Hey all,

Had the original carb from my 1984 Trans Am 305 professionally rebuilt. I think it is the E4ME . (QuadraJet # is 17084205 on the unit)-pictured below. I had Two questions I was seeking your advice on:
1. Their is an 'extra' wire (yellow) coming from the same harness as the Blue wire (which connects to the Solenoid). It is just hanging their with no connection (or Male end to connect to). Any idea what this wire is for??
2. I want to replace the actual Solenoid itself. My local Carb shop wants $130 for this (seems very high). I want to order this online, but dont know if anyone has a vendor preference or part number. I am sure I can buy it online for less.



Let me know your thoughts
Thanks in advance,
Frank

 

The yellow wire doesn't look factory to me. Trace it back and see where it goes.

I don't recall that solenoid ever being cheap. Might want to check Rockauto and the various other usual suspects such as parts stores. They almost never go bad though; in fact it looks like that one is working fine.

 

And yes, that is model E4ME... 4M = Quadra-Jet, the 1st E means Electronically controlled, the E at the end means Electric choke.

 

Hi @sofakingdom
I tested the solenoid at the local carb shop, and it was dead. I went to rock auto and ordered a new one-but it doesnt work properly. In talking with the knowledgeable rep, he told me I ordered the "H" code solenoid, but I needed the "G" code-based on my VIN. I asked to order that and they dont carry it.
I looked around, and now it seems everyone carries the H code one (but no G). Anybody know an exact part number for the proper solenoid, and perhaps where I can order one? I have tried a lot of different sites, but no luck
Frank

 

the carb between the H and G models are essentially the same. the carb body, which includes the solenoid mount and position of the throttle stop, are identical.

I don't remember, nor can imagine, that there are any differences between the bump stop solenoids.

how is that solenoid not working?

 

Describe "dead" in more detail.

 

Hey all, So I went ahead and ordered another solenoid Idle Stop, and in all frankness-they look the same. Anyway, i installed it on my newly rebuilt carb and it started right up. Unfortunatley, it then died. Same thing over and over. I adjusted the idle kicker screw outward a bit and all it did was start at a higher RPM before dying. While running, the car sounds great. But, I cant get it to idle down to normal-just dies. Also, once it dies, I hear a loud 'clicking' sound now. Goes away after a few seconds.
So question is (before I start trying to adjust everything there) what are the best troubleshooting steps? Just dont want to mess up the carb I just paid to have rebuilt.
Thanks
Frank

 

If the "clicking" is the mixture control solenoid, then it's normal. Yeah its kinda loud but that's just how it was back in the day.

When you turn the key to On without starting the car, the solenoid should "click". Should make maybe 8 - 10 clicks per second for maybe 30 seconds then stop.

As far as troubleshooting, sounds to me like it isn't getting enough fuel; like perhaps, the level in the bowl is too low. Might not hurt to pop the air horn off and see how much fuel is actually in there.

 

Will do. If i feather the gas it will stay running. Just when I stop it dies

 

has this newly rebuilt carb been adjusted for proper dwell?

 

Hi Naf,
Being I literally just got the newly rebuilt carb home, I simply installed it and tried starting it-No real adjustments made. I thought this was a idle kicker issue, but I dont think that is the case. It sounds like a fuel issue to me.
In all honesty I am not good with carbs. Hence why i had it rebuilt. Guess what Im saying is Im a bit of a rookie here, and need to learn the basic tuning steps. LOL
Frank

 

Anybody have any advice? Beautiful weekend and Im looking to get the TA out on the road. Im stumped!

 

Anyone??

 

This is not a matter of "tuning". It is a question of, find and fix the DEFECT. Then and only then, can any "tuning" begin.

You can't "tune" a carb if there's no fuel coming to it. Find and fix the fuel delivery issue if that's the case.

You can't "tune" a carb if there's a giant vacuum leak. Gotta fix it first.

And so on...

Posting on the Internet will not fix your car. The best we can do from out here is guess stuff. Sometimes a symptom is so obvious we can guess the right thing right away. That's more likely when something has just broke or worse out. Once somebody's d*** skinners have been inside something though, it's MUCH harder to guess right, unless we recognize a similar mistake from the past.

We're all out of guesses. We can't see the car or hear it or touch it or do things to see what happens. Only you can do this. We've told you what to do and what to look at. I'm not seeing where you've done the obvious things, like, check the fuel level in the bowl. We can't help you if you won't help yourself.

