Ok, so I've got a completely stock setup on my '86 Firebird 305 with the E4ME carb. I would like to replace my carb, preferrably with an edelbrock 550 or 600, but if I did would I have to worry about my trans. not receiving input from the carb?

Right now it feels as if my accelerator pump is gone because when punching it out of the hole or at low speeds it just bogs and goes to about 400 rpm and threatens to stall. I'm also having some idle problems where sometimes it'll be normal (around 800) and sometimes it'll go high (1300) in park.

But anyways, can I just change my carb. without much of a hassle, and do Holleys really make so much more power than Edelbrocks?
Thanks
-Vin

 

You can change the carb with some hassles, like a new intake, new distributor and dealing with the TCC lockup. Better would be to rebuild your stock carb.

 

ok, but can I tune my stock carb. to put out more power than from the factory? or swap in a different intake to make more power? It's just kind of embarassing having to say I'm pushing 155hp...

 

The stock carb and intake aren't what's holding you back. It's the exhaust, cam and heads, in that order.

 

See sig. Stock carb with different secondary rods & hanger. Putting out a lot more than 155 HP.

Your stock carb isn't the reason for 155 HP. Putting on an Edelbrock would be a downgrade in many, many ways. It's a silly waste of (what's for me, anyway) rare performance $'s.

Check out the 305 thread on the FAQ forum (differences between 305's and performance upgrades, or something to that effect). The carb is the very last thing that holds you back on performance. Ditto for a 350, even, so no way it's holding you back on a 305.

Sounds like you've got a case of classic "quadra-bog". From the thirdgen.org homepage, click on the tech articles link on the left margin, and look for an E4ME article (getting the most out of your computer controlled q-jet, or something to that effect). It's also linked from the "welcome to the carb forum" sticky in the top section of this forum.

 

any explanations for my odd idle?
Thanks for the tips guys

 

Alright, I did some reading and it seems to be the either the accelerator pump or the Primary metering rods. I'll have to check it all out but in the meantime, I've got a big airsoft game this weekend.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Both related to your choke.

Is the choke light coming or staying on?

The vacuum break, aka choke pull-off, has two functions: 1) Slightly open the choke butterfly right after the engine starts when cold; 2) hold the secondary air valve closed until vacuum drops to prevent a wide-open-throttle "bog". You're suffering from a disfunctional pull-off, which allows the AV to snap open too quickly when you floor it.

The high idle is caused by the choke high-idle cam not fully disengaging. There is a green weight on the passenger side of the carb - it's supposed to drop down as the engine warms up and the choke opens up. Yours is not fully dropping, causing a sometimes high idle.

Make sure you're getting a full 12 volts to the choke thermostat when the engine is running. If you are, either your choke mechanism is gummed up, or the choke thermostat is shot.

 

you had two moderators chime in and they are right

the q-jet is by far the best carb

and on top of that it is cheap to build and parts are everywhere

I just sold 3 carbs for around 300

and bought 3 q-jets for around 35