lean carb (sorry but i cant find what i need)
lean carb (sorry but i cant find what i need)
well i pulled a plug today and it was white...nowi have heard thats a bad thing cause your running lean... then again i heard its perfectly fine...so i dont know what to think!! well if got a cc qjet with DR rods and a B hanger, and im getting a white plug. i was jsut about to order a MSD ignition,, but i dont wnat to have too much spark and not enough gas..i wnat a A/F ratio gauge,, but i dont need no fancy thing, so im still trying to find one of them..any help??
ohh forgot to mention,, i have a O2 sens. in my header collector. the sens. isnt even 3k miles old
ohh forgot to mention,, i have a O2 sens. in my header collector. the sens. isnt even 3k miles old
Last edited by fattie92; Aug 12, 2002 at 12:01 AM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
How does the car actually run?
Your rods & hangers will only affect the plug color if all you do is put in brand new plugs, do a WOT run, then shut the ignition off and take it out of gear WITHOUT IDLING OR ENGINE BRAKING, and pull them. It can be very difficult to read plugs this way, because so little material is deposited. For instance, the NASCAR guys will usually run a couple of practice laps on a new set of plugs to get a good read. On a street-driven carbed car, what colors the plugs is the primary system: fuel level, whether the metering well plugs leak, the primary jets & rods, the duty cycle from the ECM, the adjustment of the lean & rich stops and the IAB valve, etc. So forget about what sec hanger & rods you have, they won't have any detectable effect on your plugs, unless the secondaries are so rich that they foul the plugs immediately as soon as they open, or unless you use them 100% of the time.
If the car runs OK, then the plug color you describe is OK. On a street-driven car it often takes a long time for plug color to develop. If the plugs have less than a few hundred miles, they may not be colored at all. If they have a few thousand miles, and are completely clean-looking but not blistered, then they're probably a step too hot; get the next lower heat range next time. They should ordinarily accumulate a small amount, not a heavy deposit, of grayish or brownish ash over time.
There's no such thing as "too much spark and not enough gas"; in fact, a super-lean mixture often requires more spark to fire it, because it isn't flammable enough to light easily. There is however such a thing as "wasting money on parts that don't do any good". A MSD box on an internally stock LG4 falls into the latter category. Spend your money elsewhere, where it will make a difference; a set of headers, a high-flow cat, a cat-back, a cam, heads, synthetic lube in all the running gear, suspension work, etc.
Your rods & hangers will only affect the plug color if all you do is put in brand new plugs, do a WOT run, then shut the ignition off and take it out of gear WITHOUT IDLING OR ENGINE BRAKING, and pull them. It can be very difficult to read plugs this way, because so little material is deposited. For instance, the NASCAR guys will usually run a couple of practice laps on a new set of plugs to get a good read. On a street-driven carbed car, what colors the plugs is the primary system: fuel level, whether the metering well plugs leak, the primary jets & rods, the duty cycle from the ECM, the adjustment of the lean & rich stops and the IAB valve, etc. So forget about what sec hanger & rods you have, they won't have any detectable effect on your plugs, unless the secondaries are so rich that they foul the plugs immediately as soon as they open, or unless you use them 100% of the time.
If the car runs OK, then the plug color you describe is OK. On a street-driven car it often takes a long time for plug color to develop. If the plugs have less than a few hundred miles, they may not be colored at all. If they have a few thousand miles, and are completely clean-looking but not blistered, then they're probably a step too hot; get the next lower heat range next time. They should ordinarily accumulate a small amount, not a heavy deposit, of grayish or brownish ash over time.
There's no such thing as "too much spark and not enough gas"; in fact, a super-lean mixture often requires more spark to fire it, because it isn't flammable enough to light easily. There is however such a thing as "wasting money on parts that don't do any good". A MSD box on an internally stock LG4 falls into the latter category. Spend your money elsewhere, where it will make a difference; a set of headers, a high-flow cat, a cat-back, a cam, heads, synthetic lube in all the running gear, suspension work, etc.
sorry i forgot to post my sig with my engine. its a built 350. there is no way in hell i was gonna keep that slow LG4 in there. the car actualy runs ok when im not at the track. when im at the track it stumbles in the high rpm's and stuters aroun 4000rpm's in first and second. thats y i was gonna get the MSD cause my power band should go to 5500. the plugs wernt blistered. they IMO didnt look bad, but they did have a white dust on them and i just didnt know if it was a bad thing to throw the MSD on there like that. if im looking at my spark plug numbers, how can i tell what numbers will be colder?? and if i was running to hot, can that have a decline in performance? Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Try tightening the air valve a little bit. Sounds like it's too loose.
Looking at the specs you gave for your motor, the same advice about the MSD box still applies... you're nowhere near any kind of need for it.
There's a saying around tracks among old-timers; "80% of carb problems are ignition, and the other 20% are fuel delivery; and 90% of all ignition problems are in the carb". It's a bit of an exaggeration, but the principle is valid. Don't just throw money at a problem without understanding it first, otherwise you will only go faster by the amount your wallet is lightened.
Looking at the specs you gave for your motor, the same advice about the MSD box still applies... you're nowhere near any kind of need for it.
There's a saying around tracks among old-timers; "80% of carb problems are ignition, and the other 20% are fuel delivery; and 90% of all ignition problems are in the carb". It's a bit of an exaggeration, but the principle is valid. Don't just throw money at a problem without understanding it first, otherwise you will only go faster by the amount your wallet is lightened.
ok ill tighten it a little. i have it set to what the tech article says, and it seemed to be running better when i launch,, just not the upper RPM's. if that dont fix it then what?? i also thought the stock ignition crapes out at 4000..which is right around where my problem is...it may not be my ignition, but if i got the MSD then id be sure its something else.. but like you said id be out the cash.
Last edited by fattie92; Aug 12, 2002 at 11:32 AM.
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