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Qjet Problem, Naturally

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Old May 1, 2005 | 07:55 AM
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Qjet Problem, Naturally

I've experience hard starts for a while. In cleaning the linkages and generally checking things out, I discovered that the pull-off was shot. I replaced it, and the car started with the turn of the key--though the flap was open probably double the 3/16 or so that Damon mentions as normal. I kicked it down so that it idled at around 1400. Within a couple of minutes the idle fell to 700. The problem? I drove around for a half hour or so and noticed that the idle was sticking at about 1100, but that I could kick it down to 700. Advice?

Humm, well, I put a second spring on the accelerator lever and that seems to have put a Band-Aid on the problem--but what's the cause?

JamesC

Last edited by JamesC; May 1, 2005 at 12:01 PM.
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Old May 1, 2005 | 01:47 PM
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Sticking linkage or worn throttle shafts maybe.
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Old May 3, 2005 | 02:11 PM
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
My solution for the same problem was my secondary tang was bent... When the throttle blades closed, it wouldn't be able to close the secondaries all the way... all the time...

If it sticks at higher idle after going into secondaries, could be the cause... Open your hood and pull the secondary throttle shaft closed, if it simply drops to 700RPM then that might be it... -J
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Old May 6, 2005 | 02:02 AM
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From: Philly, PA
Also make sure that the choke is opening fully when the engine is warmed up. If it's on, even slightly, it will stay on the last step of the fast idle cam and give you a high idle.

Usual cluprits are that you accidentally knocked off the plug on the side of the choke element, that you're not getting a full 12V+ to the choke element while the motor is running (check voltage there with a multi-meter with the connection still plugged on so you can see the voltage while it's under the actual electrical load of the choke element), or that the choke element itself is shot.
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Old May 6, 2005 | 07:37 AM
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
The choke is fully opening when hot; the plug is in place; and the choke is getting 12v when the key is on--didn't try it with the car running.

Currently, I'm not getting the high idle I used to (1800-2000 range). The car will run at, I guess, the intermediate idle (1200-1400). After I've driven a few blocks, the idle will drop to perhaps 500. After a couple more blocks, I feel a surge (could the choke thermostat be finally kicking in?) and the idle returns to its normal 700.

JamesC
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Old May 6, 2005 | 01:15 PM
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Originally posted by JamesC
Currently, I'm not getting the high idle I used to (1800-2000 range). The car will run at, I guess, the intermediate idle (1200-1400). After I've driven a few blocks, the idle will drop to perhaps 500. After a couple more blocks, I feel a surge (could the choke thermostat be finally kicking in?) and the idle returns to its normal 700.
Your choke could be opening too soon, and you're running a bit lean until it fully warms up.
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Old May 6, 2005 | 01:35 PM
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
If that's an adjustment to the choke thermo, which way would I turn the housing, CW or CCW?

JamesC
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Old May 6, 2005 | 03:55 PM
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Whatever direction tends to close the choke instead of opening it.
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