 

not really sure where you are with your carb? sounds like maybe you're assuming the solenoid should control the idle speed?

for clarification the idle kicker is not intended to regulate the curb idle speed of the carb. it only provides a little bump up in idle speed under certain ecm and electro/mechanical conditions, such as AC or power steering load or decel to reduce emissions, it will even bump up the idle speed when the ESC is unplugged and timing is then reduced. DO NOT think that this solenoid will govern normal idle speed. Under normal idle conditions it should not be engaged. Go ahead, disconnect it and forget about it while working your curb idle issue.

familiarize yourself with the carb sticky that includes the basic set up instructions and checks for the qjet.

check your choke function. the blades should be near closed when cold and slowly open as the engine runs (fully open within 5 minutes or so).

the choke pull off should slightly open the choke once the engine starts and it sees vacuum. you can take the small section of vac line off, press in the plunger, cover the vac nipple and the plunger should stay in until you remove your finger.

with the choke engaged, pressing the throttle all the way down will allow the fast idle cam to engage and hold open the throttle slightly above the curb idle set screw. this gives you high idle during warm up conditions. it will not disengage until the choke is open (normal to the horizon) AND the throttle is pressed again allowing the cam to drop.

locate the curb idle adjustment, spin it up some and see if you can get it to idle once the choke is off.

dicker around with it some but don't change any settings just yet. let us know some history, why was the old carb removed and how did it fail? (maybe it wasn't a 'carb' issue)

 

Thanks Sofa and Naf. I am learning alot. I will take your guidance and go through it this weekend. Appreciate the help!
Frank

 

Hi @sofakingdom and @naf ,

I had a buddy come over and he checked and it might have been a stuck float. We were able to free it with a wd 40 red nossle stick. She running now, albeit a little rough. Also the choke light is on and wont go off. Whats a good need step here? Want to take this step by step....

Frank

 

The "Choke" light doesn't really mean the "choke" is faulty.

It REALLY means that the ALTERNATOR isn't working.

The choke's electric circuit is designed in such a way that the choke will not receive power, which pulls it off (causes it to quit choking as the engine warms up), unless the ALTERNATOT is supplying power. Simply turning the key On for example, will NOT supply power to it, and it will remain in "choke" mode more or less forever.

Fix your alternator now.

One defect at a time; you'll get there. Eventually you'll be able to begin "tuning". If in fact it turns out that the car even really needs that. Maybe it's just got so many defects ATM, you can't even tell what its state of "tune" is.

 

Thanks @sofakingdom thats interesting. Ill run my multimeter on the cables to see if theirs any output. Im assuming it cant get proper idle in indefinite choke mode. Im starting to see light at the end of the tunnel. Actually got to drive her around the neighborhood for a little while today. This 84 TransAm was turning heads. Night Rider style.....LOL

 

Stick with it, you might get to go quite a ways with it eventually.

 

@sofakingdom Started the car today and still the Choke light is on. I pulled out the multimeter, and the alternator seems to be working fine. Putting out between 14 to 14.3. Turning the car off, the battery is at a solid 12.3
She seems to be running good, but dont know why that light is still on. Could it be a ground? Radio now sounds ungrounded, hearing the revving in the static. Odd (not sure if that has anything to do with it).

Any other ideas on why the choke light stays on?

Frank

 

seems like the choke light may also light when the choke wire is disconnected. going by memory on this one and it's been a while.

check that your choke wire also shows 12+ volts when the alternator is running.

i would refer to a schematic but it just struck 'cocktail time' here in south carolina

either way the choke light won't affect how your car runs when warm and the choke should be off. as long as you're getting MCS cycling anyway.

 

Hi @naf and @sofakingdom ,

Thanks for all the input. I did a little more digging and searching on this site and found this post:
​​​​​​https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...28-1984-a.html

I followed the steps and checked the fuses (never thought *That* would be the issue). Sure enough the 20A C-H fuse in the upper right corner had indeed blown. I promptly replaced, and the light went off! Turns out it was you, Sofa, that walked that member though that process! And it worked for me.

Now I am driving around having fun.....until the next issue. LOL!
If you guys are ever in the Atlanta area, ill buy you some cold ones!
Cheers,
Frank

 

That feeling of accomplishment!!

 

Hi @sofakingdom Car has been running great and thanks again for the assistence! Of course an old issue is coming back at me with the Idle Stop Solenoid. All works well and drives well as mentioned, but after several miles/getting warmed up, the solenoid kicker has been pushing waaay out, and making my RPMs go to about 3500. And it stays there. I have to shut it off to make it stop.

Any idea why that is happening?
Thanks in advance and have a great Thanksgiving y'all!
Frank

 

It's supposed to hold the idle up to 1100 or so, and drop out as the RPMs decline from cruising down to around 1400. The ECM keeps it energized until the RPMs drop low enough; if it's adjusted too long, it'll never let the idle come down, and consequently will never disengage. You adjust it by screwing the plunger in or out. Try disconnecting its wire, and using an alligator clip lead to battery to power the solenoid, and adjust it until the idle with it energized is around 1100. That should put it into the ballpark; you can fine-tune it from there. Curb idle with it deactivated should be around 650 - 700 for a stick shift or 600 - 650 in gear for an auto. You may need to compromise its setting slightly between AC idle speed, and smoothest deceleration behavior. Usually it'll tend to be a bit too aggressive with its AC action.

 

Yep @sofakingdom once again, your advice did the trick. I had the plunger adjusted way too far out, and it was evident when I applied the battery lead. I adjusted a few times until it was perfect!