I have a non-CC q-jet that runs VERY rich at idle (I can choke on the fumes out the tailpipe).

I have checked for vacuum leaks (No idea if it was related, but it was for piece of mind) and there are none.

I assume my next step should be checking the idle mixture screws with a vacuum gauge and make sure they're at the right spot?

The carb was rebuilt by a mechanic - and right after the rebuild my mileage dropped from 10KM/L to 7KM/L. Other issues were fixed, and the mileage/rough running at idle are the last issues. Seems to smooth out as you get on it, however at idle in drive the engine shakes.

What do you guys suggest?


As well, if I need to adjust the idle mixture screws, what is the name of that tool I need (Looks like it has a D shaped end?)?

 

The tool is more like a double 'D' (two flats) and is available in a set with other pieces you may or may not need. Many specialty tool suppliers offer versions of the tool, including Lisle, OTC, Kent-Moore, and probably Snap-Off, Mac, and others that relabel specialty tools.

Your rich condition may be something as simple as float level, inlet needle/seat problems, or leaking main well plugs. Adjusting the primary mixture is a good start, and if you can solve it that way, it's easier.

 

At the advice of a user on another board, to eliminate the probability of an internal leak he said to turn the mixture screws all the way in and see if the motor dies - which it did.

So would that eliminate the main well plugs from leaking?

As well, do you happen to have a URL to describe setting the float (And I think I need another special tool for measuring right?)

 

KM/L ? whoa, that's strange...

anyway, the double d tool is sold at NAPA as a carb adjusting tool, $20, or better, go to Princess auto (I think there's one in edmonton), and get one for $5.
Use your vacuum gauge, start the screws at 2 turns out say, and turn them out 1/2 turn at a time, checking MANIFOLD vacuum as you go (ported won't give you much...)
make sure left and right are matched.
checking your float level is with a tool that would be in your rebuild kit, but since your mechanic did it... You basically need a measuring tape, but preferably slightly more accurate, the one in the kit is about 3" long, L shaped, made of paper and came in the rebuild kit ($35 at C-tire)
you take off the air horn, remove the carb from car, and push down on the needle, ( 1/2" towards the front of the car, from the pivot point of the float), and measure from the top of the float, to the top of the float bowl. (I tip my carb upside down, since pressing down "lightly" on the needle is so hard to quantify.... gravity works well).

Look up any threads i've started in the carb boards, they should help you, I had to do the same thing in the spring, and I probably mentioned a few stores worth going to (since in canada it's slightly different