CC Carb to Non-CC Carb
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From: Woodstock, GA
Car: 1987 Trans Am
CC Carb to Non-CC Carb
I have most of the swap done (87 TA), but had some wiring questions. This car has the dual connector coil, and I am swapping to the internal coil style, large cap HEI. The wires going to the coil are pink and white (not black as on the TPI to carb swap article). I'm ASSuming that the pink wire can be wired to the BATT terminal (its hot), and the white wire goes to the TACH terminal. Does anything else need to be done as far as wiring the distributor?
Also, any hints on removing the original computer wiring? I was a little concerned about the wiring bundle going to the trans; should this just be wired to a switch? All the sensors/relays on the firewall can be eliminated, right (not using a factory style fuel pump)? I'll check the manual tonight, but any help/advice (or pics would be greatly appreciated. I don't think getting the car running will be a problem, but I'd like to eliminate as much extra wiring as possible. Thanks guys, sorry about the newbie questions!
Also, any hints on removing the original computer wiring? I was a little concerned about the wiring bundle going to the trans; should this just be wired to a switch? All the sensors/relays on the firewall can be eliminated, right (not using a factory style fuel pump)? I'll check the manual tonight, but any help/advice (or pics would be greatly appreciated. I don't think getting the car running will be a problem, but I'd like to eliminate as much extra wiring as possible. Thanks guys, sorry about the newbie questions!
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Distributor wiring sounds right.
To remove the rest, just separate out the stuff you need and pull the rest out. I wouldn't advise cutting it, just unplug & remove.
Leave the tranny harness in place, you just need to rig up a switch to ground the solenoid return for the locking function.
To remove the rest, just separate out the stuff you need and pull the rest out. I wouldn't advise cutting it, just unplug & remove.
Leave the tranny harness in place, you just need to rig up a switch to ground the solenoid return for the locking function.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Well, that's probably true. But, you can strip that part out of the bundle and reuse it.
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From: Woodstock, GA
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Thats what I was thinking, I just wanted to run this stuff by someone who has done it before. All my experience is with either old carbureted stuff, or EFI. Thanks a lot!
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Dixon IL
Car: 2013 Challenger RT
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 6 spd
Axle/Gears: 3:92
If you eliminate the CC, you can change the internals on the tranny very cheaply to automatically engage the TC lockup in OD.
Read whole thread then do a search for "Tourque Converter lockup".
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=230910
I also converted to the large cap non CC HEI and wired it exactly as you have said, and it works fine. However, I drilled and tapped a hole into the body of the dist. for a ground wire to the manifold. Not nessesary, but when I first tried to start the motor I had the dist. hold down loose so I could time the motor and it didn't want to start till I either tightened the hold down, or grounded it. This was with a Mallory Comp 9000 dist., and I have never had that happen before with any factory type dist. So I grounded it, sounds crazy and all and I shouldn't have had to ground it but it was cheap insurance.
Read whole thread then do a search for "Tourque Converter lockup".
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=230910
I also converted to the large cap non CC HEI and wired it exactly as you have said, and it works fine. However, I drilled and tapped a hole into the body of the dist. for a ground wire to the manifold. Not nessesary, but when I first tried to start the motor I had the dist. hold down loose so I could time the motor and it didn't want to start till I either tightened the hold down, or grounded it. This was with a Mallory Comp 9000 dist., and I have never had that happen before with any factory type dist. So I grounded it, sounds crazy and all and I shouldn't have had to ground it but it was cheap insurance.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 206
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From: New Jersey
Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 400 sbc
Transmission: 700R4
I am in the middle of a similar job (non CC q-jet 400 sbc replaced the original LG4). I have the car running fine, I'm just somewhat at a loss when it comes to knowing what underhood wiring can come out, and what can't. I ditched the AC as well, and I've been trying to use wiring diagrams from Hanes and Chiltons, but they aren't very helpful.
Anyone know where I can find better wiring diagrams for my car?
- Justin
Anyone know where I can find better wiring diagrams for my car?
- Justin
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Originally posted by Tru2Chevy
I am in the middle of a similar job (non CC q-jet 400 sbc replaced the original LG4). I have the car running fine, I'm just somewhat at a loss when it comes to knowing what underhood wiring can come out, and what can't. I ditched the AC as well, and I've been trying to use wiring diagrams from Hanes and Chiltons, but they aren't very helpful.
Anyone know where I can find better wiring diagrams for my car?
- Justin
I am in the middle of a similar job (non CC q-jet 400 sbc replaced the original LG4). I have the car running fine, I'm just somewhat at a loss when it comes to knowing what underhood wiring can come out, and what can't. I ditched the AC as well, and I've been trying to use wiring diagrams from Hanes and Chiltons, but they aren't very helpful.
Anyone know where I can find better wiring diagrams for my car?
- Justin
The only thing I had trouble with when I took out the computer on my LG4 was the ground strap on the rear of the pass side head (very close to firewall and difficult to get to).
Unplug the harness from the back of the computer, then feed it out into the pass side fender, then into the engine bay, then just follow the wires to their respective sensors and un-plug them, then the whole harness comes out in one piece.
Sara Lou
Last edited by five7kid; Aug 25, 2005 at 10:39 AM.
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