First let me explain my goal - I want to eliminate the majority of electronics in my engine at least in regards to the fuel and timing. Basically a ECM delete and A.I.R. delete.

1983 Camaro Sport Coupe with a 2.8L V6

Before I get a million responses as to why I should not do this for a million different reason please just indulge me

Here is what I have done thus far. (keeping in mind I am car savvy but in no way a full on mechanic, I am a computer tech by trade).

I removed the A.I.R. system - this was fairly easy blocking off all the holes and such. I did this on my Ford with no issues. So that part is all done.

I purchased a Varajet II carb brand new for a Chevy S10 - same exact carb as the one that was on there minus the CC throttle position sensor and the CC air fuel mixture. I also purchased a non-CC vacuum advanced distributor that goes with the carb. I double checked that the firing order on the S10 is the exact same as the firing order for my Camaro. I also got the gasket for the carb.

I plan on leaving the EGR in place so that was not removed in removing the A.I.R. system I planned on connecting that vacuum line to the carb.

I pulled the carb and the valve covers (those gaskets needed to be replaced as well) once I got the carb off I took pictures of the distributor position and pulled the distributor as well. I installed the new distributor lined it up compared to my picture that went just fine.

Installed the valve covers with the new gaskets and then put the carb on. connected everything up and I try and turn it over and it almost acts like it is trying to start but never actually starts. Turns over all day long but no starting.

I checked to make sure that I have the coil pack connected properly, the vacuum advance is connected up to the carb on the front, also the EGR is connected to another front port on the carb. I have 1 port on the front of the carb capped. The large port on the back is going to the PCV valve (new) and the side port above where the fuel comes in leads to the air filter.

Spark plug wires are all connected - I did take a picture of how they were on the distributor prior to my work (labeled them with a sharpie) and connected them back in the proper order. I even looked up the firing order picture and compared to what I have and I have that correct.

I the only electrical connectors I do not have connected are the ones from the A.I.R. system and the two from the old carb.

I tried some starter fluid to see if it was just a lack of gas getting to the carb and when I did I get a pop and it ejects out the top of the carb. No ignition though. If I try and ride the starter and let it just keep turning over I get a couple sputters but that's about it it just cranks and does not start.

I really don't want to put it back the way it was but will if I have to I really want my car to run

I am looking for alternate things to check here as to why it is not firing up. I expected to have to tune it once I got it running but at this point it is not even trying to run

I can take pictures if I have to but not really to much to show, it looks as I have explained it above.

Any help on this would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

 

You said you aligned the distributor per the original one. Did you align the housing AND the rotor, so their RELATIVE position was the same? All it takes is one gear tooth off to get a no-start like you describe.

 

That's what I was afraid of from what I have been reading up on. So I guess my best case here would be to pull the distributor, set the engine to top dead center and drop the distributor back in on the #1 position right?

Yes I aligned the housing and the rotor so that it matched up, but like you said I could be 1 tooth off. Plan on trying that this weekend.

 

Make sure when you put it on TDC that your on the compression stroke. The engine has 2 TDC's. The timing tab lines up on both of them. Easy way to tell is stick a rag or paper towell I'm the no1 plug hole and slowly rotate the engine until it blows it out, then line up your mark.