I currently have a Super Ram TPI setup, however, I will be switching to a carb setup over the winter and I don't really know exactly what I will need. I have the intake manifold already (Edelbrock Performer RPM) but I don't know what size carb to purchase, nor do I know if I will be able to use my in-tank fuel pump that is stock (85 Z28). I'm sure there are going to be some other little odd parts that I will need as well. Any help?

 

You can use your in tank pump, you just need a 3 port regulator. Mallory I believe makes the one that most people use. You will need a non-CC distributor. It's commonly referred to as an HEI distributor. You can pick them up from summit or jegs for a decent price. Right now I believe on the back cover of the jegs christmas catalog they have one for 99 bucks. Hell of a deal. You can also junkyard it for one. I have done it before, just give it a thorough lookover and makes sure its all OK. I see you are running a 383, so you probably wont want a stock ignition. If you went junkyard, you would need a new module, coil, cap, rotor, etc. Your best bet is probably a new one. As for a carb, its a wide world. A lot of it depends on your combo. A wild *** guess? For a nicely built 383 I would say a 750 of your flavor (Holley, demon, edelbrock, rochester, etc.). If you follow the commonly accepted formula of VE = (displacement x rpm)/3,456
you can get a ballpark figure. Allowing a 383 @ 6500 RPMs, you would need a 720, so in essence a 750. However, this equation assumes 100% Volumetric efficiency, something you really wont see. Most engines achieve around 85%. So you could probably do fine with a 700cfm carb.

 

Now I also have a 700-R4 tranny that in computer controlled. Can I still use this or will I need to switch something? I saw a kit in jegs for a 700-R4 that switches it to non-lockup or something, would this be what I need?

 

The trans isnt computer controlled, the lockup converter is. You can buy a kit from summit/jegs/PAW or wherever that allows you use of the lockup converter. You can also do it yourself for about a 1/10 of the price. Just do a search on these boards for Lock-up converter or "carb swap Lock-up" you will find it easy. There are many threads dealing with it. Its not very hard to do either.

 

What exactly is a lockup converter

 

Simply put a lockup converter is a torque converter. Its just a type of converter. It "locks" and provides better economy. Running without a lockup converter is kind of a no-no. Another one of the reasons I dont care for 700R4s. But its easily circumvented.

 

Will a different tranny bolt up to my setup. The console shifter and everything is stock and if so what tranny would be the best to put in. I would like to have overdrive though cause I do drive on the highway a bit.

 

\I did this this past summer and went witha SBC 350 with 882 heads mild porting and 1.6 rockers- the only thing I see left out is that you will have to wire up the heater controls differently as the hot wire runs through the TPI system, at least mine did and it was a 1987 TA WS6. B&G makes a regulator that will reduce your fuel pressure enough to let your carb live!!!!!!!!!

later and
GB

PM me if you have any futher questions

later

RK

 

If u want to stay with overdrive your only real options are the 700r4 or like a 4l60 trans which the 4l60 would be stonger. Most of the later transmisson are electronically shifted anything with an E at the end of the title. I would stay with the 700r4 until it broke then i would decide. A turbo400 is strong but u give up overdrive.

 

You do if you overdrive it. Check out www.gearvendors.com for details.

However, the 700R4 is a nice transmission. 3.06 first gear and a good overdrive. Call Summit as suggested above, see what they recommend. I think there are also kits to maintain your lock up for retrofitting this transmission into older cars that never had it.
You might also try TPIS. I'm not sure what they have, but they may dabble in that too.

The lock up feature in the torque converter simply locks up the coupling between the engine and transmission to stop it from slipping. Torque converters are supposed to slip, it is part of their design. The amount of slippage can be tailored to allow your car to launch at an rpm closer to your torque peak. The stock torque converter can be modified to stall at about 2200 to 2400 rpm and still maintain its lock up feature.

The lock up is supposed to boost fuel economy on highway cruising by as much as 2 mpg. But it won't hurt your transmission at all by disabling it. That's probably what most of the muscle car guys do when they install this overdrive automatic in their older cars.