I just recently got my bird, the guy I bought it from said it has a 350 but didn't say what size carb or model it has on it. I know its a 4 barrel but that's all I know about it I'm new to the whole carb thing and would like some tips and info on what I have pleas help

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1405/

Cheeeeeeepest pile o dung you can get that it's legal to print "carburetor" on the box

Get rid of it and put something decent on there instead

 

I'm running a 1405, no problems at all. The 1405 is actually a tad more performance oriented than a 1406, but the 1406 comes standard with electric choke (which can be added to the 1405 for about $60. Easy carb to deal with, easy to tune/setup - a basic well-performing carb, especially for a person new to carbs.

 

PRoblems with those carbs:

• Fuel line doesn't fit... look at the fire hazard you have "hooking up" to it (I use the term loosely)
• Throttle linkage, esp. TV cable, doesn't work right unless you buy extra parts (can't tell for sure if that was done to yours); but that's why your cruise control is gone and the throttle cable is hooked to the cruise control lever instead of where it belongs
• No choke - totally user-hostile if you live where there's anything remotely resembling winter
• Less performance than either the stock carb the car had, or a Holley
• Stock air cleaner won't work which is why that abomination is on there

Then there's the way it's installed on the car, generally. You have no PCV valve so the motor will always smell like burning oil; there will always be oil on the valve covers and dripping everywhere; there doesn't seem to be a vacuum advance line, which leads to a suspicion that you have the stock computer-controlled distributor still there, in which case it cannot possibly create the correct timing curve because there's no TPS among other things; and did I mention, that rubber fuel hose and fall-apart filter rig is going to set the car on fire someday.

IMO you deserve better than that.

Other than that, I guess it's OK... but not my cup of tea, anyway. Others may have greater tolerance for something that unavoidably leads to a hack job like that.

All in all, if I had just bought a car and it came like that, that's one of the very first things I would tackle setting straight, right after changing the oil, trans fluid, rear end grease, brakes, plugs, and so forth; all the "new to me" maintenance.

 

That's what I wanted to know! What do you guys recommend? The guy said the motor has a cam in it but there is no lope (i know that don't mean anything) I do know the motor and transmission are fresh built. It's running headers and a performer intake if that makes a diff. The guy was a shade tree mechanic and I have found a lot of problems on the car (completely hacked the stock harness when he put the new motor in) among other things. I would like to have an electric choke if possible but don't need it. I live in ks so temps are constantly changing and fluctuating

 

If the car originally came with a carb, it would have been a Q-Jet; that would probably be my first choice. That's going to be real tough to duplicate and get really right, at this stage.

Failing that, next choice would be a Holley 6210. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/280702624992 Spreadbore, manual secondaries, double pump, direct bolt-up replacement for Q-Jets in certain earlier applications. This carb allows all your factory linkage to be easily hooked back up correcly, allows the original steel fuel line (missing in your case...) to be used, fits the stock air cleaner (also missing but not impossible to find a good one), etc. etc. etc. An electric choke kit is available for it. It would be easy enough to make a fuel line either out of steel brake line (identical to the factory part) or out of Teflon-lined braided stainless; if you go the latter route, MAKE SURE it's the Teflon stuff, not the regular, as the standard material is permeable by fuel like that rubber hose you have now, meaning the car will ALWAYS smell like raw gasoline.

And, you appear to need a different distributor; one with centrifugal and vacuum advance.

Details will depend somewhat on what the car is, what it came with, and what all has been hacked up how and how much.

 

i dont know if it had a carb or not. the wireing harnes has been compleatly hacked instead of just pulling it to the side as i would have done. the car is a 1986 and the block is a 70s model 4bolt main. if you need more info you can ask but i dont know much about it. i am planning on tearing out the rest of the wireing and i have a harness for an 84 T/A i plan on putting in. if i remember right all that harness is missing is the transmission wires or what ever else was under the car. like i said if i can get you any info that would help make the car right let me know i can try to help as much as i can. i plan on driving around with my kids and wife so i need it to be as dependable as possible.

what do you think about the holly 4175
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-0-80555C/

 

If the eighth digit of the VIN is H or G, it originally came with a computer controlled q-jet. It can be converted back to the stock ccc-qjet as that system will work fine on a slightly modified motor. It would, however, require some effort - especially in learning what everything is and how it works. I've done the hacked harness/bastard carb thing to back like original (nearly anyway) and wouldn't try it unless there's a pullapart near you. You'll get into it and come up with all kinds of little things you'll need, fittings, bolts, harness connectors, etc.

At the time I also had another camaro of the same model in the driveway to compare things to, which saved me on more than one occasion.

 

8th digit of the VIN will tell you what engine it came with.

What kind of car is it?

Before attempting swapping wiring around, define a goal. If you don't want to put a computer-controlled carb on it, you probably don't need to swap harnesses; rather, you need to peel back the big fat one that comes out of the pass side fender well, remove the clip from the inside (behind the kick panel) that holds it in, unplug it from the ECM, and put the harness UNMOLESTED and above all UNCUT (to the extent that it still is) and ECM in a box for future whatever. You'll need a new distributor.

I'm not a big fan of vac sec carbs at all. IMO the man sec one is a better deal all the way around if you go the non-computer route.

