I finally got to drive my car today after the engine swap. It felt weak and would stumble when I floored it. I started looking at the carb and found that it would only open the front barrels half way and nothing on the secondaries because there wasn't enough travel on the throttle cable. I have a Bowtie Overdrives TV cable bracket along with an optional throttle cable bracket. Has anyone ever used this brand of bracket?

 

I have the same set up. I had to cut the plastic tube off the throttle cable so it had more travel. I also made a bracket that extends where the throttle cable attaches to the bto bracket. Make sense? I can get a picture if you need it.

 

Cheap-o Spectre chrome throttle cable bracket (adjustable) worked fine on my 92 when I swapped over to a carb (Holley). No modification of the throttle cable, gas pedal height was identical to stock.

 

Yeah I would like to see what your bracket looks like. I bought some 1/8" steel and cut a 2.5"x2.25" piece off and drilled holes to move the throttle cable bracket back about 2" or so. I think this might have fixed the problem but I'll have to test it tomorrow to see if I have plenty of travel. I didn't cut the black plastic tube off yet but it'll be my next step.

 

Yep, did the same thing. I thought I could remove the tube and make it work without the plate, but it seems to work better with more travel. So, I did both.

 

If you could, post that picture up. Im having a similar issue and would like a reference.

 

finally took a picture.

 

That's exactly how I did mine.

 

Pondriver- the reason you had to cut the plastic back to get more travel is becuase you have your throttle cable stud in the wrong hole on the throttle arm.

 

Should I be in this one?

 

Like this.....



That throttle cable stud is Edlebrock part number 8009 although Holley makes an equivalent one as well (don't know the part number off the top of my head). It's for Chevy throttle cables from 77-up (ring on the end of cable). It fits the hole in the throttle arm perfectly without any washers/adapters.

Because it is closer to the fulcrum point of the throttle arm it takes less cable travel to go from idle to WOT. This location works well for most mid-70s-up Chevy applications.

The hole you have marked in the document you posted is typically used for very old 1960s/early-1970s-era applications that use a metal bar from a bell-crank on the firewall instead of a cable.

 

Thanks, I'll give it a try. I guess that could also affect the TV cable too?

 

The TV cable is separate from the throttle cable so changing the stud location for the throttle cable won't affect the TV cable. Looks like you already have the right adapter on there for a TV cable.