Okay heres what i had a stock 305 tbi with a 700-r4 stock converter and 2.73 gears. now i got

MOTOR.
97 LT1 cam and 416 305 H.O. heads portedmildly and 3angle valve job and polished and 1.94/1.60valves/and spreadbore intake stock factory one with blocked egr port and a edelbrock600cfmcarb and the timming is at like 13and a half to 14advanced.with HEI distributor/


DRIVETERAIN
2.73's open rearend stock converter stock tranny 700r4/


what i want to now is what i should do next to the car only pulls from about 3k and up if but then my fuel pump dies sometimes at like 4or sometimes 5k and sometimes it wont die.what type of fuel pump should i get a mechnecal or eletric/also what gears do you recomend.
i jus wanna be in the low 14's or if possible 13's intill i get my 383/ oh yeah the car isnt going to be used for dail driveing so gas mileage isnt a problem i got a lil rustang beater. 4banger baby.

 

You need a converter that stalls at 3000 RPMs. Then, when you nail it, it'll be in the powerband already.

Assuming you have a stock fuel pump, either get an upgrade pump (aftermarket or TPI), assuming you have an adjustable regulator; or take out the in-tank electric pump and put a mechanical on the engine (although I don't recall off the top of my head if the LT1 cam has a fuel pump lobe).

Gears - if you get anything higher numerically than 2.73, you're going to want posi. 3.42 or 3.73 would do nicely, I'd think.

 

If you have the stock in tanks tbi pump it should work fine for your combo aslong as your using a bypass style regulator. There maybe a prob. with your pump. Also the lt1 cam doesnt have the lobe for the mech. fuel pump pushrod. First I would get a performer rpm intake that stocker is killing performence for sure. I also assume you have a full exhaust with headers and high flow or no cat right? I would recommend 3.42 gears or higher aswell, you dont really need a stall but that would give you some extra go, but really with that mild of a cam I wouldnt get an aftermarket one as long as you have some shorter gears.You should defenetly be able to go low 14's with what I mentioned and a good tune. First find out what is wrong with your fuel pump because my tbi pump pulls about 6psi easy up to 5500 rpms with my mild 350. Good luck.

 

i have the stock 2 1/4 tail pipe which is ****ty as hell also how long do head gaskets take to seat and do i have to retorque them kuz lately when i floor it they been getting kind of smokey.

 

head gaskets don't "seat" . they either seal up, or they don't. If you want to retorque the head bolts go ahead.
Unless you're loosing water the smokey exhaust is probabily not, head gaskets.

 

it only seems to do it at top end alot but latley it started to do it more and more lower rpm like around 2k or 3k
ill notice it
/

also what heads gaskets do you recomend for cast iron heads and block of course.and should i use anything else on the gaskets or bolts?

 

If you can't break the 2.73's loose with an open differential, you are underpowered. Learn how to tune the engine properly then go from there. The smoke on acceleration is a hint to this or a problem with the engine...hope it is a tuning issue.

3.42 to 3.73 posi rearends (depending on your engine) seem to do well in these cars. The stall converter will help, but be sure the engine is tuned properly first prior to choosing, and remember that a stall rating is generic...your engine will determine the actual stall of the converter.

 

found out my head gaskets werte up side down so yeah thats why i was seeing smoke coming out of the motor.so i got the fel pro gaskets (blueones) and got it all done have to but the motor at TDC then do the timming at about 13 advanced with va unplugged. also gonna have the fix that fuel pump issue it dies sometimes at around 4500-6k and sometimes it wont.what intake do u guys recomend i got an edelbrock 600 cfm carb.