I have read hours of threads so please don't flame me. Thinking of doing the carb/distibutor swap. Would like to swap intake also. I would like to start eliminating the smog equipment.

1. Can I start to eliminate a few of the emission pieces at a time (EGR valve on new intake) or will this screw things up as far as how good the car runs.

2. I have a 355 short block on stand in garage that will some day go in car with headers and would like to use the new carb and distibutor again. Thanks. Respect

1987 firebird LG4, 700R, bone stock, car is loaded every button works even rear defog and cold ac. Thanks. Respect.

 

Are you still running the factory computer set up?

 

I've just gone through this on the weekend. If you're going to do the dist and carb swap you might as well ditch the EGR while you're at it.

I basically pulled one at a time.
1. pulled cc distributor, put the new non cc in there, got it timed enough to run.
2. pulled the carb
3. pulled the EGR as i had access to it. blocked it off
4. put the new carb on and start blocking all the vac ports
5. get it started and tune it from there.

Dont go for big bang, if you do it in this sort of order you are only really playing with one system at a time and not dealing with spark timing and an untuned carb at the same time.

I grabbed an old Quadrajet off a 73 pontiac and rebuild that (1.5 hours with a kit taking your time) goes pretty hard now.

 

1. It's illegal to remove emissions, federal law. That said...
2. Are you going with a CCQjet or old school vacuum distributor?
3. Keep your EGR connection. Block off the port. If the connector is disconnected it will throw a code. Otherwise it's not needed.
4. Get a smog pump delete pulley. You can find them on Ebay for about $80. This way you can keep the factory serpentine belt. If you run Vbelts, just get a smaller belt.
5. You need to keep the 02 sensors or you'll throw codes unless you disable the ECM totally. Also, you need it to run the CC Qjet.
6. If you disconnect the ECM, you must get a TCI lockup kit to run your 700R4 or you'll burn it up.
7. Keep the PCV for venting purposes to recirculate crank gasses.
8. You can plug your Charcoal cannister. Make sure you plug it though or you will get bad gas smell in the cab/front of vehicle.

 

If you do swap to a non cc carb and distributor don't forget to remove the check engine light in the cluster lol.

 

Back when I did the swap and removed all the emissions crap I put a toggle switch for the lockup. Now are you really going to remember to lock up the torque converter ?

 

Lol, i did my swap a while back and i still havent pulled this fricken bulb yet. Every time i get into the car im like "i really need to to that"

 

I left my bulb in my 84 to let me know computer has power to it.. It controls the radiator cooling fan only. Should probably put in new cooling fan relay and pull check engine bulb. LOL

 

Theres a few good kits out there for that which is nice. Pretty simple pressure switching dealios

 

September of 2016 since you posted this.
If you have not changed anything yet here is my 2 cents.

I prefer the performer rpm intake for my SBC's.
I do not like the Performer intake, it has a flat floor. there are benefits to a "waffled" floor. Keeps fuel atomized better.

I would run a Qjet intake before I would run a Performer intake.
I plenum ported an iron q jet intake and it made 20HP more than a marine Q jet intake.
The Performer RPM made 10 HP more than the plenum ported intake.
2 carbs were tested..a 750 edelbrock and a 750 Q jet.. there was 10HP difference between carbs when tested on the different intakes.

This was a 350" with 268H with earlier closing intake valve than the 260H and ported 601 heads, 225 psi cranking pressure ..Ported log ex manifolds full length 2.25" exhaust.



If it was my car I would go RPM intake and stock GM HEI Or points housing with pertronix conversion.

And if it was my 355" I would use the 601 heads and Bowl port them and unshroud the chambers a bit. And I would straighten the pushrod pinch a little.

I have ran a lot of bowl ported 305 heads and even the 1978 era with 17? -1.50 valves can stick a 3000 lb car into the 12.50's with a medium cam like the 280H comp magnum, with a gear and sticky tires.

You have some potential parts there for really good running vehicle.
You need to know how to tune stuff though.. just swapping parts on and off does not usually cut it.

 

No it wont. The lockup function just wont work. a 4l60e must have the electronic connection connected, but not a 700r4.

 

lock up function significantly reduces heat within the transmission that would otherwise develop from slippage at the converter.

I have read, but not confirmed, that early 700s required lockup in order to route oil through the cooler lines.

 

and if the car runs good now, you won't see any gains from the swap to mechanical carb/dist.

and the stock system will run fine on top of a mild 350.

 

Reduced life, okay, I'll buy that. Run an aftermarket cooler.

I was worried about this years ago when I bought my 88, which was a hack job when I got it. After all I read, I ran it for a couple years without lockup. Then ended up building and wiring my own circuit in. Which I would recommend the OP to do as well. Much cheaper then buying a kit and it still functions automatically so you don't have to remember to hit a toggle switch.

Now if some oddball first year 700r4 had no cooling unless in lockup, I don't know. Sounds like a recipe for disaster right off the showroom though.

In short, lockup will reduce heat in the fluid, which can increase transmission life. But still is not like a 4l60e that will "burn up" if left unhooked.

Of course the OP hasn't been on the site since OCT 2016.


EDIT: Naf, this thread here has a few comments on the cooling flow in/out of lockup. I am curious the answer now. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...n-700r4-3.html

 

'87 has a dedicated V-belt for the A.I.R. pump. All you need to do is remove it.

 

Not good enough. You'll burn out the 3-4 clutch pack. Might seem okay for awhile, but you'll lose the 2-3 shift at WOT.

Get the lock-up functional.

Having said all that, I'd recommend keeping the CC q-jet.

 

And make sure your TV cable is always connected and adjusted correctly! If not you will burn up the 700R4, That is what controls the line pressure because there is no vacuum controlled modulator valve like the TH350's and TH400's had.

 

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EDIT:

After doing a lot of internet searching, there are a lot of people like myself that got away with not running lockup.

BUT, there is also several people that basically claim the following:

Which makes sense with why in one of Dana's posts he mentions making some valve changes if you run a non-lockup converter.

Looks like I was wrong and misunderstood some information out there.