fuel pump
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 94
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From: mid missouri
Car: 82 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto th350
Axle/Gears: stock
fuel pump
It quit "ticking" when I turned on the ignition and the car won't stay running so I thinK the problem may be the fuel pump. Anyone know how hard it is to change and exactly where it is located? I was told on the carb engines it on the side somewhere but not in the gas tank.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
This ticking you normally hear when you turn the ign. on, does it normally last for about 15 seconds? If so, that's the mixture control solenoid, not the fuel pump.
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 94
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From: mid missouri
Car: 82 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto th350
Axle/Gears: stock
Would that part then make the car bog down if it quit working? It doesn't idle right or anything now it runs just terrible. Where is that part located?
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 379
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From: Johnstown, PA.
Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
I don't know where its at but you could pick up a Haynes manual or a Chiltons they are really usefull. You can pick on up at your local autoparts store for like 15-20 bucks.
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 94
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From: mid missouri
Car: 82 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto th350
Axle/Gears: stock
Got the manual, found the part ,not really looking forward to the next steps. The moral of the story is "buy a reman part and this is what you get" JUNK! Thanks for the help.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
If the engine isn't started, the MCS stops ticking about 15-20 seconds after the ignition is turned on. That's normal. If it stops ticking when the engine is running, that's not normal.
Your "bog" and stopping are probably not related to the MCS. You need to dig deeper.
Your "bog" and stopping are probably not related to the MCS. You need to dig deeper.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: mid missouri
Car: 82 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto th350
Axle/Gears: stock
The problem is, it quit ticking any time. Before I panic I am going to check fuses and put a meter on the M/C harness. I am not sure on the timing but I am fair sure it is close.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 94
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From: mid missouri
Car: 82 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto th350
Axle/Gears: stock
Not really sure what to do now that I have checked and made sure I am getting proper voltage to the M/C solenoid other then to remove the carb and put in a new solenoid. Anyone else have anything else I can check? I unplugged it several times and even tapped on it hoping it would go back to its rythmic clicking, but no such luck.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 94
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From: mid missouri
Car: 82 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto th350
Axle/Gears: stock
checked the fuses again and got another carb with a known good M/C solenoid and it isn't the problem as five7kid alluded to. Where do I check next?(ECM)
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 3
From: Rock Hill, SC
Car: 1999 Pontiac T/A Firehawk
Engine: ***'s Engine
Transmission: T56
Key on, engine off. Jump the two pins in the ALDL to pull codes. See if the ECM flashes codes. The MC solenoid should go into "happy click mode" when doing this.
If it doesn't click you have a problem. The MC solenoid not clicking at all causes the primaries to run full rich all the time (10% on time is considered a "full rich" command from the ECM, and the solenoid not working at all is richer than this).
Possible problems (and solutions) are:
No codes, no click: ECM problem
Codes, no click: Wiring or MC solenoid problem
Codes and click: Either ECM problem or normal--my Oldsmobile doesn't click unless the engine is running or the ALDL is jumped.
If you've tried a carb with a known good MC solenoid (ie, it clicks when hooked up to another vehicle, but not yours), that probably eliminates yours as the problem (though I'd be tempted to take YOUR carb off and try it in the "known good" vehicle to make sure you're not chasing two problems).
If it doesn't click you have a problem. The MC solenoid not clicking at all causes the primaries to run full rich all the time (10% on time is considered a "full rich" command from the ECM, and the solenoid not working at all is richer than this).
Possible problems (and solutions) are:
No codes, no click: ECM problem
Codes, no click: Wiring or MC solenoid problem
Codes and click: Either ECM problem or normal--my Oldsmobile doesn't click unless the engine is running or the ALDL is jumped.
If you've tried a carb with a known good MC solenoid (ie, it clicks when hooked up to another vehicle, but not yours), that probably eliminates yours as the problem (though I'd be tempted to take YOUR carb off and try it in the "known good" vehicle to make sure you're not chasing two problems).
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 94
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From: mid missouri
Car: 82 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto th350
Axle/Gears: stock
It clicks when jumpers are in ALDL but no codes are flashing. It is no big feat, but once again I am stumped as to what else to check. Anymore ideas?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 3
From: Rock Hill, SC
Car: 1999 Pontiac T/A Firehawk
Engine: ***'s Engine
Transmission: T56
Well, you can stop worrying about the MC solenoid or the wiring for the MC solenoid--it sounds like it's ok.
Do you get a check engine light when you first turn the key to the on position? It should be on anytime the key is on but the engine isn't running.
It's possible your ECM actually died. I had one with these exact symptoms. Generally, if you aren't getting a flashing check engine light with the ALDL jumped, either the CE light itself is bd or the ECM is bad.
Do you get a check engine light when you first turn the key to the on position? It should be on anytime the key is on but the engine isn't running.
It's possible your ECM actually died. I had one with these exact symptoms. Generally, if you aren't getting a flashing check engine light with the ALDL jumped, either the CE light itself is bd or the ECM is bad.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 94
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From: mid missouri
Car: 82 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto th350
Axle/Gears: stock
the check engine light does come on and I am not sure what happened but I was just out in the shop turned the key on and the clicking started again and the car starts and runs perfect in neutral but still just bogs down when I put it in gear and step on the gas. I have checked and rechecked my vacuum lines and I got rid of the hesitation by adjusting the timing ,but with my foot on the brake and I give it some gas it just has no power it seems like. The car has perfect throttle response just sitting and revving it up. Any thoughts?
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