Wanted to get a quick opinion on carb/intake selection.

I'm looking for the best combo to put on top of a virtually stock L98. I was thinking somthing along the lines of performer RPM/Holley 650 DP, but not really sure what will work well with these engines. only thing aftermarket is are headers. thanks for the oppinions, just trying to get an idea on which way to go.

 

Why do you want to switch back to a carburator? I'ld just do a Holley StealthRam swap and be happy with it but that just me.

 

your sig says you have a HSR now, unless that's a lie? I'd stick with what you have.

 

I would go with the Edelbrock Performer . And for the carb the Edelbrock 600CFM Performer . Also change you HEI to a non-computer type with a curve kit . This will be the best set up for a stock long block L98 .

 

The only thing it would be "best" of is the absolute best waste of hard-earned performance dollars.

 

exactly. a performer rpm air-gap and 650 or 750 double pumper would be fine, but if he has a HSR already it's mostly wasted money.

 

yes, my HSR is on ebay right now. I got tired of the hassle of trying to tune it. It will be much easier for me to make power and work with a carb than EFI. I'm removing all the computer I can. still trying to gather info on what all the ecm controls.

 

You gonna leave it stock, or are there heads/cam in the future? I'm assuming its a 700R4 with a crappy RS open rear with 2.73s. A double pump carb w/ a stock converter and low rear might not be ideal... if you're leaving the motor mostly stock your not too big on the pursuit of power, a demand based carb is probably the way to go. The 1406 was already mentioned - which about half the people you ask will tell you is garbage, the other half will tell you works just fine. There are other options for demand based carbs as well.

Why are you not using the HSR?

 

I don't consider it wasted money, With EFI you have alot holding you back if you cant burn your own chips.

 

A trip to a dyno for a full tune would cost less than a carb and intake. I guess it really depends on how much modding you're going to do. If you like to take the motor apart and change stuff all the time, carb might be the way to go. I don't daily drive mine, and I like to tinker, so the carb was an obvious choice. If you have daily driver, then fuel injection really does make a lot more sense, just for the mileage alone. Performace is a moot point, HSR vs. carb is going to be pretty even until the combo's start to get really while, then the HSR might become a restriction. So, I guess it depends on your end goals.

 

well, if it helps end goal-street/strip cruiser

 

If you're looking for flexibility for what you've got now and more in the future, then your proposed 650DP/Performer RPM is a good way to go.

Please realize that the RPM intake is a tight fit under a stock hood.

Also, a DP is a little better for strip than street. A Vacuum Secondary carb is more drivable on the street in situations where you might have to "lug" the engine in too high a gear. The Holley 3310 750 CFM vac sec carb is one of the best Holleys for a dual-duty car. It's a fairly subtle difference between the two in most situations, but if you do more street driving than dragstrip duty you should consider a vac sec carb- they're more "fire and forget" in daily cut-and-thrust driving. Less chance of a bog or stumble if you have to mat the pedal at low RPMs in a less-than-optimal gear. If you care more about dragstrip performance then get a DP and live with the mild quirkyness under certain street driving situations.

BOTH have equal potential for economy IF YOU KEEP YOUR FOOT OUT OF THE THROTTLE. Don't let anyone tell you a DP wastes more gas than a VS. Not true- it's just so much fun to boot the throttle you end up using more gas every time you smack those secondaries open.

 

STOCK L98 Now if he did some head porting Then the RPM intake will be a better manifold to use . With a 750 carb .

 

I was referring to the Edelbrock carb, not the intake manifold.

 

That 600 is a bit on the small side . But his RS may also have the stock rear end in it . The Edelbrock AFB re-make carbs work good on street cars . The 750 Performer carb I think would work better then a Holley #3310 750 V/S . If he has a 3.42 gear or larger then a 700 Holley D/P would work well . The L98 Heads are good heads but when stock 882 heads can out flow them . Port the heads and run the RPM intake with a 700/750 Holley D/P

 

Ok I should fill you in. swapped entire drivetrain from a ;90 iroc

 

Agreed.
Irrelevant.
They were never as good as Holleys, not improved in the "re-make", and no way to start off unless you're desperate and there's nothing else available within a day's walking distance.
I wouldn't recommend a VS carb, either. But, even then, you are incorrect.
Gears have nothing to do with the carb size or type.
Flow, maybe; but I doubt it. 882's certainly don't out-power 083's.
That's what we would say if it was clear he didn't already have a better EFI system.

RebelRacer, you said originally "virtually stock", "headers", and your sig says "HSR". Now you said "entire drivetrain" - there has been a lot of talk between us between times you chimed in, and it still isn't at all clear what you've got.

Regardless, an Edelbrock carb is not the way to go.

 

Edelbrock is a good Carb i have allways liked them i recently got the thunder series model with vacume secondaries an love it very easy to set up an doesnt reguire the constant tuneing that a holley does. this is all opinion an you should go with what you feel would be better for your application an you the tuner. good luck

 

Regarding Edelbrock carbs:

Because it keeps coming up, I'll chime in, the Edelbrock Performer carbs arn't that bad at all. They are not the number one performing carb - I don't think anybody would argue that, but they arn't the scum of the earth that some people think they are. Like any carb, its all in the tune, and properly tuned they offer good performance and reasonable fuel economy. It is fact that they are fairly easy to setup and tune.

