Low Idle
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Gray, GA
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 6.0L LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Low Idle
I was just wondering. My '86 seems to me to idle at a low RPM. It idles at 500 RPM which to me seems kind of low. When the car hasn't been running a while and I stop somewhere it feels and sounds like it's choking and about to cut off. I'm just wondering what you guys think a good idle is and how I can set it back up (It used to be higher but my step dad did something and now it stays at 500)
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
500 RPMs warmed up in drive is the factory spec for an LG4.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: socal
Car: 91 z28
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
adjust the carburetor to make it to a higher rpm at idle . Theirs a fast idle screw on the side of the carburetor.
Last edited by camaro86; Mar 31, 2005 at 06:39 PM.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
That's a little low, I thought 700RPM was the spec? but hey, i'd trust 57 before me.... The only reason it'd be TOO LOW, is if you have a standard and are stalling it a lot (that's why I have a 1000RPM idle
)
but also, the fast idle screw is on the left side, that'd be for when the car is cold. You'd want to adjust the curb idle, right side. (when looking towards the back of the car)
the choking might be because the idle is too low, and the timing isn't support it, so it's trying to stall? you could try a 700RPM idle, couldn't really hurt...
but also, the fast idle screw is on the left side, that'd be for when the car is cold. You'd want to adjust the curb idle, right side. (when looking towards the back of the car)
the choking might be because the idle is too low, and the timing isn't support it, so it's trying to stall? you could try a 700RPM idle, couldn't really hurt...
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
If you're stalling in a standard, I'd be practicing my driving before turning up the idle.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
yea yea, I know. 
The idle was stuck higher at the beginning,(when I bought the car) and when I turned it down it was a little harder to drive (i'm still learning), so I needed all the help I could get. now it's a vacuum leak or something, but a realiable idle below 900RPM is hard to get... I'm still working on that though...

The idle was stuck higher at the beginning,(when I bought the car) and when I turned it down it was a little harder to drive (i'm still learning), so I needed all the help I could get. now it's a vacuum leak or something, but a realiable idle below 900RPM is hard to get... I'm still working on that though...
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 21
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From: Maryland
Car: 1987 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 305 4bbl LG4
Transmission: 5 Speed
I set my LG4 warm idle to 900 - 1,000rpm. You are right, at 500 rpm, it is basically choking itself. when it is cold it idles between 1,500 and 2,000rpm(because of pumping the gas 3 times to get it to start), but once it warms up it is back to 1,000 rpm.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Originally posted by IROCZ87MD
when it is cold it idles between 1,500 and 2,000rpm(because of pumping the gas 3 times to get it to start)
when it is cold it idles between 1,500 and 2,000rpm(because of pumping the gas 3 times to get it to start)
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