Carburetors Carb discussion and questions. Upgrading your Third Gen's carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.

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Old Mar 22, 2004 | 12:51 PM
  #1  
deathsythhell's Avatar
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From: CT
Car: 1984 camaro z28, 2003 chevy astro, 1996 olds aurora
Engine: v8, 305.
Transmission: auto
Need help choosing

Ok, i'm new to the boards, and i have a big problem.
I have a 1984 z28.
It has a 305, with a carb.
I removed all the smog stuff last year, and just left it parked in my garage.
Now the guy who knew about stuff left and i'm left with a camaro with no smog stuff with a crappy carb.
I just wanna know if anyone has removed their smog stuff and put a new carb in?, and if so what carb, and what intake manifold should i get, and how many vacuems should the carb i get have?
I would be very gratefull for any help i get on this.:hail:
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Old Mar 22, 2004 | 01:44 PM
  #2  
spartyon's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,308
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From: winthrop harbor, il & plymouth, il
Car: 1986 camaro
Engine: 383 sbc
Transmission: th-400
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 10 bolt/Detroit TrueTrac 4.
manifolds: alot of people on these boards with 305s are using weiand stealths or actions plus manifolds. alot are also using the performer rpm by edelbrock

carb: why not stick with a standard qjet? you can get your rebuilt if it needs it. if you really want and aftermarket carb i would go no bigger than a 650 on a stock 305.

i dont really understand your question on how many vacuums to have. i only know of a vs carb or a mechanical secondary carb( i.e. double pumper).
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Old Mar 22, 2004 | 04:56 PM
  #3  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Re: Need help choosing

Originally posted by deathsythhell
I removed all the smog stuff last year...
Why, and what do you mean by "all"?

Now ... i'm left with a camaro with no smog stuff with a crappy carb.
Need more evidence to support that statement.

I just wanna know if anyone has removed their smog stuff ...
Only those who don't know any better - for a street car. For a race-only car, it can be justified.
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Old Mar 22, 2004 | 05:33 PM
  #4  
83_1/2 L69's Avatar
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Joined: May 2003
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From: SillyCon Valley, CA
Car: 83 Z-28 (Original owner)
Engine: 305 CC-carb
Transmission: Richmond 6-speed, Rear:3.73
FACT: When you open the throttle more then 70%, most of the smog control stuff “turns off”.
FACT: the stock carb is plenty big enough for a 305ci or larger motor. The exhaust system is major restriction on your car.

How badly was your car butchered? Is the ECM and wiring still in place? You do not need a smog pump to run the stock carb.
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Old Mar 22, 2004 | 05:53 PM
  #5  
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From: CT
Car: 1984 camaro z28, 2003 chevy astro, 1996 olds aurora
Engine: v8, 305.
Transmission: auto
not too bad

nothing electrical was removed, just the smog pump, ac, and charcoal canister.
But i remember he said something about the vacuems, so i don't know what to do, if u guys want i can take pics of stuff removed, and how the engine looks.
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 07:14 PM
  #6  
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From: CT
Car: 1984 camaro z28, 2003 chevy astro, 1996 olds aurora
Engine: v8, 305.
Transmission: auto
posted

I posted the pics, someone help
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 08:54 PM
  #7  
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From: Arkansas
Car: 85 T/A
Engine: Rebuilding
Transmission: 700R4
If people sit and argue all day long about header sizes and exhaust pipe diameter making a huge difference in flow and horsepower why is it an argument that when you put a lot of throttle most of the smog stuff turns off? If you run a good catalytic converter the smog stuff doesnt make enough of a difference in emmisions to warrant maintainence expense on the smog system(my opinion, if Im wrong show me the numbers). I put a new motor in my tranny and the smog pump had been disconnected when I got it and it was rusted so badly the pulley wouldnt turn. I couldnt see spending a bunch of money to replace all of that plus the headache of hooking it all back up. I just did away with it in the swap and made a plate to block the egr port on the intake. If you live somewhere that requires testing of emissions then by all means keep it hooked up and in a state of good repair. But why do you think I should spend all of that time and effort to keep the smog stuff going when all it does is cause the motor to run hotter and it robs the car of power and economy. My wifes cousin in chicago has emissions testing and he removed the smog stuff and passed with a high flow cat in place (z28 350 fuel injected maybe 89-90 I dont know the year for sure).

