I Just switched out my 305 out of my 84 camaro and put a 350 in it...... But Now Im Not getting the high idle that i used to get when i first start it up...... i have to give it like 7 pumps instead of the 1 that i used to give it , on the gas peddle and then when it finally starts It runs really rough...... with black smoke...... i want it to run high idle untill its warmed up..... how??
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its a 4 barrel by the way and it a quadrehjet

 

would that be your stock computer controlled quadrajet? matched with the computer controlled distributor?

well, 7 pumps would explain the black smoke What happens if you just get in, tap the gas once about 3/4 down to the floor, then crank it over? just sits and cranks, or does it start then die?


when you do get it to cold start up, and it's running rough, quicky run back and look at your carb, is your choke butterfly just barely cracked open? (like 1/8"?) Is your fast idle cam up?

finally, what's your timing at idle?

 

When I Get it to cold start up and its running rough the choke is open just a little bit.... I Dont know wher the location is to the fast idle cam.....

and when i just get in and give it a little tap it starts up but dies after about a minute...... and then when i go to start it again i have to give it a lot of gas......

 

ah ok, so it'll start on one tap, then run for a bit then die? that's starting to make sense.

orange arrow points to fast idle cam. in the picture it is down, and the choke air valve is open. it's warmed up.



when the car is cold in the morning, open the hood and remove your air cleaner. then grab your throttle cable, and pull it back, as if you just gave it one tap of the gas. Your choke air valve should snap shut, your fast idle cam should snap up. If not let me know and i'll tell you how to adjust those. if those work, then walk over and crank it over (don't give it any gas, you already pulled the throttle cable, if you've got a helper, get them to crank it over). Then watch the carb, your choke air valve should open up, 1/8" or so, just a bit, and your fast idle cam should stay up. It should idle at ~1500RPM or so. it should stay like that indefinately, although the idle should rise a bit faster as the engine warms up. The choke air valve should be opening on it's own. Then you should be able to tap the gas, or yank the throttle cable (blip the throttle), and the fast idle cam should drop down, idle speed drops to curb idle speed (750RPM say).

let me know which is the missing link there.

 

Ok Thanks Imma Go Try and See Wat Happens Ima Get Back To You.....

 

Well i went and tried what you said and when i pulled the throttle boy the choke shut by its Self But The Fast idle cam i still in the same position( the position it is on the picture you just gave me).....

 

funny, I just got in from the garage with the same problem.....when I start the car, she jumps up to high rpms...I have to manually push down on the fast idle to get it down to about 1500 rpms...where it will stay until I tap the gas again and it shoots back up

...I didnt even mess with the carb over winter...just did a clutch swap

 

take a number camaro guy

chevyman, your choke thermostat is either bad, or misadjusted. In my picture, I have yellow arrows pointing to the screws, does yours have screws there, or rivets? factory used rivets I think, you can drill them out and replace with screws, comes in a rebuild kit, or you can buy #8 self drilling sheet metal screws, 1/4" long or so...

you didn't rebuild the carb recently did you ?

in the picture, you notice the tang that the electrical plug is connected to? that tang is parallel to the ground ok? it should be close to that. If you have screws there, loosen each one a bit, then rotate it, you'll notice the fast idle cam rotates with it. rotate the choke housing CCW I think, it'll bring your fast idle cam up (your engine should be cold while you do this), once the fast idle cam is up at the top, stop and tighten the screws. Then re-try starting. If the fast idle cam doesn't move while you rotate the choke thermostat, that means somebody didn't hook it up right. If it does move, but the symptoms are the same (rare), then your choke thermostat should be replaced.
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camaro guy, you probably have a vacuum leak. Otherwise, once you cold start the car, make sure your choke air horn is closed and fast idle cam is up, if RPM is still too high (move quickly, as the engine heats up speed will change, and the whole point of the adjustment is to set your COLD idle speed.) then you have to adjust your fast idle screw. Back it down to 1200-1500RPM.
when you manually push down on the fast idle cam it'll go to hot idle (even though the motor is cold), and when you tap the gas, it'll catch on the fast idle cam. It should do that, 'cuz the engine's still cold. Adjust your fast idle speed to the right speed, then if you notice it stays on high idle longer than needed, then you can adjust the thermostat as mentioned.

