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I cant get the fuel filter out...

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Old 02-26-2005, 01:15 AM
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
I cant get the fuel filter out...

Ok, I have tried everything. I cant get the fuel line off to change the filter. I can unscrew it from the carb just fine, but it twists the line. I cant get the smaller nut to loosen, no matter what I do. I dont really want to weld a wrench to the nut, because I dont want to blow myself up, but it may come to that. Has anyone had trouble with this before? Any ideas on what to do? The nut is starting to round off, too. From all the slipping wrenches.
Old 02-26-2005, 01:21 AM
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
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Are you using a flare wrench?
Old 02-26-2005, 01:23 AM
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Can you clarify that for me? (q-jet right?)

There are two "nuts" to loosen, the 1 1/8" or whatever that's on the carb, then the 5/8" that's on the line.

So the line one is stuck into the carb base nut? can you turn the big one on the carb? (then you'd be able to get the filter out right?
If the outer one is stuck, of course you can try using a line wrench, just to get more of the wrench on the nut... if you have one that is...
Soaking it in WD-40?
Yea, kinda depends on which nut is stuck... but either way, I sure wouldn't want to be welding anything there
Old 02-26-2005, 07:35 AM
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Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
Hold the large nut with a wrench, and unfortunately get out the vise grips if a line wrench won't work. WD-40 is a good idea to loosen it up first.
Old 02-26-2005, 03:49 PM
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
Yeah, I tried that.

It's the small nut that wont loosen. The big one will, and I tried to just unscrew it like that, but because the smaller one is still tight it just twists the fuel line. And yeah, it's a qjet. Non cc if it matters.

I even soaked it in wd40 and used vice grips, and even THOSE slipped..

(and sorry for the late reply, I made this post just before I had to go to work.)

It occurred to me this morning that I could use some of that cold weld stuff to try to bond the wrench to the nut...
Old 02-26-2005, 04:03 PM
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Car: 82 firebird s/e 83 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L 305ci 4b carb.....CFI
Transmission: TH200C....700R4
What kind of vice grips you use?are the teeth worn out?
Old 02-26-2005, 04:50 PM
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Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
If you can't get it off with good vice grips, time to get a new motor.

Seriously, if you can't get it apart, you will need to cut fuel line by nut, remove filter housing, and run a new fuel line from pump to carb

...or say screw it and keep driving with old filter
Old 02-26-2005, 05:02 PM
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lol well the ones I was using are my shop's. and yeah they're sort of worn out. I guess I may have to spring for new ones, because I dont really want to replace that fuel line.

And I did say screw it and keep driving, but now my engine is doing funy things. Things that engines usually do when you dont replace the filter.
Old 02-27-2005, 10:49 AM
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Originally posted by Lo-tec
If you can't get it off with good vice grips, time to get a new motor.

Seriously, if you can't get it apart, you will need to cut fuel line by nut, remove filter housing, and run a new fuel line from pump to carb

...or say screw it and keep driving with old filter
I can argue that there is no such thing as a "good" pair of Vice-Grips, new or not. If you have already destroyed the flats of the flare nut, get a pair of Chan-Nel-Lock 410G pliers on it and finish the job. Vice-Grips wouldn't grab as well as the 410's in their wildest wet dream. Throw all the rest of your Vice-Grips in your welding clamp drawer, since that is the one thing that they are very good for.

I'll retract that - I DO have a pair with the bar jaws that are very good for pinching hoses shut.

Also, there are better penetrants than WD-40 (it's intended to be a rust preventive, not a penetrating oil).

Another option is to simply cut the line to remove the filter, then install a section of fuel hose to close it back up. We're only talking about 5-7 PSI of fuel pressure.