I could hardly tell there was a motor in my car with all the hoses from that crap on there. It doesnt last forever, its expensive, and most of all its not efficient. If you have to have it.... hey Im sorry tough luck. I dont and when I get my new headers and new cat I should be able to pass any sniffer in the country. Visual tests should be outlawed. If you can pass the test by the numbers its nobodys business how you did it.

five7 I have read many of your messages and respect your opinions but I do know better and it is a street car. If you want to come down and buy all the smog stuff and take the time to put it on then Ill be here to drink beer and watch. I would rather spend the money on paint/suspension/new interior/my son/my wife/millions of things. The car does not need it to function and from a lot of peoples experience it works better without it. I like the planet and recycle my trash but Im dont think Im gonna spend money on something that is not needed on the car. A good cat and keeping your car in good running condition is better than a car with smog that burns oil and runs rich , or the timing is off. whatever. Racers sure they dont need it but in many cases neither does the every day driver. I dont have any cold hard facts but if someone in chicago and many of their friends with muscle cars can pass a pretty tough sniff test then there is a pretty good chance that it is not more harmful to the environment that mom and pop in their suv. Plus I get 19 miles to the gallon on average and mom and pop in their suv dont. It comes down to choice and state laws on what you do with your smog. Dont think people uninformed because their decsision is different than yours. The smog thing is an issue where nobody can be declared right because both sides have their own cold hard facts and its hard to tell which one is right. I just have a different opinion than you do. This guy does too he isnt uninformed he just doesnt have the same rules as you do. If your mom gave you a 10 oclock curfew when you were 15 and your friend had to be in at 8 it would be like him telling you that you were stupid if you stayed out that late and didnt go in at 8 when he had too. Embrace differing opinions and discuss them.

Most of us know how to keep our cars in good running order. That is more important than any smog pump or exhaust recirculation out there. I dont think anyone should run without a cat. It (catalytic converter) is enough to keep a car in good repair from polluting mother earth. Now if we could just teach everyone to keep their car tuned right and running well....

Later,
wesdog
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 09:18 PM
  #8  
Bluebird's Avatar
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From: Rockford,IL, Unitied States
Car: 1991 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R
Re: Re: Need help choosing

[QUOTE Only those who don't know any better - for a street car. For a race-only car, it can be justified. [/B][/QUOTE]

I disagree on this one simply because I had a 1984 Transam and I removed all of the smog related components and disconnected the cable from the ECM that controls the spark advance and let the distributor operate without the ECM. After removing all of those unnecessary hoses, smog pump, vac canister etc, I not only cleared up my engine compartment where I could actually work on the car a lot easier, but I removed a lot of un-necessary weight and clutter which makes more room for air flow under the hood which is a good thing.

I think there are benefits from it if it is the route you choose to go.. when I bought my 1991 firebird, I kept all of that stuff on there. I am not sure what my plans will be when I get the new crate motor dropped in there.. but I may decide to keep all of that stuff and have a 400 - 500 hp (95+% street legal machine) hehe
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 09:40 PM
  #9  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Understanding the system should come before modifying it. How often do we see posts requesting information after?

There is a difference between those things that are necessary to operate the vehicle, and those that are there primarily to reduce emissions. A cat is an example of the latter. O2 sensor is an example of the former. But, the O2 sensor came about because of emissions, so all too often the modifier assumes that emissions = no good and not necessary.

Hence, my question about what "all" is.

I think I now understand the other stand-alone post that has pictures in it. Guess I'll have to go over and see what's in there.

Last edited by five7kid; Mar 24, 2004 at 03:23 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2004 | 09:46 PM
  #10  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Well, from what I can see w/o "joining", what may be an A.I.R. pump (can only see a hose, but looks like one that goes to the A.I.R. pump), A.I.R. diverter valve, and AC compressor.

