Carburetors Carb discussion and questions. Upgrading your Third Gen's carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.

cc carb to non ccc a/c question

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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 11:25 PM
  #1  
83-84z28's Avatar
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From: miami
Car: 1983 z28
Engine: '73 4-bolt 350
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 with auburn and 28 spline axle
cc carb to non ccc a/c question

Hello I hope i'm not sounding stupid but if i swap from my factory q-jet to an edel. for example what am i supposed to do with the idle and mx control solenoids and connectors I could just leave them disconnected but won't i need the idle solenoid to bump up the idle when i turn the a/c on? In other words how would i still use my a/c with and aftermarket carb/dist combo?
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Old Jan 20, 2007 | 12:43 PM
  #2  
84L69TA's Avatar
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From: Glendale, AZ
Car: 4 Mopars total
Engine: Pentastar power
Transmission: T/F and New Process
Axle/Gears: Three 8 3/4's & one 9 1/4
Can I ask why you want to do that? Keep your E4ME. If it isnt functioning properly, fix it. Youll have more power, better fuel economy, and better driveability with the stock CCC setup. The only thing Id do with an Edelbrock carb is throw it in the garbage. Done it many times before. I actually have one sitting here, and you couldnt pay me to put it on my car.
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Old Jan 20, 2007 | 02:30 PM
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From: 62656
Car: 1991 S10 pickup 2700lbs
Engine: 4.3L Z TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 7.625"
if you do this swap thne you will also have to swap to a non computer distributor and remove the entire passenger side harness and ECM in the kickpanel inside the car on passenger side also

you wont need map and 02 sensors and such anymore

its not difficult for a mechnically knowldegable person to swap from ecm to non ecm but its involving for a noob

you would need to know how to set a distributor in and set an engine to TDC and how to time it and such

the non0-E carbs have the solenoid to bump up the idle also

when rquipped with a/c

no difference

the drivability opinion is just that, an opinion, it will drive the same or better if the carb is in bad shape now and if you put a good running carb on it


drivability has nothing to do with whether is an ecm controlled or not


misconceptions and opinions are very amusing indeed..



good luck

Last edited by Randy82WS7; Jan 20, 2007 at 02:33 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 12:33 AM
  #4  
83-84z28's Avatar
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From: miami
Car: 1983 z28
Engine: '73 4-bolt 350
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 with auburn and 28 spline axle
Ok so i've looked around a bit more. But why keep the old carb? Are the newer carbs really not that much better or is it just a better match for my vehicle due to engne? Yes my carb is acting up a i don't know of any shops around that i would trust a 24 year old carb to. Was just looking to replace it with maybe an edelbrock carb and a regular hei dist. Is it really worth it to fix my carb and keep the cc for everything ?
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 09:15 AM
  #5  
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From: Danville, IN
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12 Bolt, 3.42
Theres a lot of different opinions on whats better QJet or Edelbrock. Both have good and bad points a valid argument can be made for either choice. But in my personal experience I haven't had much luck with stock Q-Jets. In most cases they seem to be more trouble, more expensive and not worth keeping especially when they are 20+ years old. I wouldn't hesitate putting an edelbrock carb on a stock or near stock engine, they work well for that. I had excellent drivability and throttle response and no trouble with the edelbrock carbs. The only negatives I can think of for the Edelbrock carb is I did lose maybe 2mpg and it took a little longer to warm up and drive in cold weather. I've personally done the swap a couple of times before and I would do it again. It simplifies the wiring and amount of emmissions equipment assuming you live in an area where emmissions aren't checked. Its not a hard swap but a little time consuming sorting through the wiring and vacuum hoses to clean up the engine bay but its worth it. And like Fast68 said be sure to swap in an older(non CC) HEI at the same time and if you have the money you may even consider going to a performer or performer RPM intake.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 09:36 AM
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Your computer controlled carburetor adjusts mixture ratio based on input from several sensors. Your problems could be as simple to fix as replacing a $20 O2 sensor. I would recommend spending a little bit of time on your current system before spending several hundred dollars (and probably MORE time) replacing it.