After you're all finished, and whether you cut the line and hosed it or replace the steel tubing with a new section, you'll appreciate the need for anti-seize compound on your fittings and connections between dissimilar metals.
Old 02-27-2005, 02:56 PM
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Transmission: TH200C....700R4
Originally posted by Vader
I can argue that there is no such thing as a "good" pair of Vice-Grips, new or not. If you have already destroyed the flats of the flare nut, get a pair of Chan-Nel-Lock 410G pliers on it and finish the job. Vice-Grips wouldn't grab as well as the 410's in their wildest wet dream. Throw all the rest of your Vice-Grips in your welding clamp drawer, since that is the one thing that they are very good for.

I'll retract that - I DO have a pair with the bar jaws that are very good for pinching hoses shut.

Also, there are better penetrants than WD-40 (it's intended to be a rust preventive, not a penetrating oil).

Another option is to simply cut the line to remove the filter, then install a section of fuel hose to close it back up. We're only talking about 5-7 PSI of fuel pressure.

After you're all finished, and whether you cut the line and hosed it or replace the steel tubing with a new section, you'll appreciate the need for anti-seize compound on your fittings and connections between dissimilar metals.

Not to add fuel to the fire,But when my oil drain plug was sealed shut,I tried my hardest to get it loose with some 410s.Even my uncle who benches close to 400 pounds tried his hardest.Eventually the drain plug became round I then came to the conclusion that Im f*****.So then my Dad came with some killer vice grips ,got an excellent grip with them on the plug.Then he put a 3 foot ridged pipe over the vise grip handles,and boom.The drain plug came right loose.So Im not gonna throw them in my welding drawer just yet.

Oh,and PB blaster works good as a loosener.
Old 02-27-2005, 04:24 PM
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Are you certain that you were using the curved jaw, slef-gripping, double lock channel 410s, or just a standard pair of Channellock pump pliers? I've NEVER had the 410s slip on anything that was under 62 Rc hardness. I've actually won a bet or two on whether I could remove a stud with the pliers.
Old 02-27-2005, 04:46 PM
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Car: 82 firebird s/e 83 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L 305ci 4b carb.....CFI
Transmission: TH200C....700R4
We used all kinds of slip joint wrenches.Even the 410s.
Heres the 442s and and 420s but unfortanantly I cant post a pic of my 410s or my killer klein slip joint wrenches because they were stolen by some dude at a job site a while back
Attached Thumbnails I cant get the fuel filter out...-c-documents-settings-rico  

Last edited by 82knightrider; 02-27-2005 at 04:49 PM.
Old 02-27-2005, 05:08 PM
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
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Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
Maybe I'll try these:

Or just the regular ones with the teeth? Hmm.
Old 03-01-2005, 10:17 AM
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I've always thought putting the fuel filter inside the carb was one of the stupidest things that GM did. My friend had the exact same problem on his. He tried to get it with Vise Grips AND 410's but niether worked and he rounded the nut off . We ended up cutting the fuel line about 3 inches away from the nut, then we unscrewed the nut that would turn. Once we got the filter out, we screwed the line back in without the filter, put the line back together with some hose, and installed a new fuel filter in-line in front of the fuel pump. This setup is alot easier to work with than having to work with that rounded-down nut again. Hope this helps.
Old 03-05-2005, 04:30 PM
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Ok, I got it off today. Brand new vicegrips, lots of penetrating oil, a piece of pipe on the vicegrips, and me sitting on the engine finally got it to come loose. And man, did that filter need to be changed. Nasty.

Thanks for all the help guys.
Old 03-05-2005, 06:29 PM
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does it run better now?
Old 03-05-2005, 10:32 PM
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I actually havent driven it yet. It's sitting right now, as I do a minor interior resto and some engine work. But combined with the new plugs I put in it today, it sure did idle better. Started better too.


And the plugs, well those are another story. The driver side bank were find. A little grey-brown like they should be. Just fine. The ones on the passenger side were black with carbon, had oil on the threads, and the last one was a tad wet. But I havent replaced the valve seals on that bank yet... And the plugs were SUPER old...
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