-Remember, choke thermostat controls the amount of time fast idle is on
-choke air valve controls how rich the mixture is, by blocking off the air flow
-fast idle screw adjusts how high (RPM) cold idle speed is.

capice?

 

oh right

pink arrow points to choke pulloff adjustment. don't touch that!
red arrow points to fast idle screw, righty tightey (higher rpm) lefty loosey(lower rpm)

blue arrow is choke air valve

 

k Im gonna let the engine cool down before I try it

last thing just to throw it out there - my choke light is on in the car (and never was before I started it up this season - if that means anything


thanks for getting to me in due time

 

choke light, make sure the electrical plug is connected to the choke, which should be fairly obvious. From your symptoms it sounds like it's not. Or you disconnected the other end of the cable? (I don't know where it goes...)
Or replace the choke thermostat. usually if the choke light is on it means your alternator is fried, but I think in your case it's not.

 

I just did some searching and got to that alt. conclusion as well. This may be it because when I got the car out yesterday the battery died....had it charging overnight back to a full charge...set her back in the car and throughout the afternoon the batter has been losing the charge again

carb was rebuilt 2 years ago
battery was new 1-2 years ago
alt. new 3-4 years ago

all hoses and connections seem to be fine and connected, so Im going to run the alt. up to a parts store and see if they can check it out

 

well i went out there and adjusted the fast idle screw like you suggested (also checked all connections)....after about 10 twists to the left, I fired the car up and she stuck at just a hair above 1500 rpms (instead of the 4k it was shooting up to!)...I took the car out on the road for 10 or so minutes, and everytime I came to a stop she'd back down to 1500 again...so it looks like that was my problem - now as to how the screw was tightened so much I have no clue


thing is though- my choke light is still on, and the battery has gone from 12v to 10v throughout the day....so my alt. may still be bad (but not shot completley or I'd assume the battery would have been drained by now)....Ill have to get that checked out on Tuesday, because I dont know how to.


thanks for the help sonix - I was getting so down after doing that whole clutch swap and then this - I just want my car to be out!

 

sometimes people see a screw and they tighten it.... i've seen that problem a few times, another one is the rich/lean stop screw...

well, since you just did your clutch, maybe it's your turn to scratch my back; how do you get the throw out bearing on? ie, how do you remove the clutch fork?

 

for the throwout bearing, get some synthetic grease and lube it up. The stock one has flatspots so that you can slip it in there - the one I had was circular all the way round, so it took some muscle and grease

as for removeing the clutch fork...I just slid the dust boot off, and it came out (once the transmission was out of the car

...I had a bad rear main seal so I had to clean the inside of my bellhousing/clutch fork, everything!

 

oh, so you just pull the rubber boot out, and the fork slides out? alright...
yea I noticed my original TO has cut outs, and I know that if I don't move the fork out, there'd be no way i'm getting the new one in.

 

I Loosened up the 3 little bolts but when i wen to turn it with my hand it wouldnt move is this normal or do i just goota put some more strenght into it....????



and no the carburator wasnt rebuilt.......


and witch way do i rotate the thermostat?????

 

you should rotate it counter clockwise. try loosening the screws more, but don't quite let them drop out.

no you definately should not need force with this.

try pulling the black plastic thermostat out a bit, then turn it, it's probably got a tang to keep it centered in that spot. If you want you can completely remove all 3 screws, and remove the cap, then try to put it back in and turn it, you should see why it won't turn (groove and tang). but if you remove it, make sure the "latch" on the backside of the black thermostat catches on the tang inside the thermostat. It's not rocket surgery, you should be able to see how it works once you can move it....

 

I appreciate all the help you have givin me but i looked at it with a friend and he helped me out a little and we realized that i wasnt looking at the right thing......... My Choke does open 1/8 and the thermostate is in the up position....... so now what am i looking at??????????

