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AB = +- ?

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Old Oct 30, 2001 | 09:24 AM
  #1  
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AB = +- ?

My cars original speaker wires are marked A and B. Can someone tell me which one is considered positive? Thanks, Matt
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Old Oct 30, 2001 | 11:23 AM
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
I just did this on Sunday and I can't remember already.

Take a 9-volt and touch it to the terminals. If the speaker moves out, then you've got the + side of the battery on the + side of the speaker. If it moves in, they're reversed.

I think "B" is positive.

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Old Oct 30, 2001 | 08:59 PM
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What Jim said. I woulden't use any more than a 1.5 volt battery (AA or C) on mine, it could fry the voice coil. It can also fry if you leave it on there too long so watch out. I can't help you with A or B, mine have no labels on them so I do it this way.

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Old Oct 31, 2001 | 07:31 AM
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Head unit output is somewhere between 50 and 80 volts, so a 9 volt battery shouldn't cause much trouble as long as you don't leave it there for an hour or keep doing it a million times. A 1.5 volt battery can barely move a cone so it can be tough to tell what it's doing.

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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
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Old Oct 31, 2001 | 10:14 AM
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I have a 6V gell cell I can use. Keep in mind I dont need to test my new speakers ( they are marked + & -.) I will be testing one or two of the stock speakers, and they sound like crap anyway. (overdriven by the previous owner) Thanks for the tip all, Matt
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Old Oct 31, 2001 | 10:22 AM
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By the way, test results indicate that "B" is positive. Thanks again guys.
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Old Nov 1, 2001 | 11:18 AM
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Car: 1997 Nissan 200SX SE-R
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Jim,
50 - 80 volts? I don't think so. A bigger aftermarket amp powering a sub, probably. 80 volts is quite a bit of juice (110 volts comes out of the wall).

A 1.5 or a 9 volt will work fine either way. Some guys don't like the 9 volt because if they poke around and your car has tweeters in the dash or A pillar, they might run the risk of smoking some of that if you hit the wrong wire.

Its usually pretty simple. get a 9 volt battery, get a cheap 9 volt plug in connector (like you find on an old piece of junk many of us find in the garage). Get some alligator clips, connect it to your leads, and use a flash light to determine if its in or out (so you don't have to remove some of the grilles on dashes or something like that).

Juan

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Old Nov 1, 2001 | 12:58 PM
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Yup, I botched that one up! With a 35 watt peak signal, there would be just under 12 volts output into a 4 ohm load (which is why 35 is the maximum peak wattage you can get from a deck without a dc-dc converter to raise the voltage.) I had a massive brain fart on that last post.

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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
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Old Nov 1, 2001 | 09:51 PM
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From: Bedford, Tx
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by TRVLIN99:
By the way, test results indicate that "B" is positive. Thanks again guys.</font>
gotta go switch all my wires now.

but thanks for letting us know

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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---&gt; air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series

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