Problem, new to carbs.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, New York
Car: 1988 Firebird Formula
Engine: 388 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Problem, new to carbs.
Ok, since I am new to these carbs, I am in need of some help. I just sold my 305 TPI TA when I got this car, it is a 1991 Firebird base model with a 350 T5 combo put into it. The engine has less then 10K miles on it. It has an elelbrock intake and carb, I know I know not the best carb out there but better then nothing right?
Here is(are) my probelm(s): The car will start fine. It has the electronic choke so it will Idle at about 2000-2500 RPM when cold untill I take my foot off the gas. Then it just dies, It will do this even when it is completely warm.
This all started about 2 weeks ago. Since I am still learning how to drive a manual, my brother took me to a parking lot and started to show me how to. I did the usual jerking back and forth b/c it was my first time. I forgot to mention to my brother that the car has an overheating problem. Well, the temp guage started to go up so I wanted to go home. I start up the car and ... dies. It did this several times... long story short he gave it gas the whole way home not stopping at all. He gets home the probelm went away.
Yesterday... I am playing around with my car "practicing" driving I have like a 50/50 chance of either getting it going or stalling/ jerking it, I again see the car getting hot. I stall it and go to start it up again. IT DIES. but when I give it gas it is like there is no problem at all.
I have not tried to start the car since then, long story with my key getting remade, they "cant do it" since it has a VATS chip even though I removed vats from the car...
I am not sure what is causing this problem, is it my jecking or is it the getting hot part?
ANY help is greatly appriciated.
Here is(are) my probelm(s): The car will start fine. It has the electronic choke so it will Idle at about 2000-2500 RPM when cold untill I take my foot off the gas. Then it just dies, It will do this even when it is completely warm.
This all started about 2 weeks ago. Since I am still learning how to drive a manual, my brother took me to a parking lot and started to show me how to. I did the usual jerking back and forth b/c it was my first time. I forgot to mention to my brother that the car has an overheating problem. Well, the temp guage started to go up so I wanted to go home. I start up the car and ... dies. It did this several times... long story short he gave it gas the whole way home not stopping at all. He gets home the probelm went away.
Yesterday... I am playing around with my car "practicing" driving I have like a 50/50 chance of either getting it going or stalling/ jerking it, I again see the car getting hot. I stall it and go to start it up again. IT DIES. but when I give it gas it is like there is no problem at all.
I have not tried to start the car since then, long story with my key getting remade, they "cant do it" since it has a VATS chip even though I removed vats from the car...
I am not sure what is causing this problem, is it my jecking or is it the getting hot part?
ANY help is greatly appriciated.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
Likes: 1
From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Ok, I might be able to help, but need a little clarification on something:
"...so it will Idle at about 2000-2500 RPM when cold untill I take my foot off the gas"
Does that mean it will idle at that speed untill you hit the throttle, then it drops down, or you hold the pedal down so it runs at that speed?
That seems a bit high for the choke's fast idle setting. it should be more like 1200-1600 rpm. It should idle around that speed when first started cold (tap the pedal to snap the choke shut) and then drop down to around normal idle speed if you rev it a bit.
"...so it will Idle at about 2000-2500 RPM when cold untill I take my foot off the gas"
Does that mean it will idle at that speed untill you hit the throttle, then it drops down, or you hold the pedal down so it runs at that speed?
That seems a bit high for the choke's fast idle setting. it should be more like 1200-1600 rpm. It should idle around that speed when first started cold (tap the pedal to snap the choke shut) and then drop down to around normal idle speed if you rev it a bit.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Most likely your carb is "flooding out". This caused by a bit of dirt or rust stuck in the carb's needle and seat assembly( there are two) causing the needle valve that regulates how full the fuel bowl gets, from shutting off the fuel when the blowl is full. (float raises in the bowl) You need to remove the top of the carb, dissassemble the neadle and seat/ float arm assembley(s) and clean the needle and seat with carb cleaner and compressed air.
While you have to carb's top off blow out every oriface with compressed air. (unscrew the idle mixture screws out of the carb base and blow out these holes too.) Watch your eyes.
gas is going to spray out of the carb while doing this.
Reassemble the float/needle and seat assembly(s) and check the float height with the carb top flipped over so the bottom is up. Float height is 7/16" should not need any or much adjustment)
Reinstall the top of the carb and the idle mixture screws.
Screw them in all the way and then set them about 1.5 to 2 turns out to start the car. When the car starts let it warm up completely and reset the idle mix screws for best idle quality. Get a inline fuel filter to keep dirt out of the carb.
While you have to carb's top off blow out every oriface with compressed air. (unscrew the idle mixture screws out of the carb base and blow out these holes too.) Watch your eyes.
gas is going to spray out of the carb while doing this.
Reassemble the float/needle and seat assembly(s) and check the float height with the carb top flipped over so the bottom is up. Float height is 7/16" should not need any or much adjustment)
Reinstall the top of the carb and the idle mixture screws.
Screw them in all the way and then set them about 1.5 to 2 turns out to start the car. When the car starts let it warm up completely and reset the idle mix screws for best idle quality. Get a inline fuel filter to keep dirt out of the carb.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, New York
Car: 1988 Firebird Formula
Engine: 388 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
When I said that it will idle at about 2K-2500, I meant that that is where the choke will put it untill I tap my foot on the gas, then it SHOULD idle but doesnt. Is this what you wanted to know??
If this is true then why did this happen more then once?? Also why did both the times it happen when the engine got hot or I stalled/ jerked it??
I appricitate all your help
Thanks
Dennis
Most likely your carb is "flooding out". This caused by a bit of dirt or rust stuck in the carb's needle and seat assembly( there are two) causing the needle valve that regulates how full the fuel bowl gets, from shutting off the fuel when the blowl is full.
I appricitate all your help
Thanks
Dennis
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, New York
Car: 1988 Firebird Formula
Engine: 388 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
I fixed my overheating problem and now it seems as though the other one went away. I wonder how the 2 are related...
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 670
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
Car: 1984 Camaro Berlinetta
Engine: 355
Transmission: Th-350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I've wondered how overheating and flooding are related too. I have a 79 jeep cherokee with a carter BBD carb and since it 's just a beater thats what i do, i beat it. Anyways when it's first started it runs great i mean i can put it to the floor and it just goes, however when it gets warm or should i say hot it floods out and won't restart. Sorry kinda off-topic, just thought id let you know i had the same problem.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, New York
Car: 1988 Firebird Formula
Engine: 388 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Hey, If you are having the same problem with a different car it is def. related.
Thanks
Dennis
Thanks
Dennis
Trending Topics
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 0
From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
It's a new edelcrap it's probably got the curse. Adjust the throttle blade screw on the drivers side (screw it in a turn or two) then see if it will stay running. If it does re-adjust the idle mixture screws and get the idle back down to where you need it. Seems funny but Ive had several on them loose adjustment out of nowhere and when the fast idle cam comes off and you go to primary throttle blade setting it will die just as you describe. Actually Ive only had one run correctly out of the box.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





