Electric or Mechanical pump
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Car: 1989 Firebird
Engine: Custom 355 V8
Transmission: TH-350 with 3000 converter
Electric or Mechanical pump
Hey guys. Im doing a 2.8L V6 efi to a 355 carb swap and i was wondering if I am better off to use the stock electric in tank fuel pump and use a fuel pressure regulator, or to remove the electric pump and use a mechanical pump. Also, my engine was computer controlled and I no longer have it in my car and I need to know if it controlled the fuel pump or was the fuel pump controlled by something else. Thanks for helping.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: South Brunswick, NJ
Car: 88 GTA, 92 Formula
Engine: 355, LB9
Transmission: WC T-5, WC T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.27 LT1 Rear
You might want to remove that fuel pump and replace it with a lower pressure pump, like one for a TBI setup. Definately stay with electronic, the car will run better at high rpms.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 896
Likes: 1
From: Coquitlam, BC
Car: 86\92 Mutant
Engine: 355CI 430HP
Transmission: T-5 with mods
Axle/Gears: 7.625", Eaton Posi, 3.73
And I'll go the other direction. Scrap the intank pump...remove it entirely and braze an extension onto pickup tube. Then install a Mechanical pump, like a Carter M6900 .
No regulator to plumb or purchase.
Higher RPM with an Electric pump? Hog Wash.... Nextel Cup cars run to 9,000 RPM with Mechanical pumps.
My Hillclimb car revs quite nicely to 7,000 with a Carter Mechanical pump.
Only requirements of a fuel pump are that it supplies enough volume and pressure in a consistant manner. Electric or mechanical doesn't matter. Either will do the job. Mechanicals a bit cheaper tough.
No regulator to plumb or purchase.
Higher RPM with an Electric pump? Hog Wash.... Nextel Cup cars run to 9,000 RPM with Mechanical pumps.
My Hillclimb car revs quite nicely to 7,000 with a Carter Mechanical pump.
Only requirements of a fuel pump are that it supplies enough volume and pressure in a consistant manner. Electric or mechanical doesn't matter. Either will do the job. Mechanicals a bit cheaper tough.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,067
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From: Staunton,illinois
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
i would have to agree with Chickenman35 id go with a mechanical pump and ditch the electric one...one of the things your gonna have to do is pull the tank and pull the pump and do as chickenman35 said with the pickup then run a fuel line on the passenger side of the car to plumb up to the fuel pump easier and we just did this on my brothers car the holes for the clips are already on the passenger side all you have to do is remove the feed like from the drivers side and move it to the passenger side a little massageing needs to be done to it but if you go slow you wont crimp it at all ive done it more than once on these cars then just run a little rubber hose from the feed line on the pickup comming out of the pump and a filter before and after the pump is a must in my book so you dont pull anything thru the pump and then one after incase something does make it thru (something very small) then just route it around the exhaust and your ready to go ....
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Well, I'll offer another "opinion":
Use both.
A pusher electric in the tank with a mechanical at the engine, with a regulator with a return before the carb. Or, instead of the reg use a factory style V8 mechanical at the engine which incorporates the return (relief valve rather than regulator).
The electric/mechanical is what the factory used the last year of carbs. It's also what many racers had done for years before that.
Use both.
A pusher electric in the tank with a mechanical at the engine, with a regulator with a return before the carb. Or, instead of the reg use a factory style V8 mechanical at the engine which incorporates the return (relief valve rather than regulator).
The electric/mechanical is what the factory used the last year of carbs. It's also what many racers had done for years before that.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
Likes: 4
From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
electric or electric/mechanical.
couple reasons... one, if the fuel lines/bowls are empty, the electric will fill them without cranking the motor alot.
less chance of vapor lock... you dont get vapor lock because the unused fuel is constantly being returned to the tank.. the fuel stays cool this way.
theres nothing wrong with mechanical pumps, but i prefer electric for my street cars.... mostly for thoes two reasons above.
couple reasons... one, if the fuel lines/bowls are empty, the electric will fill them without cranking the motor alot.
less chance of vapor lock... you dont get vapor lock because the unused fuel is constantly being returned to the tank.. the fuel stays cool this way.
theres nothing wrong with mechanical pumps, but i prefer electric for my street cars.... mostly for thoes two reasons above.
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