Could I just unplug all my vacuum lines and plug them and still have good drivability? I'm talking about the carbon canister lines. I know I'll have to keep the map sensor and the brake booster but could I just remove the other ones? I have a computer controlled quadrajet with no vacuum advance on the distributor. I'd also like to remove the egr valve could I do that too without losing drivablity. I don't think mine works anyway. It's stuck closed But I would like to take it out and put a block off plate.

 

If the engine has an EFE valve in the exhaust, you can eliminate that vacuum line. You'll still need vacuum to the Thermac valve and actuator on the stock air cleaner. The EVAP is completely passive, costs no power, and saves fuel. There is no reason to remove it unless you need the space in the fender for something else.

 

I had to remove the valve in the air cleaner because it was stuck closed. so I unhooked the lines to the air cleaner. what is that going to do? I also removed the efe valve at the exhaust. I've been running without the evap for a couple days now. I thought I had a vacuum leak so I removed and plugged all my vacuum lines. I finally got my carb running right. It was the seals in the idle air bleed they were flat so I replaced them. Am I gonna have to readjust it if I reconnect these hoses?

 

So, you discovered that the real problem was not all those "darned vacuum lines" but a bad seal.

If the Thermac in the air cleaner was stuck closed, you were contantly pulling exhaust heated air and at some restricted volume. Hopefully, you've either repaired the Thermac valve or permanently held it open. If you've repaired the valve, reconnect the lines and allow the system to operate normally. If it is blocked open, leaving the vacuum lines disconnected and capped should have no adverse effects.

After reconnecting the EVAP lines, you should not have to readjust. When adjusting, the engine is basically at idle RPM, or with a nearly closed throttle running on the idle circuit. The EVAP should not be active until the throttle is opened more and at a higher RPM, such as at a part throttle cruise speed.

 

Yep a bad seal was the culprit. I removed the flap in the air cleaner so I guess I can cap that line and be done with it. As far as the evap goes could I bypass the purge TVS and the EFE TVS and still have the evap work? They don't work anyway.