86TpiTransAm

I've decided to go with a 383 instead of a 355 and was wondering if a 600cfm carb would be enough for it...or should I go with the 750cfm??! The mods are listed below! Thanks in advance to all who reply!!

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1986 Trans AM
305 TPI
200,000+ miles (speedo/odometer non-funtional! Odometer reads 142,000)
4 Wheel Discs
9 bolt Borg Warner Rear (2.77's....oh joy) :P
Completely Stock
Soon to upgrade to a 383 converted from TPI to Carb, Edelbrock 600CFM Carb, Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake, Hedman Shorty Headers, AFR 195's (if I can afford them), XE268 Cam, Moroso HEI ignition kit with external MSD Blaster II Coil and an MSD 6-AL Box!!
Current project: Keeping my 305 running until I get my income tax returns!

Damon

It's not enough for a warmed over 350, let alone a 383. Go 750 at least. Really, ANYTHING 350 or larger can take a 750CFM without any problems.

86TpiTransAm

My friend has a 356 with a 600cfm carb on it and it runs just fine with the same basic setup I'm gonna go with! The only difference between my and his engine other than the displacement is he's using sportsman II heads and his cam is one step lower than the one I'm going with!! I know that anything 350 or larger can "handle" a 750 but I'm looking for fuel mileage as well as performance so I'm wondering if the 600 "manual choke" would be the way to go?? Maybe a 750 "electric choke" would work huh???

------------------
1986 Trans AM
305 TPI
200,000+ miles (speedo/odometer non-funtional! Odometer reads 142,000)
4 Wheel Discs
9 bolt Borg Warner Rear (2.77's....oh joy) :P
Completely Stock
Soon to upgrade to a 383 converted from TPI to Carb, Edelbrock 600CFM Carb, Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake, Hedman Shorty Headers, AFR 195's (if I can afford them), XE268 Cam, Moroso HEI ignition kit with external MSD Blaster II Coil and an MSD 6-AL Box!!
Current project: Keeping my 305 running until I get my income tax returns!

[This message has been edited by 86TpiTransAm (edited March 21, 2001).]

The ODB

a 600 is fine for just driving around normally,
but if you're wanting anywhere near max performance in the quarter mile, then you will need a 750 at the very least.

Edlebrock makes an 800 by the way, and that can be modified to approximately 900cfm.

AlkyIROC

Beat me too it. I was going to say roughly the same thing.

FlashGTA

Get the 750 and be happy!

FastBroker

Yeah, for mileage and daily-driveability, get the 600.

For a weekender and for all-out (lots of use) performance, get a 750...

SUPER-SPORT-CHEVY

I wouldent push 750 cfm cause it would eat you out of "house and home" lol!
seriosly use a street avenger 670 or a street
deamon 620 not sure about the SD cfm i think it is 620. if you plan on driving this car alot you need to be able to get a fair amont of economy so i wouldent push a 750 unlees you own a oil company

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85 Camaro RS T tops 350/350, stealth intake. holley street avenger 670. ported 58cc heads. comp magnum 270H cam,Crane 1.6 roller rockers,edelbrock accu-drive, MSD 6 series ignition on HEI, K&N extream air cleaner, true dual exhaust with 18 inch glasspacks.
82 Firebird 305/250 action plus intake, accel distributer with ccs 8mm wires foam air filter.
The only "cat" i have uses the litter box

86TpiTransAm

That's kinda what I was thinkin'....maybe get a 600cfm manual choke edelbrock for now until I get a different daily driver and then I can upgrade!! I don't know about getting a Demon or some other brand because my budget is kinda limited right now!!



------------------
1986 Trans AM
305 TPI
200,000+ miles (speedo/odometer non-funtional! Odometer reads 142,000)
4 Wheel Discs
9 bolt Borg Warner Rear (2.77's....oh joy) :P
Completely Stock
Soon to upgrade to a 383 converted from TPI to Carb, Edelbrock 600CFM Carb, Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake, Hedman Shorty Headers, AFR 195's (if I can afford them), XE268 Cam, Moroso HEI ignition kit with external MSD Blaster II Coil and an MSD 6-AL Box!!
Current project: Keeping my 305 running until I get my income tax returns!

