I just picked up a 1986 Z28.

I am used to fuel injection so I am not real familiar with this setup. Am i correct that this is just a plain carb and does it look like the stock 4bbl? When I review the RPO codes, this care was a 4bbl originally.

If not, please explain.

Right now the I have to remove the air cleaner and choke it to start it. Is swapping to a 600cfm or 650cfm electric choke a viable option?

 

Looks like it use to be a ccc setup but the carb has been replaced and the baro is laying on the manifold. I can't see that the dizzy was replaced I don't see a vacuum advance canister.

 

Hear is the entire engine bay. Can you better explain the terms? CCC setup?

[IMG][/IMG]

 

ccc= computer controlled carb
The mc mixture control solenoid is not on your carburetor.
your carb already has a electric choke

http://performanceolds307.tripod.com/id1.html

 

I do have the service engine light on and I am guessing that is because of the removal of the CCC. Like I said, the car runs.

I need to get is back to being able to turn the key and drive.

 

you can remove the mil or lamp driver

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=quadrajet+elect...oke+adjustment

 

Is this the correct look for the original CCC?

http://www.carburetion.com/Rebuilt/d...2088%2089%2090

 

yes looks correct has tps and mc solenoid. There are numbers on your carb on the drivers side at the base should start out with 170 or 702 this can be used to track back what the carb is off of thats on there now.

 

the engine or at least the heads look like they have been replaced. The valve covers are center bolt 55-86 were perimeter bolts. The engine id is on the back of the block on the drivers side. The suffix is stamped on the block on a flat pad behind the alternator. The egr is disconnected for the tvs. Not sure if you are in a emissions area or what your laws are there.

 

That's not the stock carb for the car; looks like it's off of an Olds 307 from the late 70s.

That fuel line and pump setup is a death trap. I'd be looking at doing something ... less .... sodomic .... about that, REAL soon.

Note that you have a non-computer-controlled carb, but a computer-controlled distributor. I'm betting the car is REAL LAZY feeling and runs hot.

 

Here is the CARB number. 7043250...

It is funny that you say hot and lazy. The car has its fan wired direct and the car is sluggish. I want to put the car back to the CCC since it can handle the 305 that is in the car or a mildly moded 350. A 350 upgrade is far off.

82-87 Camaro/Firebird fuel return line (V8/carb) stainless
82-87 Camaro/Firebird fuel vapor lines (V8/carb) stainless
82-92 Camaro/Firebird fuel line clip set (8 pc.)
Summit Racing Remanufactured Quadrajet Carburetors SUM-210216
1986 CHEVROLET CAMARO Right Stuff Detailing Fuel Tank FFT8207 (14 gallon)

I am not sure if the fuel pump is still in the tank though. I also remember the seller telling me that the cam does not have a fuel pump lobe. If I understand that correctly, then I need an electric fuel pump. Ideas on that?

 

I wouldnt waste you money on a rebuilt carb more than likely you have other issues back ecm bad o2s wiring. A vacuum advance hei are dirt cheap at the junkyard and on ebay.
if there is no lobe on the cam for the fuel pump it already has a electric fuel pump.

 

The car starts and runs. Just not a very safe setup. I would fell better getting the car back as close to original as possible

 

Find yourself a computer controlled Quadrajet, you can get them at Autozone or O'reillies, Summit or Jegs, or Jett Performance Products, or Cliffs High Performance. Hook it up, and see what you got. Then "SEARCH' the carb section here, tons and tons of info on how to tune it/look for the right stuff.

your carb is definitly and older style Qjet, they stopped doing the strait in front (dog nose) style input in the late 70's.

 

No, not true...

That's how the fuel line is plumbed on Buick and Olds V8s. Chevrolet Q-Jets have it going toward the pass side, like Tuned's, and the very first Chevy Q-Jets in about 1965 were like that; those others, it comes straight out to the front, like GOTO's, right up until the last Olds 307 rolled off the line in about 1986 or thereabouts.

I'd say in this case though, since it seems the ECM is missing (which is why it runs LAZY and HOT.... the timing is stuck at 6° or wherever the dist is set, with no vacuum or centrifugal advance whatsoever), this car has just simply been hacked on too much to be a worthwhile candidate for returning to stock. There's WAY too much missing and damaged and who knows what else. Probably best to just get a better carb (Holley 6210 would be my choice), a dist with the mechanical functions built in, and a regular block-mounted fuel pump; and then just clean up as much of that sodomy as possible.

 

Hmm...ok. Everything I've read about them points to them going to the "side mount" style that's on our cars, like the one I have in my TA. The Front snout pointed ones, came on earlier 70's models, nothing was mentioned that they were still used into the 80's. Good to know, thanks for the correction.

 

Without looking at it personally to see what's still there. It looks like the factory dizzy is still in place, could be they just pulled the old carb off and disconnected everything but left it in place.

However, I agree with Sofa, that if your goal is to just get it running for now, put a vacuum advance dizzy in, a new carb and run with it for now. then try and figure out "stock" once it's running, if indeed some/all/none of what you may need is present.