 

hmm, I dunno, what WERE you looking at?

so if your thermostat is in the up position (ie, that blade is parallel to the ground) rotate it counter clockwise.

 

well i was looking in another place....... i havent messed with none of the adjustments since i took it off my last engine so do you really think it could be that i need to adjust it or what do you think........


u dont think it could be anything else because my choke is opening were its suppose to be and my theremostat is up so what could it be everything is in its position......

 

if you moved the carb from one motor to another, or even just seasonal changes, *may* mean you need to change the settings.

if your choke air valve is opening after the car warms up, good, that means your choke is opening. If the fast idle cam never comes straight up, that means the choke is never coming on really.

thermostat in the flat position is peachy, but if that isn't right for you, then it's not right for you, gotta change it.

have you tried rotating the thermostat? Did it fix the problem?

 

The thermostat is probably tabbed so it will only go in one place. That means either filing down the tab so you can adjust the thermostat, or get a new thermostat element.

 

Imma Go Try rite now all the suggestions...........thanks

 

Sonix... ur good...

im having the same problem..on the started up it going wahh past 2000rpm... Ive turn the screw under the fast idle..no luck..either my oil gauage(which is set up for a 305) or my throttle get stuck, bye the way I have a 383...could this be my oil gauage?

 

quick silver you make no sense. What does your oil gauge have to do with anything?

 

sorry, what i was trying to say was when I start up my car the idel is way high...I losen the idel screw under the tang and it idel fine, then go back up. Also when I press the gas, my throttle gets stuck.

 

so either you have a linkage binding or....

wait, you mean you adjust the fast idle, and bring it down to a good speed, with the car cold and all. then after you kick it down to cub idle, it's still ok, but after you drive, it kicks back onto high idle (meaning your thermostat isn't adjusted right) or you mean it just idles high, but not on fast idle? (meaning binding linkage?)

did I lose you there?

 

lol a little..Well I haven't driven it yet, due to the fact the throttle gets stuck. I understand when the car is cold it idel high and then goes to normal idel. Thats my point its not idel normal at all. Went starting it up it idel high, and I have to push down the "flap" to slow the idel down. By lookin at ur pic that u post with the arrow u would call it the "airhorn" I think is where it goes in to idel high...Ok I loosen and tight the tang screw, no luck. I dont know what screw its call but its behind the "electric" choke, at the bottom of the tang.. it idel fine then start doing the same again. I pretty sure it like u said a binding linkage or something. I hope im make sense here..sorry

 

Yep...finally got the problem fix...had to readjust tha rocker arms....Thankz for your help...

 

lmao......


i am amused


anyways sonix is right on the ball herehe knows what he is talking about

when i set an electric choke up i always do it when the engine is dead cold

go to the throttle open it by hand

this sets the choke fast idle cam on the highest(fast cold idle speed) step on the cam

the screws under there on the pass side there at the choke up underneath the parts is the fast idle speed screw

you want it set to what the sticker under the hood says the cold fast idle speed should be

as far as rotating the choke thermostat assembly sometimes they are splined/keyed in one position and cannot be rotated yeah

but not all of them are

it is very random

when i set a friend of mines '85 grand prix with the little 3.8L Buick with an E2ME(2bbl EST/CCC oval half moon shaped airhorn) carb in which has the sam electric choke setup as the E4ME carbs) for him a couple of days ago it was not shutting very far at all when dead cold, it was not splined in one position, so i was able ot tun it a little counter clock wise to make it so it shut the choke a little more and so he could set the cold fast idle speed
after that i discovered that choke was not opening up on its own

so that means either the wire is not hot, or the thermostat is bad


so i had to go back and do the opposite than i just performed, and rotate the thermostat clockwise enough so that the choke linkage is past the last choke fast idle cam step so that the carb linkage sits on the curb idle speed screw(driver side linkage screw)




now the choke wire on the earlier years anyways ran to the "secondary" fise panel that is for the courtesy stuff, and the horn relay and so onthere is almsot always a relay labeld CHK RLY

make sure you have yours

good luck