Ok, here is the back ground on what I have done. The car is a 91 Z28. It is a older style 4 bolt main 350 that is bored .040 over. Has a comp 280 cam with ported vortec heads, victor jr single plane intake and a holley 700 double pumper, I'm also using an aftermarket older style HEI. The tranny is a turbo 400 with a JW 3600 stall and also installed a hurst quarter stick. The engine is fed by a holley blue pump. whew, now that all that is out of the way. I did all of this swap at one time so I have changed many things on this car. after wiring the fuel pump in I was all excited about starting this thing, Turned the key on and nothing, gettting power to the pump and it is running, getting power to accessories, just not getting anything to starter. I thought maybe the neutral safety switch was the culprit since I didn't hook on up with my new shifter/tranny combo. plugged the old shifter back in to harness and still nothing. also tried to unplug the computer completly and still nothing. Any suggestions???? Also if anyone has did this swap, how much of the wiring harness was kept. I still have the complete engine harness drapped across the engine. did you just cut out what is not needed or unplug the whole harness and rewire the things you need to hook up the alternator and wiper motor, cooling fans, etc..? thanks in advance for any help anyone can give me!

 

CANT HELP YOU MATE,,,BUT I GOT SOME USELESS INFORMATION ,, i would wait 2 days on this site,,the guys are damm good people,, its pretty good help,,,injection to carb!! major Drama ! computer cars have many loops in the wiring,, pain in the but,, i reckon hot wire it,,, from the battery to the ignition then to the starter,, make sure if the cam is a new one!!!!(Everything is ready to start,) and keep running,,the cam must be run in at around 15,000 rpm,s for about 15 minutes,, most major brands say this in little writing on the box or elseware, some brands think everone knows this and dont mention it,,, you will risk a cam failure,some people i know think you install a new cam ,,and go for a drive around the block,,,,then wonder why it wont pull (no torque) a few days latter,,,get it running,,run the cam in ,,,,go to an auto electrician,,,get it sorted out ,,by a pro,,,its only a few hour job,,i live in Australia ,its good to take on a job like this,,,but some things are a nightmare,,,get profesional advice,,,its cheap,,, STEVE ,,NO WORRIES 82Z/28 dead stock,,62.000mls mint cond,,,hey get it started then your 1/2 way home,,,good luck mate,.

 

I have a feeling it has something to do with your VATS system. Did you bypass it?

 

How do you bypass the vats system?

 

Did you pull the fuse for the ECM? When I converted to carb, I did that, and it shut down the VATS. The car wouldn't turn over. As it stands now, the ECM is active, and all the wiring is still there. The SES light is on permanently, but the car starts.

 

The only problem I had was the neutral saftey switch. You might not have gotten the wiring correct when you swapped to the TH400. Look at the stock shifter wiring harness, there are 2 wires thicker than all the others (purple and yellow IIRC). Splice those 2 wires together, and see if it starts.

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I tried with the computer hooked up and with it disconnected completely. the car will not crank either way just as if you are trying to start an automatic car in gear.Hit the switch and nothing. I have also tried splicing the 2 heavy wires on the original harness to the shifter by sticking a paper clip into the two terminals I have also tried connecting the stock shifter back to the harness but both ways were the same outcome, nothing! Thanks for all your suggestions though

 

Replace your ignition switch with one that doesn't have VATS and rewire it.
then get rid of your blue pump and get a Carter electric.

 

Look in the Tech Articles. I believe there is a write up on how to bypass the VATS.