Last year I took a walk around the New York State Fairgrounds and peaked under the hoods of literally a couple thousand carb muscle cars and hot-rods at the Syracuse Nationals. These guys have plenty of bank-roll and know-how, they can afford whatever carb they want, and they know what works. And you know what, there are a LOT of vacuum secondary Edelbrock carbs being used for exactly what they are intended for, a good street/strip carb that is easy to setup, use, and live with.

I'm ready for the impending flames.

BTW- 100% agreed, but carb type should have some consideration to converter stall speed. It would be reasonable to say a 750 Holley DP on a stock-ish 350 with a stock stall on a 700R4 w/ 2.73s out back would not be an ideal setup for a street driven car.

 

I don't know where this "Holley constant tuning" stuff comes from. It simply isn't true. It's no harder to tune a Holley than it is an Edelbrock, unless you can't get over having to drain the fuel bowls. The only tuning I've had to do with my Holley is when I go from 5800' elevation to sea level, and I can assure you you'll have to retune your Edelbrock under those conditions as well.

They are popular on show cars. I'll admit they look nicer. At the track, they aren't typically on the winning cars (I know of exactly one at our track - on a '64 primered Ford Falcon 289 that runs low-15's).

Really more to do with size than type. Vacuum and other demand-based secondary carbs (BTW, Edelbrocks aren't vacuum secondary) are a compromise to protect people from themselves who can't get it in their head that bigger isn't always better. If you want a street/strip cruiser (which is what the originator said he's after), then get a properly sized mechanical secondary carb.

Unless your EFI system is already up to the task.

 

never had a Holley that held a tune always had better luck with quadra junk carters an edelbrock an this vacume secondary on the thunder series rocks ive meet alot of Holley guys an i think they are just use to tuning because they are alot more senceative to wheather change

 

The Thunder series don't have vacuum secondaries either.

 

ok so how do they open? mechanical linkage? vacume? maybe just maybe i dont know whats on my car?

 

The secondary throttle plates are opened mechanically by the throttle linkage. The air door above them is controlled by adjustable spring tension, which is their main improvement over the Performer.

 

ok so you are sayin that if i crack the trottle to WOT that those secondaries open regardless to wheather the engine is running or not correct?

 

What they are saying is they are splitting hairs on a technicality. The secondary side of the carb is ultimately controlled by vacuum. The throttle butterflies in the secondary side of a performer carb are mechanical - so technically yes, the secondaries (if you call just the throttle blades the secondaries) open right up when you go to WOT. But the air valve above them of course does not open right up, its pulled open by vacuum when the load is sufficient enough. To the letter, a "true" vacuum secondary carb uses vacuum to control the secondary side throttle blades, and there is no air valve. The concept is exactly the same between an "air valve" carb like a performer or a qjet and a true "vacuum secondary" carb - they both are load based, and meter air based on vacuum. I don't think its a stretch to call a Performer or a Qjet a vacuum secondary carb, but some will argue otherwise.

Exactly my point - in a pure race application, of course they are not the best. For a street car that does a little racing duty every now and then they are a very good option indeed.

 

so you can see here i think its splittin hairs go with what you feel is right for you. its easy to argue whats best but what matters in the end is you are running up an down the streets/ strip giggleing like mad men.

 

ok, so i am planning a 83 build with my 86 vette L98 motor. i was looking into carb settup for bang for the buck and also ease of install and tuning. i am looking at running eagle rotating assy. with speedpro hyper. pistons. edelbrock performer RPM heads, RPM cam, RPM air gap intake man. and thunder series 650 cfm carb. looking to port/polish/gasketmatching heads and intake before install to open up for a little airflow because 170cc intake is a little small for 383. i am trying to get a little closer to 190cc, or as close as i can get. give me your questions/comments on this settup... it is not a daily driver, it is a cruiser and will probably take it to the strip very few times. just tryen to do a retro-resto on my first car, 1985 z28

 

I just did this swap, and sold my HSR to a member of this forum. I like my carb
setup now.

 

any replies to my future build?

 

It's off the topic of this thread. So, no, no replies to your future build in this thread.

 

Ok, here is what my car has-

originally 92 rs with tbi 305

swapped motor, trans, and rearend with 90 iroc.

leaving me with a basically stock l98, only headers. I didn't mention intake earlier because it is what is being changed.

stock 700r4, to be removed and replaced with th350.

stock IROC rear, with 342s posi and disks.

also, in the near future, I'm wanting to find some aluminum l98 heads, port them and cam the motor.

Thats the plan, basically here are the options I'm looking at:

intake:either performer RPM-maybe air gap. or somthing like weiand X-celorator.

for the carb, probly either a holley dp, like I suggested earlier or maybe a VS holley.

basically I want a setup for street/strip that will fit under a 3 inch cowl. Head and cam is in the future, Im Just not sure when, so I want somthing I can work with for now and will still leave room to mod down the road.

Thanks for all the input. It is very helpful

 

if cam and heads is in the future then a 750 double pump holley would be ideal. performer rpm air-gap and it'll fit under a 3" cowl