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secondaries not opening

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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 05:18 PM
  #1  
curtis84ta's Avatar
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From: Ontario
Car: 1984 pontiac trans am
Engine: Block #14010209...350...80-85
Transmission: 700 R4
secondaries not opening

i have a q-jet from a 305 on my 350 now and the secondaries are not opening at WOT. is there something to check to see if they work or is there a carb diagram i can look at to see if everythings correct or what not. any help would be appreciated
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 05:51 PM
  #2  
Petes 84Z28's Avatar
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From: out of my mind; be back in 5 minutes....
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
How are you verifying that they are not opening?
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 06:33 PM
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curtis84ta's Avatar
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From: Ontario
Car: 1984 pontiac trans am
Engine: Block #14010209...350...80-85
Transmission: 700 R4
actually never mind i read somwhere where the car needs to be under a load. so they probably are opening up.
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Old Sep 25, 2004 | 08:03 PM
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From: Kenosha, Wisconsin
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4, 2500 stall, shift kit.
Axle/Gears: 85' iroc open diff w/3.08 gears
No, no never mind. you cna tell if your secondaries are opening is 1. open the hood, 2. remove your air cleaner. 3. start the car with the door open and start reving the engine. if you hang out of the car, you can see the secondaries open.
now, to adjust them..
on the air valve, behind the vaccum secondary linkage, there is a little flat head screw. that little screw adjusts the spring load that the secondaries have to overcome. that's how they open up at a certain rpm. to adjust that screw, you have to flip the carb over and loosen a really small torx screw. replace the carb, and loosen the flat-head screw untill the secondaries flop all the way open. now turn the screw untill they just close under their own power. this is considered zero tension. test the car a little, then tighten the screw untill all the bog goes away.. voila...
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Old Sep 25, 2004 | 08:10 PM
  #5  
cusz28's Avatar
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From: Kenosha, Wisconsin
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4, 2500 stall, shift kit.
Axle/Gears: 85' iroc open diff w/3.08 gears
I forgot to add something. after you are done with the secondaries tuning, you can unplug and cap off the vaccum line to the vaccum secondary actuator, you won't need it anymore.
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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 10:32 AM
  #6  
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I'm afraid your advice is not good. Especially for a 305, but still not healthy for the typical street 350. The originator had already discovered the truth - If those AV open blipping the throttle in the driveway, you can be sure it will bog on the street. A q-jet is too big for a mild 350, let alone a 305, and really has to be under load in order to require the AV opening.

Disconnecting the choke pull-off is also a very poor idea. If you try to adjust the AV with only the spring tension, it will either open too quickly at first, or it will open too slowly. The two should be tuned to work together.

You don't need to remove the carb to make an AV adjustment. 1/4" drive Torx bits are available, you don't have to settle for a Torx screwdriver.

The only q-jet I've ever seen that ran properly on the car and would open the AV when blipping the throttle was on a '67 Nova 327 F/SA car that runs low 12's at our altitute. You can be sure that carb has very little in common with the typical TGO q-jet.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 05:52 PM
  #7  
cusz28's Avatar
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From: Kenosha, Wisconsin
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4, 2500 stall, shift kit.
Axle/Gears: 85' iroc open diff w/3.08 gears
five7kid, I know where your coming from with the "not good"part of your post. Yet be reminded that you need to test your car and tune the "spring only" a.v. so it doesn't bog. And as for the visual a.v. check with the hood open, that's just to verify that the a.v. works... just read the post again (or better yet, others' posts).
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 07:43 PM
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five7kid, I know where your coming from with the "not good"part of your post. Yet be reminded that you need to test your car and tune the "spring only" a.v. so it doesn't bog. And as for the visual a.v. check with the hood open, that's just to verify that the a.v. works... just read the post again (or better yet, others' posts).
Maybe you should read more posts than you have, because Five-7 is one of the best people around with a Quadrajet. He is right, and you are definately not. Have you ever adjusted a carb? Why would you hang out the door? You can actuate the throttle from under the hood via the linkage at the carb. But then again, judging from your quick wit, your previous post, and your age listed in your profile, I doubt you have seen as many Qjets as guys like five7 have tinkered on.
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Old Oct 2, 2004 | 11:16 PM
  #9  
RICHRAD's Avatar
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From: kentucky
hey 5 -7, Should the secondary av open on a chassis dyno? Gonna have it on the dyno soon ....
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Old Oct 2, 2004 | 11:19 PM
  #10  
THEGENERAL's Avatar
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From: Staunton,illinois
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
look above at the posts and it says it ....

as long as the car is under a load it should open just fine especially on a dyno
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Old Oct 3, 2004 | 06:50 PM
  #11  
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From: OKC Oklahoma
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: L69 305 HO
Transmission: 5 speed manual
Axle/Gears: Auburn pro yukon 3.73 gears and axl
Originally posted by RICHRAD
hey 5 -7, Should the secondary av open on a chassis dyno? Gonna have it on the dyno soon ....
Mine did not.........it was obstructed by thermac vac hose.Check my sig and see the cure lol
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