i just got a rebuilt carb from advance and i am having the same problem as i did before... the thing is every time i go to wot... the car wants to see about dieing... i have replaced just about everything the fuel pump fuel filter and the carb and the cap and rotor and the spark plugs... now i know i got the carb from advance... it is the q jet and it is the american made camaro and the carb is the correct one for my vehilcle... now i can go through the rpms if i am light on the gas and dont floor it no problem... its like i said only when i floor it and it is getting so annoying not being able to floor it... if someone knows what the problem is please help iam getting pissed at the car....

 

your sig link doesn't work.

computer controlled carb?
computer controlled distributor? Please answer this first.

-If you look down the bores of the primaries, and flick the throttle by hand, can you see the two jets of fuel going in?

-what is your base timing? with EST unplugged? and with it plugged in?

start with that for now.

 

yes it is the computer controlled carb... and i would believe that makes the distributor computer controlled as well... i know it allso does have the electric choke... and it does have another plug in on the front of the carb as well... and one that goes underneath the air filter... adn all of those are plugged in... i also know that according to the vin that its the h motor... if that helps you out any... and i cant remember what the timing is have no way of checking that out but i do idle around 800 to 1000 right now... and what is the est... just out of curiosity...

 

hey i am thing about going to the edlebrock carb part number 1406 which is the electric choke and i know i would have to do the adapter plate for that but which distributor will work well with that one.... i just heard that advance has some of the worst rebuilt c arbs and parts for that matter... so if i went to the edelbrock carb that should elliminat some of the computer controll in that carb corect and then the change in distributor... as well would eliminate any computer issues... the funny thing is that the check engine light has yet to come on for any of this now i have seen it come on and then go right back off and when i get off of work i go adn see if i can have anything pulled up to show a problem and nothing even comes up.... so weired.....

 

yes, if you went to that carb you'd need to swap distributors. You have a 5 speed trans, so that takes care of that.
I'm not sure what else you'd need.

ok, so you have the choke plugged in, the mixture control solenoid (top plug), and the Throttle position sensor (front plug) all plugged in?

it should idle lower then that i'd think, may have to adjust it with the idle screw.
Timing would be a good thing to check, if you can beg/borrow/steal/buy a timing light. Your EST connector is what connects your distributor to the computer, so it'll advance the timing. You disconnect it when you want to reset your timing. It's a 4 pin weather pack, usually hanging out somewhere behind the distributor, and off to the drivers side.

I'd recommend trying to debug and fix your current carb, rather then going aftermarket. Not really worth all the hassle, and $$.

 

the aftermarket one is onlly going to cost like 10 bucks more then what i already spent for the oe rebuilt carb that i got so that is y i am looking at going that rought right now and i have heard from some of the people at advanc that it sounds like it is still the carb even tho i just got it from them... so that is part of the reason i am thinking about going this rought... i am just getting upsett that i keep having problems and cant seem to find an exact on what is wrong... other than one of the internal electric pieces might be the problem...

 

you can try exchanging it then.

but yea, $10 more for the edelbrock carb
$150 for the distributor (roughly?)
$ ?? for the adapter plate, if you're going squarebore, or $130 for an edelbrock manifold, so you don't need an adapter plate
some black tape for the check engine light

not much else I don't think....

anyway, try another q-jet first, or troubleshoot and fix this one.

 

If the car acts exactly like it did before changing the carb, that's a very good sign that it wasn't the carb causing the problem.

You've done cap, rotor & plugs, that's very good. Now do spark plug wires, coil, and ignition module. Make sure your ignition timing is correct in the process - up to 6 degrees BTDC instead of zero often helps LG4's run better as well. 99% chance your problem will go away. You'll be much better off that way than going with an Edelbrock carb.

If you really want to do the aftermarket carb/distributor/manifold, go with a Holley 600 CFM doublepumper, rather than the Edelbrock. The Edelbrock is a cheap carb, but don't make the mistake of thinking you are exempt from the rule of getting what you pay for.

 

Thats because the severs changed, new address is in my sig...