 

The Sodomy on this poor car was done prior to the guy I got it from. He did what he could to get it to this point.

With that said, I still think the fuel lines need to be replaced. On the bottom left front of the motor is a Moroso plate. Am I correct that the plate is where the fuel pump should be? Your suggested version actually makes some sense to me and should keep me from trouble shooting electrical and a computer.

I am going to replace the distributor and its parts also. I do not even want to monkey with them. I will also pull the plugs. Is there a reason you picked that specific Holley? (Just Asking, not debating.)

 

I think you all may have convinced me to put her into a carb fed powerplant.

 

What heads are in the car? Can you pull the valve covers and check the casting number?

 

That carb 'may' be perfectly fine on that motor with the correct dizzy. I'd try it with a mech/vac advance HEI before replacing it.

 

I can this weekend maybe. Is there an exact location I need to look? I can pull the drivers side one.

 

They are usually stamped in the middle somewhere here is an image search that may help locate them. If you know what your motor is you will be better able to select a carb and dist for it.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sbc+...MIbJ0QGq84DwBw

 

If you have doubts post pics we can tell you what you have

 

My guess is generic 350 truck replacement motor with flat tappet cam, swirl ports (and no fuel pump lobe). Just a guess, mind you.

 

The are center bolt so post 86 could be ok heads.

 

There is so much wrong with what can be seen in your pictures, it's hard to imagine what's wrong that we can't see.

I don't see any electrical connector for the choke, so I'm guessing the choke isn't working at all.

I'm hesitant to recommend exactly what you should do. Just too many unknowns. Most likely the easiest would be to use a vacuum/mechanical advance distributor as stated, and get the electric choke working.

 

This is a what a CCC Rochester Quadrajet on an '86 Z28 should look like minus the original factory LG4.

 

I am yanking the Quadrajet. All of you have pretty much said this is a rats nest of crap and troubleshooting is not going to be fun. I guess it is time for the basics. Am I crazy????

I cannnot afford a complete SB350 right now, so I need to get this thing straight. With that said, I am going to replace the intake and the Quadrajet.

I researched and selected these:
Edelbrock 2701 Performer EPS Intake Manifold
Holley 670 cfm Street Avenger Carb


The reason for these other than they seem to be a good combo, they both will work on a 350 build. I also read that the Holley 670 cfm Street Avenger Carb is a good fit for a 383 if I so choose. The Holley 670 cfm Street Avenger Carb is an electric choke too.

 

WOW!!!! Looks nothing like mine. Not even close. Even though this is a mess, I am happy that I saved a Z28 from certain death!

 

To me, from the pictures provided, the previous owner pulled the CC Qjet and installed a vacuum one. Your distributor appears to be the correct CC dizzy, you should have several connectors that are lying there disconnected. The easiest fix for "right now" would be a vacuum advance dizzy, leaving the all the electronics disconnected. Find the vacuum diagram on the site here, and use that to hook all your lines back up correctly. Take it slow, take it easy, and it'll come together.

We'll work with you, just don't go flying off the handle and blowing money you may not need to. Don't yank your carb, don't blow hundreds of dollars if you don't need to. Just find the stuff that's missing first. Use the pictures provided, search on this site, buy a "HELM" manual for it, and go to town.

 

You have been assured entrance into heaven my son.

 

or just dont bastardize it and fix it the right way,youll get much better results

 

Since the distributor in your pic has no vacuum advance can, being the original distributor from the car (or a reasonable facsimile of it), you're kind of at a fork in the road...

Either: find a carb of the correct type, repair all the wiring, sensors, solenoids, and whatnot, and get the whole electronic control system to work. Which, in a perfect world, would probably be the "best" choice".

Or: get a non-computer-controlled distributor, and a non-computer-controlled carb, that's not such a brutal involuntary sodomization, and de-computerize the car. IMO that's BY FAR the inferior option, but the "best" option above, may be beyond reach.

The reason I suggest that particular carb is, it's a spreadbore 650 CFM manual secondary direct Q-Jet replacement. It's for pre-computer ones of course, but given the situaion at hand, that's probably a better deal than trying to find a non-hacked-up, non-dissimilar-metal-corroded Q-Jet to rebuild. Those are getting REAL hard to come by any more. The dissimilar-metal problem IN PARTICULAR is not repairable, once it reaches a certain point, and has led to more bad reputation for that carb than any other single issue that I know of. Problem is, the spun-in plugs that seal off the holes in the bottom of the fuel bowl casting where they drilled into it, are not the same metal as the casting; and over time, they make a little "battery" where they touch the casting, which erodes the casting material. Turns the chinesium into a white powder. Once that happens there's no way, long-term, to keep the fuel from leaking out the bottom of the fuel bowl into the intake, which makes the motor run black-smoke rich at idle, and get gallons per mile instead of miles per gallon. NO AMOUNT of tuning can fix it. You can epoxy them over, and it'll last for a while; but sooner or later it'll return. There's other places that get it too; the screws that hold it together, the fuel inlet nut, the needle valve threads, and so forth. All, near impossible to restore.

