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choke/heat problem

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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 05:16 PM
  #1  
steeljab's Avatar
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Car: 87' Camaro
Engine: 305 carbed
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
choke/heat problem

okay, aparently the choke on my car stays on untill i go above 2000rpms, and i comes back on when i drop below that again, this is regardless of wether the engine is hot or cold. I've got a bit of a heat problem where it gets up to redline and doesn't want to go back down(and it'll go higher if i touch the gas) now i've already ordered a 180* tstat and that should be here in a day or two. but if i drop the car into second (assuming i'm going at a reasonable speed for that, and it brings me above 2krpms) my heat problem *seems* to go away, but i only just tried that and the way home when i noticed the choke problem.

on a side note i havn't as of yet looked at the choke while it was running and ahve somone rev it up above 2krpms but i'm going to tomoro morning.


anyways, anyone know what i can do to fix this? mabey tune it to where the choke stays off above 1krpms?
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 09:25 PM
  #2  
naf's Avatar
naf
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
You can observe the action of the choke while it warms up at idle. The choke blades should slowly open as the coil heats up. First, make sure the one wire connector to the choke is connected and supplying 12 volts.

If your problem is an overheat issue, the 180 t-stat won't help (unless your existing t-stat is FUBAR). If your vehicle is cooling down at speed but not at idle, check your radiator fan and fan switch. Check the sticky in the cooling forum for more.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 02:25 AM
  #3  
Sonix's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
you could also go ahead and tell us a bit about your car. Perhaps the year, motor, modifications etc?

Maybe the choke thermostat needs to be adjusted a bit. Maybe your clutch fan is screwed, or maybe you have an electric fan. Gotta give some info here, that's what that sidebar is for eh?
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 08:39 AM
  #4  
steeljab's Avatar
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Car: 87' Camaro
Engine: 305 carbed
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
its an stock 1987 lg4 camaro. that would be 1 electric fan, automatic, 305 carbed, etc etc.

my vehicle will almost never cool down unless i stop, somtimes if i accelerate for a moment it will cool down a little, but it will heat right back up if i keep accelerating.

the choke opens up just a little by the time the engine is warmed up, and opens a little more when i rev it, its only ever fully open when the car hits approx 5krpms

i still havn't changed Tstats hoping that would fix the heat yet, its been cold and i've either been sick or working (well, both).
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 09:50 AM
  #5  
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naf
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Got the single wire connected to the choke?

Is the radiator fan coming on when it heats up?

Is the air dam in place under the front?
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 11:31 AM
  #6  
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From: 62656
Car: 1991 S10 pickup 2700lbs
Engine: 4.3L Z TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 7.625"
is the black choke cover still riveted or does it have screws?

if its held in place with screws then do this- but only if the choke plate is not shut all the way when the engine is cold:

with the engine cold, loosen up the screws

hold the throttle open a bit by hand while you turn the choke cover counter clockwise until the choke plate shuts jut barely

let go of the throttle and tighten up the screws



now if the choke plate is shut all the way with the engine cold then loosen the screws up and hold the throttle open by hand a bit and turn the choke covr clockwise until the blades open just a tiny tiny bit

then let go and tighten up the screws



if the choke is not shut with the engine cold then the choke is either not getitng power to it through the single wire to it, or the choke is bad and you need a different one off another carb, or a new one, whichever you can find first

check for +12 volts at the wire with the ignition turned on first though


dont forget thatt he choke wont shut all the way or move very much if you dont hold the throttle open by hand

the fast idle cam wont allow it, until the throttle is opened a bit, the fast idle cam has steps on it,

and there is normally a choke pulloff unit mounted on the pass side of the carb that pulls the choke open some at a certain intake manifold vacuum signal, higher RPM, so that when the choke is not opened up at all or much it will pull the choke open when you rev it up so the engine wont die of suffocation(too rich of mixture)

one vacuum hose connects to the pulloff unit

cant miss it

make sure its working, it sounds like it is on yours though, and wouldnt be the problem/cause anyways



good luck
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