The ODB

heh, I like how you guys think about carbs. Everyone should just run very small carburetors instead of trying to learn to tune a bigger one.

A 750 will flow less air than a 600 on a 350 engine. If you keep the air/fuel ratio the same (and correct), then how does the bigger carb use so much more fuel as to break you?

Argue if you must, but I will just suggest that you go do some real research on how carbs work and take the time to learn real tuning.

ODB

Big454blockchevy

So I guess cuz I have a 750 holley v.s. I have money to waste? Like The ODB stated if you learn how to tune it correctly you should be ok. Now if you put on a 750 cfm carb and it's not tuned correctly you definetely are going to be pouring your money out the exhaust but you will end up doing the same witha a 600 cfm carb that is not tuned.

------------------
Big 454 72 Chevy Nova
383 86 Camaro Z28

86TpiTransAm

Ok, so to get near max peformance out of my engine I should go with a 750 as opposed to a 600....according to your previous post! If a bigger carb doesn't use more fuel (therefore lowering your gas mileage) as suggested in your statement above then how does a bigger carb give an engine more power???

The ODB

please don't ask me to fully explain how carburetors work on here. You have access to all of that information... books, web, etc..

the short answer is that a bigger carb can (depending on the engine) increase the density of the air/fuel charge entering the combustion chambers.

CamaroMike

Nobody here has even mentioned the volumetric efficiency of an engine or shift points. JEEEEEZZZZZ! Any 350 shifting at 6000 RPM or less will be just fine with a 600CFM carb. THAT'S ASSUMING A PERFECT EXHAUST! Everyone knows our cars exhaust is less than optimal. Hell a 350 at 100% VE shifting at 6000RPM will need 630CFM acording to Holley. Everyone knows damn well that even the best of our engines only has like 90% VE. Which is 630*.9 = 567CFM BTW if anyone wants to argue that CFM ratings are only based on dry flow you are wrong. All carbs are rated with fuel flowing into the airstream. Why reduce fuel economy, throttle respose, and low end torque with a larger carb. Smaller carbs have higher booster signals and can be tuned easier and reduce off idle bogg. I run in the 12's with a 600 Edelbrock with no sogg. Carb size depends PRIMARILY on cam and shift points. Read some books.

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Recently Ported Heads, Installed Larger Race-Flo Valves and RPM Air Gap Intake (No new times)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

The Bowtie
ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

86TpiTransAm

Thanks CamaroMike, that makes more sense than what ODB was sayin'.... no offense to the ODB! I just don't see anyway of running a 750cfm and getting decent gas mileage compared to the 600 like ODB was tryin' to say!! I'm gonna be running a decent cam that requires no stall and will probably only be shifting at between 5500 and 6000 rpms and that's on the strip....it'll be much less than that driving around regularly! So I think a 600cfm will be plenty for me!

------------------
1986 Trans AM
305 TPI
200,000+ miles (speedo/odometer non-funtional! Odometer reads 142,000)
4 Wheel Discs
9 bolt Borg Warner Rear (2.77's....oh joy) :P
Completely Stock
Soon to upgrade to a 383 converted from TPI to Carb, Edelbrock 600CFM Carb, Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake, Hedman Shorty Headers, AFR 195's (if I can afford them), XE268 Cam, Moroso HEI ignition kit with external MSD Blaster II Coil and an MSD 6-AL Box!!
Current project: Keeping my 305 running until I get my income tax returns!

CamaroMike

In response to the more gas used for a larger carb, that is easy. Throttle response is killed on most 350's so people mash the pedal to compensate. 750 carbs use larger jets and boosters so more fuel is introduced into the engine and walla SH!TTY FUEL ECONOMY.

