My car has been acting up....when I go to start the car, sometimes it will start and sometimes it won't until I give it gas. After it starts, sometimes it will idle at 1500 or it will just die.

If I give it gas, it will hesitate and it takes a few revs to actually go through the entire powerband.

I adjust the idle screw and the idle doesn't change at all. Which made me think it's the TPS. But would a faulty TPS really give a high idle and low idle, both? And would it cause the engine not to start until the gas was pressed?

Or could it be something to do with the carb? What makes me think it's not the carb is the fact that it will idle high when I don't even press the gas. Then again.....

 

If you think its the TPS try checking the voltage at the carb by inserting pins in the back of the connector. Turn the ignition on, but not running. Use a DMM to find the 5V supply lead, then check the voltage of the lead that changes proportionally with the TPS. Should be set to 0.48V.

I'd also check for vacuum leaks by unplugging all the emission hoses and use the plugs from any local auto parts store.

My advice is to buy the Haynes manual for working on these things. It'll go a long way for helping you out. I know it did for me.

 

I just bought the Haynes manual today....not sure that it's a big help since I can't find the page the TPS is on. Doesn't say how to remove it, which wires to check the voltage at, or anything. I don't even know where the TPS is located.

I bought a new one but nothing on the engine looks like it.

But sometimes the car will start without giving it gas, but then it dies right away. Sometimes I have to give it gas and it'll start to die so I'll give it more gas and it'll hesitate and only go to a certain rpm...then I have to rev it a few more times to get it to rev to 5k or so. Then after that, sometimes it will idle at 1500, sometimes it'll die.

I backflushed the cooling system earlier and then took the car out for a spin. When the car was in gear, the rpm's were normal...when the clutch was pushed in, the idle went to 2000. At a stopsign or light, idle was at 2000. Put it in first gear and didn't even have to touch the gas and it went on it's own.

I was messing with the idle screw earlier, and it could be that I screwed it in all the way. But with it normal, the car doesn't stay running for long. So I'm not sure if it's a carb or TPS issue.

 

The TPS is covered under the "Feedback Carb" section somewhere in the middle of the book. It describes all the sensors that are used and how to check them.

The TPS is located in the carb itself, located in the front driver-side corner. Its a three wire sensor, not sure which signal is the output, but you can probe around to find it.

 

Let's start with first principles:

1. You are supposed to open the throttle a little before turning the ignition to "start". This closes the choke and sets the high idle cam.

2. When the choke is on, the idle speed is set by the high idle cam, which is on the passenger side of the carb. When the high idle cam is engaged, the "normal" idle adjustment screw isn't going to affect idle speed.

3. A properly operating choke is fundamental to proper engine operation until warmed up. You weren't specific when these problems are occurring.

4. The TPS does not directly affect idle speed. At most, TPS data could affect timing commands from the ECM, but not likely to cause what you're describing.

 

Thanks....here is what I did this morning when I started the car up:

-Car wouldn't start without giving it gas...so I was giving it gas to start it.
-It started up and idled for not even two seconds then died.
-Started it again, pressing the gas again.
-Gave it a few revs, and it hesitates to rev. It will not go high in the powerband....like the carb doesn't get enough gas or something. So I have to rev it 3 or 4 times then it will go through the powerband.
-It idled at 1500rpm.
-I pushed the clutch in, put it in reverse and attempted to back up. Car died...again, like it's not getting enough gas, even though I push the pedal down, it is like it is limited by something.
-Started it back up and then continued backing up...put it in first gear. Still idled at 1500. Drove it down the street. Came to a stop sign, still idled at 1500.
-Had the heater on and had the fan blowing on high...it was cold so I know the engine wasn't heated up.
-Drove around for maybe 5 minutes. At stop signs the idle was still 1500. It would go down to 1250 then back up to 1500.
-Started heading home, heat started to come out of the vents.
-Got to the gate, punched in the code and the car was idling at 1500.
-Got home and the car idled at 850. Let it idle a few minutes, then turned it off.

It is that initial startup where it isn't getting enough gas or something. Other than that, when I start to drive it...other than the high idle, it is fine. It will hesitate for a split second if I mash the gas down, then it'll pull like a bitch.

So I really don't know...could it be the choke? Would it cause the car to do that? That is the typical runthrough...happens whenever the engine is cold.

 

Sounds like a choke that isn't operating properly.

 

My car idles at 850 or so now....starts up no problem, idles at lights no problem. Earlier it was idling high though. So I have no clue....

 

Check for sticky choke mechanisms, loose wire on the choke thermostat.

 

I looked on the passengers side of the carb and there's no linkage or anything of the sort....so where is the choke?

 

Sticky at the top of this forum: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...e-rebuild.html

Figure 6C1-8. You probably don't have the rear vacuum break, but if you do, Figure 6C1-7.

 

If the choke is on the passengers side....I don't have any of it. Pics below.

Passengers side:




Another passengers side:




Drivers side:




Where do I get the choke???

 

Someone has abused that carb. Your choke and associated linkage are gone, and the choke plate is just sitting open. To get the car to start and run, you're going to need to feather the throttle continuously after starting to keep it from dying until it warms up.

 

That's what I do....I keep giving it gas and then it will idle right after awhile. These guys I bought the car from were nice and everything....get the car and it needs a lot of work. I'm beginning to think they took all the **** off of it right before I bought it.

Will these carbs fit on my car? Instead of getting the choke and everything, I might just buy a new carb....there are two different carbs I'm looking at. Here are the numbers:

17066558
7043202 K2 BS

My carb has number:

17082204

 

Actually...if someone knew what parts I needed, I would just get the choke parts and put them on.

I found the choke pulloff and thermostat on NAPA, but I think there's more to it than just that. Anyone have part numbers or know what else I need?

 

Where are you located? If there's a junk yard near you that'd be easiest as you could pick up the entire assembly. Don't even think you could buy each of the little pieces separately. I've picked up entire carbs for $20. Getting it all together assembled would sure help putting it all on your carb correctly.

 

You want to buy the pieces? From Figure 6C1-21 from the link I posted above, you'll need the following parts: #'s 25, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36, 37, 39, 40, 42, 43, 46, 47.

From what I've been able to gather, the 17066558 is not a E4ME carb, so no, it wouldn't work.

 

It would be easier to just buy a new carb....would this one work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/QUADR...spagenameZWDVW

 

Yes, that should work.

 

Decent price and 'should' come with the better hanger/secondary metering rods.

 

Someone had mentioned there's a green wire that goes to the choke...what is that, and where does it plug into?