EFI to Carb using in-tank pump
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Car: 1983 Firebird Convertible
EFI to Carb using in-tank pump
Ok, first post here. I am looking for advice on what to do with my EFI to carb sending unit, pump, lines, etc. The tank is out right now, and the fuel lines are gone. The person before me had hacked up the lines with a in-line fuel pump instead of replacing the pump in the tank.
One very important aspect of this topic is that I plan on installing a FAST EFI system a couple of years down the road, but for right now I will use a carburetor. I will be running a built chevy 350.
I'm assuming the best route is to:
-new high performance in-tank fuel pump
-new efi tank sending unit
-new fuel line to carburetor
-new return line
After using the sending line and return line, there are two lines from the sending unit; EVAP and relief valve. What is the best way going about this? Can I purchase the same/stock relief valve and use that? What do I do about the EVAP? I don't want to have a vented fuel cap that will stink up the garage. I also don't want to run the EVAP to the carburetor with vacuum lines. I just want to utilize the EVAP line from the sending unit to take care of the gas smell. Also, do I need a purge valve on the EVAP canister?
I guess I'm trying to figure out the best way to go about this. Am I heading in the right direction? Any suggestions?
I would really appreciate everyone's input! Thanks!
One very important aspect of this topic is that I plan on installing a FAST EFI system a couple of years down the road, but for right now I will use a carburetor. I will be running a built chevy 350.
I'm assuming the best route is to:
-new high performance in-tank fuel pump
-new efi tank sending unit
-new fuel line to carburetor
-new return line
After using the sending line and return line, there are two lines from the sending unit; EVAP and relief valve. What is the best way going about this? Can I purchase the same/stock relief valve and use that? What do I do about the EVAP? I don't want to have a vented fuel cap that will stink up the garage. I also don't want to run the EVAP to the carburetor with vacuum lines. I just want to utilize the EVAP line from the sending unit to take care of the gas smell. Also, do I need a purge valve on the EVAP canister?
I guess I'm trying to figure out the best way to go about this. Am I heading in the right direction? Any suggestions?
I would really appreciate everyone's input! Thanks!
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
From: N. Ky
Car: 86 T/A - 70 Z28/RS
Engine: Broke - 350
Transmission: 700R4 - M22
Axle/Gears: G80, 2.73 - ZQ9 G80 4.10
Re: EFI to Carb using in-tank pump
Since your sending unit is all hacked up I would get a new one and I guess you don't want to drop your tank again to install the new Hi-Perf fuel pump so you are taking care of that now.
You don't need a new fuel or return line right now. Just a by-pass regulator for the carb. They sell fittings that use compression fittings on one side and AN on the other to go from the steel lines to new braided hose lines.
The stock relief valve should be fine.
You say you don't want fumes in your garage but not using the EVAP canister will still cause this since the tank has to be vented someway.
You don't need a new fuel or return line right now. Just a by-pass regulator for the carb. They sell fittings that use compression fittings on one side and AN on the other to go from the steel lines to new braided hose lines.
The stock relief valve should be fine.
You say you don't want fumes in your garage but not using the EVAP canister will still cause this since the tank has to be vented someway.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Car: 1983 Firebird Convertible
Re: EFI to Carb using in-tank pump
Well the tank is dropped right now, stock lines are gone, and transmission and motor is out. I plan on doing what I have to do right the first time so I don''t have to go back and re-do anything. So a new sending unit, fuel pump, and send/return lines are a must. My main concern is what to do with the line from the sending unit that used to go to the EVAP?
Should I:
-Cap the EVAP sending line from the sending unit and use a vented gas cap?
-Install a charcoal canister?
If I do install a charcoal canister, how do I go about it? Do I have to have lines running back to the carb/intake? I just want to make it as simple as possible.
Should I:
-Cap the EVAP sending line from the sending unit and use a vented gas cap?
-Install a charcoal canister?
If I do install a charcoal canister, how do I go about it? Do I have to have lines running back to the carb/intake? I just want to make it as simple as possible.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
From: N. Ky
Car: 86 T/A - 70 Z28/RS
Engine: Broke - 350
Transmission: 700R4 - M22
Axle/Gears: G80, 2.73 - ZQ9 G80 4.10
Re: EFI to Carb using in-tank pump
Simple would be remove the EVAP line from the car, do what racers do for a vent line. Take a line and coil it a few times vertically so that fuel doesn't come out if the car turns over and put a filter on the end of the line to keep dirt and other debris from getting into the line.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
From: N. Ky
Car: 86 T/A - 70 Z28/RS
Engine: Broke - 350
Transmission: 700R4 - M22
Axle/Gears: G80, 2.73 - ZQ9 G80 4.10
Re: EFI to Carb using in-tank pump
Got interupted and had to post quick...
I wanted to add, on our 10 sec race car we had 1/2" aluminum fuel line which the AN size is -8. Typical passenger cars are 3/8" (AN, -6). For most systems I've seen they recommended a -6 return line for a -8 supply.
I wanted to add, on our 10 sec race car we had 1/2" aluminum fuel line which the AN size is -8. Typical passenger cars are 3/8" (AN, -6). For most systems I've seen they recommended a -6 return line for a -8 supply.
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