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Recently Ported Heads, Installed Larger Race-Flo Valves and RPM Air Gap Intake (No new times)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

The Bowtie
ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

Big454blockchevy

Whatever works for your engine. I know that my 383 has great throttle response with it's Holley 750 v.s. no complaints here.

------------------
Big 454 72 Chevy Nova
383 86 Camaro Z28

Mike635

Cubic inches X Max Rpm,Divide by 3456, X .80 The .80 being volumetric efficency. a rough average,but it will get you close

The ODB

Hello? heh you guys are funny.
your formula is as worthless as a chassis dyno.

by that lame criteria the carb will not become efficient and match the engine until 6000rpm. So why does the engine make it's maximum power in the 3000's even with a larger carb?

you need to forget those formulas and do some actual testing to see what happens. Being able to tune the carb you're working with helps a bunch.

as for gas mileage being affected by cfm rating.. that is a farce too. You don't cruise around with all four butterflies wide open. The difference comes in primary sizing and signal. Many 1000cfm qjets (from the carb shop) get significantly better fuel mileage than a 600cfm Holley or Carter.

All I can say is I tried to help, but then again I'm kind of glad when my competition is so sure of themselves that they don't do their own testing.

CamaroMike

Hey ODB, not trying to be a smart *** but I keep posting hard numbers from reputable sources such as Holey and Edelbrock. My theories follow common carb knowledge that is published in many books. All I hear from you is i'm stupid, chassis dynos are unreliable and your "experience" is different and more relevant that the worlds most renowned engine developers. Try posting some hard numbers and logic for all of us to follow because until you do your statements seem very egotisitcal and unfounded.

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Recently Ported Heads, Installed Larger Race-Flo Valves and RPM Air Gap Intake (No new times)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

The Bowtie
ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

86TpiTransAm

AMEN....couldn't have said it better myself!

Now ODB, you've helped me out a bit with several things and I have to admit you can be very helpful....BUT sometimes some of the things you say make absolutely no sense!!

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

about the formula to determine carb size:
People seem to forget that carbs are measured at 1.5 inHG to determine their flow rating.
So say you figure your 6000 rpm 350 is gonna need 600 cfm according to the carb size formula, that means that a 600 cfm carb will be pulling 1.5 inches of vacuum at 6000 rpm on that motor.

CamaroMike

Hey Pablo could you please explain further, i'm intrigued. Is 1.5in of Hg at 6000RPM good or bad? What vacuum do I want to run at max RPM for optimum performance.

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Recently Ported Heads, Installed Larger Race-Flo Valves and RPM Air Gap Intake (No new times)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

The Bowtie
ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

Apeiron

Zero, ideally.

CamaroMike

Zero meaning full atmospheric pressure in the intake manifold. I got it. Thanks Aperion, just checking.

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Recently Ported Heads, Installed Larger Race-Flo Valves and RPM Air Gap Intake (No new times)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

The Bowtie
ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

The ODB

a normally aspirated engine with zero vacuum will not flow any air through the carburetor at all.

keep on reading.

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

ugh ODB you are neither old nor wise so we can do without that tone of yours

Manifold vacuum is not neccessary, you do need airflow through a carb but that doesnt neccessarily mean there has to be a vacuum on the other side.. heck not even vacuum in the cyl in the induction stroke is neccessary when you aretalking about forced induction. This is of course if vacuum is defined as any pressure below atmospheric. As far as my limited engine knowledge goes any manifold vacuum measured is a measure of how choked the motor is, the higher the manifold vacuum, the more power is wasted just trying to suck air into the motor. Like trying to suck the same amont of 7up through two straws one large in diameter one small. To suck the same the same amount of volume through the smaller straw you are gonna have to suck much harder which requires more energy just like the engine

[This message has been edited by Pablo (edited March 26, 2001).]

