Had my alternator tested and I will post the results. Does it look ok? My choke light is on and off. It use to idle high. I adjusted the choke and throttle stop but it needs a little more adjustment. The light will stay on at times.
can I eliminate the alternator and the brand new battery as a issue? What order of things should I test?
83 ta, daytona lg4 66k
thanks

 

Can you verify your choke is actually working? Does it feel hot on the side after a few mins? Did you test voltage on the one-wire connector? It heats a bi-metal spring that retracts the primary choke flap. Maybe the insulator on the inside of the bi-metal is deteriorated??

I had to (carefully) drill out the rivets on my choke to gain access to it. In addition, on my qjet, I noticed the connector didn't "bite" down hard enough on the single spade-pin. I had to fix it in order to get my choke light to intermittently go off.

I'd also test your voltage at your battery during idle. I don't think your alternator is bad...but the choke light does double as one.

 

I get 12 volts at the battery. At the choke wire I get 14.4? With the wire connected to the choke I get 3.3 on the post from the choke.

 

Sounds confusing...
With car running and everything hooked up properly, you should be getting 14.2 volts AT the battery. This should be nearly the same on your choke single wire connector. 3.3 volts at the choke wire doesn't sound right....

 

I originally got 14.4 on the battery with it running. The choke didn't seem to get warm. The choke seems loose? I lost a lot of volts from the wire to the post, loose connection?

 

Yeah, check the connection from the ALT to the battery. Also the voltage sense wire to the regulator. I think you got something squirrely going on. The choke wont fully operate unless it sees higher voltage than resting battery voltage.

 

I am getting 14.4 volts on the wire connection to the choke. I plug the wire onto the choke and on that I get 3.3 volts. I replaced the choke plug wire and the same. Is my choke not working correctly?
I had to adjust so it would close but it revs high and the choke light stays on. The light stays on until the engine is up to temp AND I shut it off. When I restart the light will go out and idle fine.

 

Familiarize yourself with this circuit diagram (middle top). Is your choke circuit connected correctly? I question your measurement of 3.3 volts....

 

I question your 3.3v measurement as well. Make certain you are using an auto ranging DMM.

 

Can i remove the choke and run the car until winter when I can dedicate more time to it? Will it run well other than cold starting?

 

Hi, I had the same problem. I had 14 volts to the choke relay and only 3 volts to the choke heater. I have the 305 carb with the mechanical pump and a pump in the tank that prevents vapour lock. The choke relay gets it signal 12 volts from the pump relay. The relay in turn gets its power from a oil pressure switch behind the distributor. Bottom line the pressure switch was bad. Replaced it and all is well now.

There are two pressure switches back there, one for oil pressure gauge with one wire and the fuel pump relay with two heavy wires.

Louis

 

Thanks, I will check this tomorrow

 

Another question, every time I hit the gas the choke closes. I hit it open with my finger and it idles fine. Any ideas?