Carburetors Carb discussion and questions. Upgrading your Third Gen's carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.

Qjet problems

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Old Aug 8, 2002 | 10:33 PM
  #1  
Matty377's Avatar
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From: CT
Car: '86 Camaro
Engine: LG4
Transmission: T5
Qjet problems

My qjet is giving me nothing but trouble. I really want to keep it and tune it since I've read many of the posts on this board saying it's the best for economy/performance.

So here's my problems...

1) Choke...had it sort of fixed for a while, rotated the thermostat housing and the choke slowly closed almost all the way. Today it decided it didn't want to work anymore and didn't move. One of the screw holes on the therm. housing is stripped too. I can't even get the screw out. Then the idle cam started sticking and the choke plate wouldn't open all the way when warm, which brings me to...

2) Idle cam, i sprayed carb/choke cleaner on it and it still sticks, this seems to be related to the screw in #1 not pressing the choke thermostat against the idle cam.

3) Drinks gas, not sure exactly how much mpg i'm getting but it isn't much. Maybe like 12-14 average.

4) Smells like gas under the hood after the car has warmed up

5)Occasional high idle, 90% sure this is because of #2

I'm really peeved by this thing...I'm so frustrated with it that I'm about to ditch it and put a different carb on it that I don't really want to spend the money on.

Any solutions to these problems? If I took this to a shop, how much would it run me to have these things taken care of? Probably about as much as a new carb, right?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Last edited by Matty377; Aug 8, 2002 at 11:19 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2002 | 05:36 PM
  #2  
Matty377's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: CT
Car: '86 Camaro
Engine: LG4
Transmission: T5
Anybody? ttt
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 09:02 AM
  #3  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Before you can expect something to operate right, it has to be put together right. If a screw is stripped, that's probably not the cause of all the problems, but it should be fixed. Self-tapping screws are available (typically come in rebuild kits).

Sounds like you need to pick up a rebuild kit and to go completely through it. Make sure everything is clean and nothing is binding when you put it back together. The instructions in the kit are usually pretty good, so that you can get the job done between the instructions and pictures. Kits don't come with a float, though, so you might pick one of them up when you get the kit (in case it is causing flooding).

A shop would probably charge around $300 if you took the car into them. But, at least then you would know it was right when you got it back (or you'd keep taking it back until they got it right, for no charge). Be forewarned, though - I have a co-worker who took his Mazda pickup in for a carb rebuild (wouldn't pass emissions), they estimated $300 up-front, ended up being $700. But it runs right, now.
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