Hence, a new carb.

Sad to say, but that may be the best hope for keeping that one away from the buzzard at this point in its unfortunate life.

 

Thanks again for all the info. This car is going to loose most of its computer control. I am not willing to spend months trying to figure out what was cut up and ruined.

I researched and selected these:
Edelbrock 2701 Performer EPS Intake Manifold
Holley 670 cfm Street Avenger Carb


The reason for these other than they seem to be a good combo, they both will work on a 350 build. I also read that the Holley 670 cfm Street Avenger Carb is a good fit for a 383 if I so choose. The Holley 670 cfm Street Avenger Carb is an electric choke too.

 

I'd go with what SOFA said, and sort of what you're deciding on right now. but do not get the EPS intake, I beleive that's for vortec heads.

For your car/hood combination, you want a regular Edelbrock Performer intake. I'd get a vacuum advance distributor and vacuum operated regular Qjet carb. this will get and keep it running "now".

DO NOT destroy your wire harnesses, you can find out what's missing, and slowly put it back together to get it back to the "original", properly working order.

 

Skip the manifold. It's no improvement over what you have now.

Add a new HEI distributor and the geometry corrector bracket for the TV cable.

 

Where in VA? If you're down in the Hampton Roads area I could plug you into my brother. He and I have fixed SO many hacked up 3rd gens it's like falling off a log to us. Everyone does some basic version of the disaster you have there. Hacked wiring, wrong carb and/or distributor. It never changes. Clueless "mechanics" must all get taught their trade at the same place or something!

You have 2 basic paths you can go from here:

1. Buy a computer controlled QJet carb and start repairing all the hacked up wiring and vacuum lines.

2. But a non-computer controlled HEI distributor and go "old school" with no computer controls. Don't know if you have to pass emissions in your area or not, but if you do this is a non-option for you.

FYI- Qjets with the "straight forward" fuel inlet are all BOP carbs (Buick/Olds/Pontiac), regardless of year. Chevy and Cadillac carbs all used the side inlet.

 

I am in Hampton Roads (Norfolk). That offer is a great help. This is an emissions state, but I am not making this car a daily driver nor will it be inspected.

Long term the car will receive a 383.

 

Wow, you're pretty close. He's up off J Clyde Morris a few miles north of where it crosses I64. Yorktown area.

Shoot me a PM and I'll see about getting you plugged into him.

 

I was able to get a video with sound of the car running.

 

 

Can you point me to a distributor? I found these two and tehy seem to be what you are suggesting.

Summit Racing® Blueprinted HEI Distributors SUM-850001R
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet
MSD Street Fire HEI Distributors 8362
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ms...make/chevrolet

As for the fuel pump is the what GPH is going to be right for this car?
I looked at this one.
Summit Racing® Mechanical Fuel Pumps SUM-250020-1
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet

 

Don't go for the fuel pump yet until you've verified that you have the lobe on the cam:

"I also remember the seller telling me that the cam does not have a fuel pump lobe."

Take the block off plate off and first see if a fuel pump push rod will slide up. Some blocks aren't bored for one. Then you'll have to get someone to turn it over manually while holding it in there to see if the lobe acts on the rod.

If you can run a mechanical pump, get one specific for your vehicle. One that has the return port. The Carter GM6626 at $24 is a good choice.

The less expensive Summit dist would be fine for your application.

 

The rod does not move. So it seems that the owner was correct. I guess I will stick with the electric pump. Where are some safer locations for this thing? Can it be put on the frame under the car?

 

Yeah, you can put an in-line pump on the frame rail. Or you could drop the tank and install an in-tank pump for a super-clean install. It'll be a high pressure unit in either case, so you'll need a return style regulator like the Mallory used by many on this board (including 3 or 4 times myself). #4309, if I recall correctly.

 

I burned up 3 Holley inline pumps before I broke down and put an in-tank pump in my car. Apparently, when the pump stops, the fuel goes back up the line and into the tank. Every time you start the car, the pump primes, and it takes 2-5 seconds or so for fuel to come back through the lines (up out of the top of the tank by the stock routing) to the pump which means the pump is running dry and getting really hot.

The only way to minimize this is to install a sump in the bottom of the tank that gravity feeds the pump.

Or, install an in-tank electric pump. Take a bit, but once you do it it's not that hard. Almost 2 years on my pump now and no issues with it.

As Damon said though, you must run a regulator with it. 4309 sounds right.

 

Any fuel pump recommendations?
I would rather go the in tank route. Hell, for all I know the prior owner left the fuel pump in the tank.

 

I finally got some pieces to this puzzle. I have a MSD 8362 Distributor ordered. It is has the vacuum advance you guys told me to get.

Question.. Can it be installed and work with the QuadraJet shown in the picture?

This car is NOT going to be computer controlled. I already have an Edelbrock intake (not installed)

 

Yes, it will work with your existing carb-provided the carb's in functioning condition of course.