SDIF

Does anyone have any experience with restrictor plates or 2 barrel race carbs?

The reason that I ask is that i am planning on running my car in a lower class next year which will allow no more than 1 hp for every 9.5 lbs of total weight with driver. HP is measured at the rear wheels on a chassis dyno. ie. 3100lb car can not have over 326 rear wheel horsepower.

I do not know how much power I have now but would estimate 500 at the flywheel. 350 chevy, Button aluminum Flywheel on lightweight flex plate, 3 discs clutch, T-10, 9 inch ford. Last time car was weighted with driver was 3021lbs wet.

350 SBC .030 over , AFR 195 64 cc heads with mild hand port to enhance CNC porting, good valve job. JE Flat Tops, Zero deck height, .039 head gasket, heads milled by engine builder to give about 10.5+:1.00 CR.

Ring seal is tight as a drum. No blow by, Crank case well vented, etc

Cam is solid roller by BULLET. I don't know the specs did not want to know for fear of second guessing the experts. I asked for a cam that would not eat valve springs and would have good, smooth, predictable, linear power and survive a ham fisted driver who admits to missing a few shift from time to time. Very pleased with the cam. It pulls to 7000 shift point very quickly.

Rotating Assemble is 6 in rods and GM steel crank, Timing MSD 6al , unilite advance welded up, 36 deg all the time.

Intake is now Vic Jr with 750 dp.

Now the question... Will a restrictor plate or a 2 barrel 390 or 500 knock out a significant amount of power.

Also will the restrictor plate or smaller carb on this motor monkey with the fuel signal or other issues and not be a good idea for this combination.

4playta

I would just retard the timing alittle and then bump it back up in the pits...lol!

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

You could do what the drag racers do; use an adjustable, or even a controllable and variable, "throttle stop".

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

get it dyno'd and pull out 4 degrees of timing if needed and that should do it.

327_TPI_77_Maro

iTrader: (8)

4 deg taken out of total timing is not doing to do it. W/ good heads on an SBC, which he has, you can run very little total timing and still make huge HP. You could run 28-30 deg w/ those heads it the motor would still be cranking along.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I'm sure pulling the timing out will drop HP considerably, on a bbc with AFRs, 2 degrees of timing was worth 50hp on a dyno. More restrictive exhaust, etc etc will drop power levels, but really I'd be thinking of adding a slight amount of ballast somewhere to help handling since you can't be much above the 350hp level at the rear wheels once you pull timing and maybe add a smaller exhaust.

SDIF

Sorry not to mention this earlier. Exhaust

Exhaust is 1 3/4 full length headers to 3 inch Dr. Gass Cross Over and then to Boom Tube.

"Louder than Marshall Stack"

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

weigh the car, see what you can get away with and then tune it on the dyno, that's the only way you'll get real world results. Anything else is pissing in the wind.