BadSS

I must have built a naturally aspirated 305 with 149% volumetric efficiency back in 1990! It shifted at 5700 and ran over 0.25 seconds faster with the 750 vs a 600 carb (“best jetted”). Since the formula says at 100% VE the 305 needed 503 cfm, that means I had to have built a N/A engine with 149% VE (750/508 = 149%). This being an L69 with a little head porting and cam change! If you think that’s “unbelievable”,, I know a guy that ran two 1150s (2300 cfm) on a 355 shifting at 8900 rpm. He picked up almost 0.40 seconds with the two 1150s over a single 1150. The formula says at 100% VE he should need no more than 914 cfm. That means his naturally aspirated engine was running at 252% VE! Right??? Come on,, that’s what the formula says,, doesn’t it??? See,,,, when you reverse the formula based on actually racing experience and results,, it blows it totally out of the water.

Will a 600 carb work on your 383 - sure. Will a 750 work better - yes. Will there be a mileage difference - very little if any if it’s a vacuum secondary and properly prepared. Will you loose to someone if you run the 600 that you could have out run with the 750,,, more than likely. But hey,, someone has to loose.

FlashGTA

Okay, here are your hard numbers. 1972 Mach 1 Mustang, 351C 4V heads (Yeah the ones with ports the size of a sewer pipe) Crane Fireball 302 Cam, 10.5:1 Compression, 2500 Stall, 3.89 gears, C-6 Automatic. I paid big $$$$$$ for a custom built 650 double pumper from Barry Grant. This was chosen based on the known flow formulas that are being talked about here. Now this carb was as close to perfect as it can get for that car and combination. It ran 12.60's at 106 mph on street tires. It felt like it was losing something on the top-end. I had a 750 sitting on the bench so I rejetted it and put it on. I ran a 12.38 at 110 mph. So there are your hard numbers. I have a GTA with TPI now so I can't give you any hard numbers off a Chevy motor. It all comes down to reducing flow restrictions in the entire intake tract. That's why we get cylinder heads with bigger valves and bigger ports. Less restriction means more and better flow. 3 1/2 inch exhaust with headers means more flow. Intakes with larger runner cross-section means more and better flow. A larger carb though it may not flow to it's full rating means less restriction. So yes a larger carb can work better on an engine that the formulas say will work best with a smaller carb. That's real world, that's on the track, that's on the street.

[This message has been edited by FlashGTA (edited March 26, 2001).]

CamaroMike

I'm so sure everyone had controlled conditions like the same atmosphere, traction, humidity, enigne tune. The people that make the carbs test them objectively under controlled conditions. Street racers do not. Sorry for being cynical but i'll take the opinion of the people who invest millions of dollars in research over a street racer any day.

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Recently Ported Heads, Installed Larger Race-Flo Valves and RPM Air Gap Intake (No new times)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

The Bowtie
ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

FlashGTA

Camaro-Mike, you aren't being cynical you are being a bone-head. This wasn't just a matter of one run, this was dozens of runs taking the best time for each. The 750 was the better carb. If you want to talk till your blue in the face convincing yourself you have the perfect carb, go for it. But don't tell someone else that your carb is right for them. And for your edification, if you read any engine buildups you will find very, very few 600 holley carbs. They don't flow enough, they have side hung floats and single feed with a balance tube. None of which is made for high performance. I venture to say I was racing long before you even thought about it. I know cars and I know carbs. You know theory, I know it too and sometimes the best formulas in the world just don't work. I bet you have never tried another carb because you are convinced yours is perfect, more power to you. I tried different carbs on different cars and know lots more that have done the same. I'll put my money on real world experience.

CamaroMike

Sounds like I struck a nerve. Maybe i'm not the one who needs to be convinced?

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Recently Ported Heads, Installed Larger Race-Flo Valves and RPM Air Gap Intake (No new times)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

The Bowtie
ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

[This message has been edited by CamaroMike (edited March 26, 2001).]

super83Z

That formula is full of ****!!!!!!! If that formula was accurate then that means the very basis of making more power out of an engine is wrong:

MORE AIR MAKES MORE POWER

I guess "just enough" air makes more power. Lets look at a company like Edelbrock it makes the RPM power package that has a 750cfm carb on it. Don't you think they may have done some research on selecting that size carb? Why have fresh air hoods? The engine can pull adequate air from the engine bay.