If you want to put the car back stock, you'll need to find ALOT of stuff that's been hacked off of it. A functional carb which will HAVE TO BE the stock one or a pretty close facsimile, maybe some sensors of various sorts, maybe other stuff, in addition to creating a completely functional harness. It's hard to tell how bad the car has been hacked up and therefore how hard/costly it will be to undo it.

It's a real shame that the A/C was one of the victims... IMO that's one of the single most cruel things that can be done to a car, is to hack that off. Instantly turns it from a nice cruise into a POS reeking of BO and full of road dirt and bugs and whatever other crap inside. Single best way to devalue a car. I hope you can get the parts to undo that hack as well.

 

ok so dont worry about the pass anger side harness? i do not plan on making it computerized at all. i would love to do away with the computer all together. there is just so many problems with the wiring inside and out(radio, interior lights, exterior lights, blinkers, ........) it goes on and on. so i have to do somthing. The previous owner cut all the ac wires and even the blower motor wires. if i dont need the passanger side wiring harness that would be awsome.

 

Pull everything out from the pass side fender. If it's a G model or a later H model the computer may control a helper, electric pump in the tank. If so, the harness will have a two wire connector to a pressure switch behind the dist, in addition to the single wire connector there for the oil pressure guage.

The computer will also have a connector going to the transmission. This controls the torque converter lockup (assuming you have an automatic). There is a sticky above the carb forum with some alternatives for controlling this feature without the computer.

The main engine harness connects to below the brake booster. Hopefully this one is intact. All guages go through this harness. No computer required.

The HVAC harness can be removed separate and complete. If yours is fubar you should be able to easily find a complete replacement and plug it in.

 

Wow - you guys really do hate Edel's huh?

To the OP - They really aren't as bad as these opinions are making them to be! I've had mine foir 5+ years now with no issues at all. Eveything mentioned can be corrected for about $50.

TV cable - simply get a Summit TV cable geometry corrector (which is also REQUIRED for a Holley carb on a 700R4) for $20

PCV - simply get one, and run that hose from the center front of the carb to it $10 maybe?

Rubber fuel line - not a problem - had mine for 5+ years with no issues (I would like to have "prettier" fuel lines, but wallet won't allow it right now). You might need a banjo fitting ($10) for the carb to change the angle of how the fuel line attaches to the carb - gives more clearance for fuel line with air cleaner.

Air cleaner - looks like the PO dented in the lid of the air cleaner for hood clearance, which the stud is the p-roblem, not the lid. There's probably a 1/2 inch p[lastic spacer under the air cleaner to clear the fuel line - which is avoided with the banjo bolt mentione4d above. The plastic spacers break from heat, and create the potential for de3bris to get sucked in around the filter - definitely look into that.

Distributor - if it has a vacuum canister on it, then simply run a vacuum line from the carb nipple front left of carb to the distributor. If it does not, then you'll need a vacuum advanced HEI distributor available at any parts store for about $125 - then connect that vacuum line after you get timing readjusted.

There's really nothing wrong with an Edelbrock carb at all - I promise. Alot of folks just don't like them - it's a personal preference, and thus this whole thread is opinion, not necessarily fact. Serious street/strip folks usually run Holley's because of the ease of rod/jet changes for fine tuning that extra 10th of a second - most all old school street guys (at least around here) run Edel's for ease of use and lower expense (if not running at the track every weekend, why pay alot for a fancy Holley?).

I know alot of you guys don't like Edel's - but honestly you should be ashamed of making the OP feel like he needs to spend another $500 just to make his car run decent, when in fact he simply has a few small issues to resolve with what he already has. Now - if the OP has a large wallet, and wants to spend like nobody's business, then that's fine - it's your cash, do what you will. But I just want to play Devil's Advocate here and restate that there's NOTHING wrong with what you already have - it just needs tweaked a little. I'm all about cheap - alot of guys are all about spending mega bucks for brand name stickers under the hood and the ability to say "I have such-n-such". OP - choice is yours - but what you have will run fine once tweaked, and you'll have more cash in hand for gears, suspension, etc.

OK - I'm out of it. Not meaning to offend you guys, I always value the thoughts/advise of TGO - but in this case, I felt it necessary to let the OP know what he has will work fine with no issues.

 

I got the same carb but the choke is removed by the previous owner. No problems starting it while cold just pump 2-4 times and crank. Then I just hold the gas for about 30 sec and off I go. The only thing I recommend is make sure the distributor vac is hooked up. I noticed cold starting and running much better with vac on the distributor. Here are some pics don't let the snobs get you down that is a fine carb for now just get the other stuff taken care of and you will be good to go for a while until you decide what you really want. Here are some pics don't mind the lack of distributor vac. Let me know if you want a close up of anything I would be happy to take some pics.

 

Thanks, what is the purpose of the coil on the fire wall? Just curious like I said I'm new to the carb stuff. My brother in law did a lot of this kind of stuff and had all this and that but I never asked questions. (boy these toys get up and move ) I enjoy riding in them and now I'm trying to figure it out. My pro in law died playing with these cars so I guess all this is to kinda keep him in memory.

 

He just has a seperate coil - some distributors have seperate coil from the distributor, some have the coil on the cap. It's all the same, and functions all the same.

 

You got it. I bought the car and it came with a MSD billet distributor and coil. Seems to run well so I decided to stick with it.