Cold start stall??
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Cinnaminson, NJ
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: Carbed 5.7
Transmission: TKO-600
Cold start stall??
Hey guys I got this problem when I first start up my car, its got a 750 double pumper on it and I'll put it to the floor once then hi tht ekey and it fires rigth up then i pull the choke cable and it just stalls back out unless i keep reving it, even if i bring it up to like 15 with my foot and hold it it will die slowly if I don;t rev it, It does it for a good min. be4 it will hold idle. It is a little lean but I don;t get it, I have #76 jets in the primary and 82's in the back with a 35 squirter in the front and a 37 in the back... Thanks for anything you guys can figure out...
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Re: Cold start stall??
Originally posted by 89formula#1
then i pull the choke cable and it just stalls back out unless i keep reving it,
then i pull the choke cable and it just stalls back out unless i keep reving it,
Is the "fast idle" linkage adjusted right. It should open the throttle some, as the choke closes.
Probabily getting some momentary carb icing on the throttle blades causeing the stalling. ( blocks off all air flow past the partially open throttles.)
Try adding 5% (vol) methanol to your fuel. Metholhydrate
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Cinnaminson, NJ
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: Carbed 5.7
Transmission: TKO-600
I don't even have to use the choke and it does it.. It didn't do it with the edelcrap that was on there so I dunno..
You should start it with the choke fully closed and then pop the choke open a little bit once it fires. You'll have to "play with it" some before you get the hang of it.
Also, the choke has a fast idle cam connected to it that should raise the idle more and more the further closed the choke is. The two work together to keep it idling when it's cold. The adjustment for the fast idle is a little screw on the pass. side of the carb near the choke linkage. The head of the screw is a hex-head with a slot for a regular screwdriver and it points down and to the rear of the carb- not easy to get a screwdriver on with the carb installed on the engine.
Also, the choke has a fast idle cam connected to it that should raise the idle more and more the further closed the choke is. The two work together to keep it idling when it's cold. The adjustment for the fast idle is a little screw on the pass. side of the carb near the choke linkage. The head of the screw is a hex-head with a slot for a regular screwdriver and it points down and to the rear of the carb- not easy to get a screwdriver on with the carb installed on the engine.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,537
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From: Cinnaminson, NJ
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: Carbed 5.7
Transmission: TKO-600
THe idle was always to chopy when I used the butterfly part of the choke so Im just useing the fast idle cam now.. Shouldn't it work the same ???
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
No.
A cold engine requires a richer mixture, which is what the choke butterfly provides. Carbs have had a choke butterfly and fast idle cam for decades because they work better with both.
A cold engine requires a richer mixture, which is what the choke butterfly provides. Carbs have had a choke butterfly and fast idle cam for decades because they work better with both.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
I suggest an electric choke conversion. My 3310 (750 VS) had a manual choke for awhile... what a nightmare that was. I got an electric choke conversion from Holley, and it was worth every penny, and then some! Fires on the first crank, idles around 1200 from stone cold, and warms up smoothly, and drops to about 750 rpm when warm. Its great! No f***ing around with the choke cable or anything is very nice too... just hop in, tap the throttle to snap the choke shut and give it a little shot of fuel, and fire it up!
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: missouri
Car: 91 Camaro RS 383
Engine: carbed 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Im still messing with my electric choke. My old carb had a manual choke and I agree with Adam... what a pain. Now I just have to get my electrick choke to work. I have two different rods and have to see if the other one works better
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 420
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From: missouri
Car: 91 Camaro RS 383
Engine: carbed 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
There are two different types of rods that go from the choke butterfly plate thing down to the choke mechanism. Right now i have the one from the manual choke on which is different from the electric choke. Now my electric choke wont close it just stays open when sitting.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
Likes: 1
From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Originally posted by BAD91CamaroRS
There are two different types of rods that go from the choke butterfly plate thing down to the choke mechanism. Right now i have the one from the manual choke on which is different from the electric choke. Now my electric choke wont close it just stays open when sitting.
There are two different types of rods that go from the choke butterfly plate thing down to the choke mechanism. Right now i have the one from the manual choke on which is different from the electric choke. Now my electric choke wont close it just stays open when sitting.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 361
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From: Huntington, West Virginia
Car: 1985 Camaro Z/28
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: One-Wheel-WOnder 3.08
You just have to get a feel for the maual choke. It took me a week or two to get used to mine. I converted to electric choke just because someone gave me a free conversion kit. I was happy with the manual choke...just play around with it. To start: pull the choke closed and press the gas pedal once or twice. Then crank the engine and once it fires up it will run kinda rough, open the choke a little bit and and engine will start to run a little smoother(there was a "sweet spot" on my choke, you just need to find your's. Once the engine has warmed up, open up the choke all the way.
If you are still having trouble after you've practiced for a while, just get the electric choke kit.
If you are still having trouble after you've practiced for a while, just get the electric choke kit.
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