And as long as you don't drive like a savage and have the carb properly tuned then gas mileage is the same

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LONG LIVE THE MUSCLE CAR!!!!! MAY ITS REIGN NEVER END

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package with 64cc aluminum heads, dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

CamaroMike

If you would have read the formula more carfully you would notice that the RPM package goes to 6500RPM and is usually shifted at 7000RPM. A 7000RPM shift does requires more airflow so a 750CFM carb is required. (350CID*7000RPM)/3456 = 709 CFM 709 CFM * .95 efficiency factor = 673 CFM

But an 350 at 6000RPM with a .95 efficiency only needs 577 CFM

Pretty big difference HUH!

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Recently Ported Heads, Installed Larger Race-Flo Valves and RPM Air Gap Intake (No new times)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

The Bowtie
ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

CamaroMike

"MORE AIR MAKES MORE POWER" Sorry :-(

Truth is "MORE OXYGEN MAKES MORE POWER"

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Recently Ported Heads, Installed Larger Race-Flo Valves and RPM Air Gap Intake (No new times)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

The Bowtie
ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

super83Z

so air doesn't contain oxygen?

------------------
LONG LIVE THE MUSCLE CAR!!!!! MAY ITS REIGN NEVER END

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package with 64cc aluminum heads, dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

SUPER-SPORT-CHEVY

Ok back to subject. The guy wanted to know if a 600cfm will work on a 383. He also wanted some thing that would get descent mileage/power True a 750 will blast the bjesus out of a 600cfm. "both tunned correctly" But he was talking about a edlebrock. it can take $$$ to find out what Jet/rod combo will make the car run to its potential, altitude adjustments or what not. my 2 cents is that he should use a 600 cfm for his daily driver and if its not enough he should sell it and buy a 750. always some one that wants a shinny chrome carb!

86TpiTransAm

The formula is used to find out what is the MINIMUM airflow needed for an engine!! So according to the formula my 383 NEEDS roughly 532cfms of air to run properly!! This formula doesn't calculate airflow for MAX PERFORMANCE but rather it calculates NEEDED airflow to run properly!! Common knowledge and numbers tell you that a BIGGER carb (750cfm) will produce better track times, as shown in this post!! That doesn't mean you're running a higher VE....it just simply means you're getting different airflow and more fuel (which calculates to lower gas mileage) to produce better track times!!

BUT....

I orignially wanted to know if a 600cfm is "enough" for my 383! Or, in other words, what is the MINIMUM needed airflow for my 383!! That formula gave me my answer and regardless whether the 750cfm will run better or not, the 600cfm WILL work on the 383 and that's all I wanted to know!!

Damn I hope the college educated "idiots" at GM and other auto makers don't argue over formulas and **** like this!! If they do, god help us all!!

BadSS

Sorry "86",, I can be a smartarse - No doubt the 600 will work until you want to / or can upgrade later. I'm not a dumbarse,, I was using the VE portion of the equation to exaggerate / emphasis a point.

CamaroMike,,, I wished you lived close enough to me so you could bolt on one of my tricked out 750 vacuum carbs,,,, or better yet let you bolt on this 850 AD I have. Positively no doubt you would see a huge throttle response and time difference!!!!

[This message has been edited by BadSS (edited March 26, 2001).]

86TpiTransAm

Not a problem BadSS!! Right now this car is my daily driver so I'm gonna go with the 600cfm!! When I get a different daily driver I will definitely upgrade the carb to a 750cfm at least!! Probably a bigger cam too for that matter!!

The ODB

LOL this is a riot,
please keep this thread going.