Those fit in the "latter" catagory.
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Old Mar 24, 2004 | 03:20 PM
  #11  
Wesdog's Avatar
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From: Arkansas
Car: 85 T/A
Engine: Rebuilding
Transmission: 700R4
personally I got rid of the smog pump and plugged the pipes that came off the top of the exhaust manifolds. I also got rid of all the hoses/lines that snaked around the engine compartment. I still have the charcoal canister and cat and o2 sensor. Granted the cat is rusted out and I cut the air line to it off at the cat and plugged that. I refuse to pay 130 for a new cat when i plan to replace the whole exhaust system soon. From the headers to the exhaust tip will be all new all at once. If I bought a cat now it would not fit with the new system. I need about 5000 to get things going on this project for parts/pizza/beer anyone want to donate?

I just have to get my butt in gear and strip the car completly down and get to work. Everything needs to be replaced from the road up (motor/trans only have 5000 so I can keep them for a while).
I have a non-cc carb so If I got rid of the O2 sensor I dont guess it would make a difference. The check engine light is always on anyway because of the new carb. When I put a new hot-rod motor in it in a few years Im gonna rewire the whole shebang to make life simple.

five7 makes the best point in that we need exact specs of your vehicle since everyones is different due to prior mods/repairs. You can unhook the smog pump and all of its related hoses and plug up vacuum lines where needed and if you want make a plate to bolt over the egr valve. I dont think this is going to change anything for the worse. It may bring emissions up a little but just keep your car running its best and make sure your catalytic converter is tip-top and it should not matter.

wes
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Old Mar 24, 2004 | 03:23 PM
  #12  
Wesdog's Avatar
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From: Arkansas
Car: 85 T/A
Engine: Rebuilding
Transmission: 700R4
For the sake of your first question I have an edelbrock 1406 600cfm electric choke for my carb. Its on a 350 and the stock intake. When I get on it the thing sounds like its going to suck the car through the carb its an awesome sound kindof like a tornado/vacuum sucking sound. I believe this is due to having the stock intake and exhaust from the old LG4 that I threw out still on the car. Im betting that with a new intake exhaust it will lessen the sound. I dont have a muffler on the car and when I get on it the intake drowns out the exhaust sound (wild huh?). It is also limiting the power the motor can make. It sounds like its doing something but doesnt really feel awe inspiring. Just find something that will let the motor breathe and you should be in good shape.

I made a thread to help me find a new intake here is the link for it.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=230802

wesdog

Last edited by Wesdog; Mar 24, 2004 at 03:26 PM.
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Old Mar 24, 2004 | 10:41 PM
  #13  
deathsythhell's Avatar
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From: CT
Car: 1984 camaro z28, 2003 chevy astro, 1996 olds aurora
Engine: v8, 305.
Transmission: auto
sorry

sorry i'm new at this, and yes i noticed i put the pics on a different thread.
I was looking at the edelbrock 1406, but if i get that carb, what intake manifold should i get?.
Normally i would never rip things off a car i know nothing about.
I used to own a 1990 celica st .
But I like my camaro much better, and the guy who was working with me knew his stuff, but he left, and din't finish.
I mean the car runs good, but i feel like I need to finish up what he did cause the car is running too rich.
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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 06:36 PM
  #14  
83_1/2 L69's Avatar
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From: SillyCon Valley, CA
Car: 83 Z-28 (Original owner)
Engine: 305 CC-carb
Transmission: Richmond 6-speed, Rear:3.73
Running too rich

Make sure there are no exhaust leaks. If the O2 sensor is still working, it will richen the mixture if it sees O2 leaking into the exhaust.

If the computer is un hooked, that will also cause the carb to run fully rich.
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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 09:39 PM
  #15  
deathsythhell's Avatar
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From: CT
Car: 1984 camaro z28, 2003 chevy astro, 1996 olds aurora
Engine: v8, 305.
Transmission: auto
oh

but will this happen even after i change the carb?
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