If you're interested, tell us what the issues are and maybe we can help.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 09:22 PM
  #7  
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From: miami
Car: 1983 z28
Engine: '73 4-bolt 350
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 with auburn and 28 spline axle
wow. I can't believe I'm getting so much advise for my question . Thanks . Well here's my problem under normal driving the car runs great no problems it's only when i floor it does it fall on its face or bogs. It onl happens when i floor it sometimes more pronounced when turning sometimes just stright line. When this happens if i keep my foot in it it will surge or buck then eventually right itself on go! It's really wierd I don't think my fuel pickup in the tank would be problem as it does this at any tak level.I'm thinking maybe clogged secondary jets/rods or something? Any help is greatly appreciated. Again thanks.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 10:30 PM
  #8  
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
There's a tech article on this site on adjusting the secondary air valves that's worth looking at. I've seen the air valves 'stick' sometimes too, make sure they move freely.

You may also want to replace your fuel filter in the carb inlet. If it will sustain wide open throttle once it goes, it probably not fuel delivery, though.

Check your choke pull off, canister by the fuel inlet. Pull the vacuum line off, press in the plunger, hold finger over vacuum opening, release plunger and it should stay in place.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 11:09 PM
  #9  
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
One could easily argue that the Edelbrock is the "old" carb and the stock factory is the "latest & greatest".

I would never recommend that someone downgrade to an Edelbrock from a stock factory CC carb.

Sounds like you have an easy problem to fix. Switch to an Edelbrock, and you'll have a lot more adjusting and problems to chase than you will fixing what ails you now.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 03:11 PM
  #10  
83-84z28's Avatar
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From: miami
Car: 1983 z28
Engine: '73 4-bolt 350
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 with auburn and 28 spline axle
Well i just finished taking the steps suggested and adjusted the a/v and cheched the choke pull off it all seems to be working but i still have a bog with full throttle but not at 75% or less.Any other suggestions?
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 03:38 PM
  #11  
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
If you're comfortable removing the airhorn on the carb you may want to check that the four tubes (emulsifier and secondary pickup) are still attached to the underside. These fall out and can cause problems. Most likely is still AV tension, but if you want to have a look inside, there's a thread in carb boards started by Nate86 on rebuilding that may be worth a look. If your carb's never been opened, bet these tubes are laying in there loose.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 03:51 PM
  #12  
83-84z28's Avatar
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From: miami
Car: 1983 z28
Engine: '73 4-bolt 350
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 with auburn and 28 spline axle
Do you mean the tubes you see when you fully open the blades?
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 05:26 PM
  #13  
83-84z28's Avatar
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From: miami
Car: 1983 z28
Engine: '73 4-bolt 350
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 with auburn and 28 spline axle
well i toook it to a carb shop today and he thinks i need an overhaul he showed my the unit he's going to swap for mine and it look pretty new i can tell the tps and mc solenoid is new all he'll have to use from mine is te choke and the idle motor for the a/c He's asking $260 installed and setup for my veh. Do you think this is an ok price?
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 05:54 PM
  #14  
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Get a rebuild kit and do it yourself... Qjets can be kinda intimidating the first time, but if you go slow and take your time and pay attention, you can easily rebuild it yourself. The kit only costs about $25 and some cleaner too. Rebuild the Qjet, it is a better carb than the Edelbrock is.
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 06:09 PM
  #15  
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt


Take the $40-50 gamble. If you totally fubar it you know where you can take it.
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 08:32 PM
  #16  
88 350 tpi formula's Avatar
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From: WI,USA
Car: 89 FORMULA 350, 91 Z28 Convertible
Engine: ls1, LB9
Transmission: t56, Auto
Axle/Gears: S60/ 3.73
I am no carb guy by any means but I have installed a few Carter/ Edelbrock carbs and a few Holley double pumpers. The carter carb hands down out of the box lost HP (key word is out of the box) with adjusting the pump shot and idle mixture screws is what 99.9% of the people do with any carb. with some good tuning I don't see why the carter would do much worse than the stocker but the stocker is a spread bore and usually will allow more mpg and even "feel" more of a pull when the large secondarys open. but, again out of the box I felt the Holley double pumper (make sure of that it has to have two pumps not bowls since alot of guys will try and sell these as double pumpers) anyway as I was saying the holley worked the best.... but will cost you some $$

I for one would continue checking out the stocker.. good luck
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