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it gets better and better every time you post rofl,

guy thinks hes yoda and ****

FlashGTA

CamaroMike, I'm not the one that needs convincing. I've proved what I say in hundreds of runs down the dragstrip. I've met guys like you my entire life, you don't want to listen to anyone with real world experience. You read a book and now you think you know it all. I noticed you didn't respond saying you had tried a larger carb, so I guess you haven't. If you did you would toss your 600 and never look back. And as far as spending millions of bucks figuring out the best carb for a car, you think GM doesn't know what it's doing? The L69 came with a 750 Q-Jet. Let's see by your formula it should have had a 2 barrel carb mounted on it and run 12 second quarter mile times.
86TPI - My apologies for going off on a tangent. The 600 will work, my point was if you haven't bought the carb yet get the 750. If you already have the 600 and don't want to buy another carb, use it. I would recommend getting a K&N stub stack for it though. This will increase flow by about 40 cfm. If you have a spreadbore manifold get the holley Q-Jet replacement carb. It flows 650 cfm and has smaller primaries and larger secondaries just like a Q-Jet, so it will get a bit better gas mileage.

CamaroMike

Yes, Flash I have tried a 750 and had horrible bogg on rapid acceleration.

The GM 750 Q-Jet's are limited with the secondary spring tension down to about 580 CFM, nice try.

Oh, and about the K&N Stub Stack try here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/000459.html

You should belive me after all it's "REAL WORLD TESTING".

The ODB

ever consider tuning?

Big454blockchevy

Lol

------------------
Big 454 72 Chevy Nova
383 86 Camaro Z28
10.5:1compression 186 casting Heads,234dur.488lift exh&int,Edelbrock performer intake, Holley750 vac.sec 400 crank,flat top pistons,edelbrock valve springs and lifters,tranny shift kit,kickdown kit and tranny oil cooler. Will install 3.73's later on and might go with a more aggresive cam.

RoadRacin85Z

With the right tune, you can run about any carb an that 383. The guys in any NASCAR Limited Sportsman or Late Model class will laugh when magazines do a build up and get 380 hp with a 750 4 barrel. What they run is a 350cfm 2 barrel, and are pushing close to 400 hp. Now I know, the carbs are very tricked out, and they have very radical cams, but they are also tuned up very good.

I also think that a 750 has more potential if tuned correctly, but most people just don't know how to tune them up right. But, a 600 will work fine.

I'm almost afraid to post this, you people are really starting to pick on each other...

-Joel Likness

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- 84 Z28 In Progress
Road Racer
- 85 S10 350/350
Drag Racer
- 85 Nissan 200SX (yes, it's Japanese)
Circle Track Car
- 91 Lumina 3.1 Euro
Daily Driver

CamaroMike

Damn, this is funny. Maybe i'll break out the old 750 this year and take some time off of my quarter, who knows. ROTFLMAO!

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Recently Ported Heads, Installed Larger Race-Flo Valves and RPM Air Gap Intake (No new times)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

The Bowtie
ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

FastBroker

Buy a couple carbs and do your own testing, that's what I'd do, and sell the one you don't want/need... The cost of the loss will be worth it in piece of mind.

Or you could borrow a couple carbs from some GOOD buddies and do some testing with 'em...

This post have some stupid stuff/theory on it, man. Pretty funny sheeeeit. I agree with OBD, keep it going for comedy relief.

[This message has been edited by FastBroker (edited March 27, 2001).]

The ODB

Now this is a good point.
If you're talking about the race model Holley 2300 2-barrel, then I think it's rated at 650cfm @ 3"hg which would put it at only 460cfm @ 1.5"hg like 4-barrels are rated at.
If the 2-barrel you're talking about is 350
cfm @3"hg, then it would only flow 250cfm @ 1.5"hg which is the standard test for 4-barrels. Is this the case with the carbs you mention here?
oh yeah heh, and have you figured out how a carb flows air N/A without a pressure differential (vacuum) at the throttle? I'm still trying to figure that one.
by the way those race cars pull WAY over 3"hg of vacuum in their intake manifolds. They only pull zero when they are not running.

ODB