so if you know me ive been having no luck with my ccqjet at all its been stuck in limp home mode since i bought it and i could not figure out why ive tried almost everything i replaced o2 sensor and what not timing etc eventually i gave in and took it to a local repair shop to have the car coded because it would not code at home nothing no blink just solid check light well after aday w/o my car and about 100 bucks the mechanic told me my car would not communicate with their diagnostics thing but he set the timing a little better and got it to run a little less rich i was like ok kool went out started it drove home got home thing wont idle still smells terrible so im frustrated (thats the last time i take my car somewhere) so anyways i was thinking great my ecm is bad so ill just switch it for one i get at the yard for starters as i remove the fuse cover im lookin around and i notice a slot that says ecmign no fuse hmmm well lets see what happens when i put a fuse in start idles no check engine light any more wow things might be fine haha i guess the idiot never put a fuse in it so no ecm went and drove it for a min seems better gonna fill her up tomorrow and see what kinda mileage i get anythings better than the 10mpg i wasg ettin

 

Quite often, it's the obvious that escapes us.

Glad you found that. Hope it behaves now.

 

i spoke to soon the thing acts up just ad bad maybe worse it doesnt shift worth a crap and now its hard to start and the idles fluctuates so much compared to what it used to

 

Blow the fuse again? A bare wire somewhere can short to ground and blow the ecm fuse. If it's still good try to pull your codes.

Any history with this car?

 

oh sorry forgot to mention no codes show fuse is good car was 305 now has 350 from 1975 no emissions equipment that the kid before swapped under the ccqjet he did so much wrong lol thought i had it dialed in but it still barely starts timings good replaced o2 sensor possibly tps or i dunno maybe it have the wrong prom if so what do i need

 

Start with a basic function check. Is the carb clicking when the ignition is turned on? Does the check engine light flash 12 when the ALDL diagnostic leads are jumped?

 

the carb clicks constantly when the igniton is turned to the on position is this normal

 

Yes the clicking is normal. That's the Mixture Control Solenoid clicking up and down. The dwell, or down time per cycle, is varied by the ecm to control the mixture ratio. You'll likely need a dwell meter or scan tool (I just broke down and got an Autoxray 6000, yay) to diagnose and properly adjust your carb to the different motor. If the carb is gunked up and the plugs are still over the adjustment screws it's probably time for a rebuild. Alot of good stuff in this thread:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...tml?highlight=

 

thanx this car is possessed i swear because now when i press the brake the rear defroster comes on lol must crossed wires and i need to tune this i guess becaus eno check engine lights are on asnd it barely starts but when warm it idles kinda irratically liek its trying to adjust its self

 

alright ill try explain it a little better hopefully to help i went tried the o2 sensor test all i get is bouncy voltage from .001 to .218 im stumped then i check timing it flutters about an inch past the whole timing marker then when i unplug the orangish with a black stripe wire by the battery the timing stays steady at the fourth mark up from 0 im still getting no codes and i have no idea how to fix this thing thinking maybe i need rebuild and some new sensors i need help please cant afford to drive this thing anymore

 

Is the fuel vapor canister still there, in front of the windsheild wiper tank? If it is and it still has the check valve installed on the tank vent line, check to make sure that the small pressure control line that used to go to the PVC tube , is not capped off. If that control valve is capped off it won't let the fuel tank breathe, and the pressure in the fuel tank will build up and force the carb to flood. Especially when it sits in the sun, and not running.
The small orange and black stripped wire to the battery is probably the backup power source for the ecm (ie..key off position). If your checking the timing you need to disconnect the four wire weatherpak connector at the distributer, and check the timing with the trans. in Drive if its an automatic.You'll need a partner to hold the brakes for that.

 

Your timing is good. It will bounce around some with the EST still connected and disconnected should be between 0 and 4, and steady. Your O2 sensor is likely sending funky readings because it's seeing O2 values outside its range of measurement. Nothing so far indicates anything's broke but that's no guarantee. Adjusting your carb to the new/different motor may be all you need.

 

yea all the fuel canister is hooked up properly i think all lines are there all check valves are their im pretty sure its fine

now in order to tune the carb to the motor would that involve adjusting the iab, fuel mixture screws, and tps or is there more to it.

 

The idle mixture screws should be set to the book and left there, use the IAB to get the dwell where it should be. If you can't get the dwell to spec with the IAB, then you may need to move off the factory setting for the mixture screws.

You could add choke pull-off and AV tension to the list of tuning adjustments.

 

well i checked dwell im pretty sure i did it right and it checked out at 28 to 30 degrees so i left it alone i must just be paranoid about this whole car thing but i should be doin better than 12 mpg the o2 sensor thing still scared me a lil next check tps which is the three pronged pluggin right or is it the one wire thing with a plunger on it that pushes against the throttle

 

TPS is three wire connector, front of carb. Did the dwell vary when you choked the carb (with a rag)? Did the needle 'range' plus/minus a few degrees while it was running?

 

the dwell jump back and forth steadily between 28 and 30 when i choked the carb the dwell went to ten hovered there for a bit then worked back to normal sounds like everything you described

 

Looks like your computer is functioning fine and is operating properly in feedback mode. I would expect the dwell, however, to increase when the carb is choked (lean the mixture). Are you connecting your dwell meter to the green diagnostic lead near the firewall?

 

i looked and couldnt find the green connector so i just piggybacked the b wire on the solenoid then grounded the other end i thought that was right

 

Nah, we went through that a while back and it will give some false readings. Look for the green connector by the blower.

 

oh alright musta missed that part well ill look for it i was mad because i know somethigns wrong but evrything checked out i see why

 

i looked everywhere i found a four wire connector with like 2 green wires in it then i found one green wire in the main harness that goes to the ecm but no connector

 

Pic of connector is in this thread:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...ighlight=dwell
That's also the thread where Damon figured out that pulling dwell readings at the MCS was causing problems.

Wire should be a single, green wire. If you're unsure the easiest way is to just hook the positive lead of the dwell meter to it and see if it reads.
I was about to try to chase down the pin number it connects to at the ECM so you could do a continuity check,,,,but I got smarter. We can go there later if need be.

Did you ever post pics of this car?

 

nope but i will when i figure out how i think i can do it