keeneth73

I am reposting this here from the engine section since maybe its a carb issue too
Hey guys I had a problem with my car. I will be going about 40 mph coasting and when I want to accelerate to speed up the cars rpm dies for a second or two before reving up and gaining speed. I did some research on the problem and found it could be any number of things. i did a pretty basic tune up: rotor, cap, plugs, and the fuel filter. So after everything was installed and correct I took it on a ride again to see if it was fixed. Now its almost worse! I can feel more power when I take off from the new plugs so thats always good but when i get around 4000-5000 rpm the engine stutters and acts up. now i heard it might be a carb issue, to take it apart and put it back together with clean kit and gaskets (or have someone do it) oh and that was from the autozone guy. i come here for better help and hopefully help from someone who had the same problem.
-i got the car about a month ago
-guy said it was sitting a while with fuel stabilizer and what not.
-guy said he took care of the car like his baby...but when i look under the hood there was a lot of jerry rigging going on. like the clutch relay was taken out and put into a switch so that the car could start with out the clutch (the wire was crappy and put together with tape and ugh... hate to be cliche but if youre going to do the job....do it right!)
-new plugs (god those things suck to put in)
-the gas relay to the charcoal box (or something) that goes into the carb has been capped off since there is no emissions here in arizona. some reason there was gas in the hose. the hose was dried out and crumbly so we just capped it off at the carb.
-305 5.0L engine v8
-Holley carb (dont think it came with the car)

Damon

If it's falling on it's face in the upper RPMs, that's almost always a fuel delivery issue. A new fuel filter (which is located in the nose of the factory QJet just behind where the fuel line attaches) is ALWAYS the first thing you replace before you start digging deeper for a solution.

Nobody knows that's where the fuel filter is located, so it never gets replaced. Its probably plugged solid as a brick if nobody has paid any attention to it for a couple decades.

keeneth73

yeah, that was the first thing to change. up front i was surprised that it was up front lol.

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

alot of people do half conversions to non emissions and end up with poor running. if its got a holley carb most people dont tune it or mess with the ign. the ign is likely the 4 wire still. and alot of times you will find vacuum leaks from half removed sensors and tubes and crap. really have to decide stock or no and go all the way. to me if its already got a holley leave it, plug the vacuum ports, get a vacuum advance distributor. then you can tune the carb with the holley sticky in this section.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Well, both Damon and JWFirebird are right.

if it has a Holley carb, does it have a non-electronic distributor (Does it have an old vacuum advance dizzy?) If not, it'll never run right.

On my car, I totally removed that filter, it really helped, but also it sounds like you have an adjustment issue. I'm not a holley guy, so I really can't help you with tuning it.

Are you sure it has a holley or does it have the Qjet? Can you take a picture and post it?

keeneth73

yeah absolutely, ill take pictures in the morning and see whats up. it says holley on it. i talk to another guy and he said it wasnt the best made from holley, i got the distributor running finally it was from another engine so i had to turn it to the right one spot. i tuned her up a bit and shes running better now, but the choke isnt right. im not sure if its electrical or what. anywho pics to come soon!

keeneth73

alright so

keeneth73

alright soooo i uploaded some pics, first time uploading and it doesnt seem right lol... but anyway. first one is just the engine bay. bottom right is the charcoal stuff that i just took the line out for. second one is the top of the carb. its a holley :P third one shows that engine without the air cleaner and the fourth is the front showing the idle screws and last one is the passenger side showing the linkage and what not. thanks for the help so far guys.

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

looks like a 4360, holleys attempt at a quad apparently not a good one. going to be unique and not follow any of the standard holley tuning threads or be able to get parts if you need them. the choke is vacuum, there is likely a procedure to set it with engine vacuum warmed up at idle. not the best setup there either, when you step on it the vacuum goes away and the choke closes by the looks of it. for a standard stock 305 you probably want to find like a 4-600 holley 4160 so you can get parts and easy advise and tuning.

keeneth73

yeah thats what i heard from someone else too :/ guess thats my next upgrade is a new carb

keeneth73

or should i go tpi? :P

MSgt Luttrell

A properly tuned 4160 Holly will purr like a kitten on a 305. I'm running a Holly 4160 with an electric choke, on a performer RPM Intake in my 86 IROC and it runs great.

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

tpi is expensive if you are talking aftermarket and too complicated a swap if your talking retrofit thirdgen crap. a carb is fairly cheap and if tuned properly will run and start as well as a tbi at least. the gains on efi are fairly negligible compared to the cost.