jer4251

iTrader: (6)

I just got my convertible and the top is in bad shape, I'd like to wait till winter is over to put a new one on, but don't know much about them. I know the origional ones are made out of a material called stayfast or cloth as its called often, and has a plastic rear window, I was interested in going with the glass rear window but don't know what material top i want, I like the look and feel of the stayfast but what about vinyl? Is it better or worse? last longer, more durable? is it shinny? stretchy? who has a vinyl top with glass window?

I also have a nice gap on the bottom of the top where it meets the side window, like the weatherstripping isnt doing it's job, it there but is kinda just loose, i can see right out when im inside the car, and im afraid of washing it because i dont want to clean the inside at the same time,

along with all of that i have what looks like someone stabbed the top with a knife, goes right through the top and headliner, and the rear window stitching is already 1/2 off and you can stick your hand right through the gap, only one 1/2 of the window is still sewn into the top. and the bottom of the top keeps flipping up, it wont stay down to the body.

And it makes the most amout of rattles and squeeks out of every camaro i've ever been in, I'll try an fix those myself.


Has anyone else had a tranny mount problem? I've driven 2 91 rs conv't and both had a hard knock from under the car when you hit the gas.

Also i have the 16x8 Z28 style wheels with 245's on all 4 and the fronts rub when i turn hard...anyone else have that prob? i plan on doin 17x9.5's up front and 18x10.5s in the rear, am i going to run into problems? i will have the correct spacers as needed for the corvetter wheels.

Speedgraphic

First, whatever you do replace with the Stayfast top. Pool liners belong in swimming pools not on Fbodies...

There are tops produced with glass windows. I've seen them on other posts in this section. One guy even put his own top on (with glass window) and he has posted some good instructions...

On another post I have read in the past someone talks about using a particular kind of tape that he got from an upholstery shop to temporarily repair his back window. You might also be able to use it to waterproof the area you mentioned that looks like a knife puncture.

You mentioned a weatherstripping problem at the area where the top meets the windows. How are your doors? Are they Sagging? You might need to replace the hinge bushings. it might be a top or window adjustment. We need a bit more info on that one.


The bottom of the top at the toneau cover keeps flipping up... There is a latch pin that goes through the center of the tonneau cover. That pin is what holds the top down. Sometimes my cable will stay in the "unlocked" position after I put the top up. As I drive down the road the back of the top will fly up like you are talking about. It is as simple as pushing the cable back to the "locked postion" and reclosing the rear of the top. Youi probably should inspect the latch - under the toneau - to see if there is a problem there if that doesn't fix the problem.

Top Rattles. Part of the problem you have is that it sounds like your top is probably not tightly attached to the frame. When you replace your top this will be taken care of. Additionally there are parts in the top that will wear. There is a post here detailing what to get from your local nut and bolt distributer to fix the problem. Lon Salgen of Top Down Solutions (see banner ad at the top of this page) is supposed to be putting together a kit to deal with this problem.

It does sound like you might have a bad tranny mount. You can pick up a replacement on Ebay easily. These cars had a lot of Low End torque so it is not uncommon to hear of busted tranny mounts.

I have the same size tires as you do but with 4th Gen camaro rims (and spacers). I have the scrubbing problem in only one direction but it only scrubs when turned all the way to the locks. I don't worry about it because I only rarely turn the wheel that sharply.

There is a whole lot of good information on this site. Do a little browsing and read what has been discussed before and you will likely find the info you are looking for.

Good luck with your new Vert!

Speedy

JWKbride

Wow, speedgraphic....nice answers! Nice to see folks to take the time to provide such detail!

As for the top flipping up in the back, I had the problem for the first time going down I- 285 here in Atlanata. As memtioned, the problem was the sliding tonneau cover latch did not retract back to the lock position.

The fix....when I got home I sprayed all the parts with WD40, and now the problem is solved.

Take Care,
John

jer4251

iTrader: (6)

thanks for the answers. I have already desided to go with the stayfast top with the glass window, I'll have to save up enough for it being its the most costly option for tops.

When i said that the top flips up in the rear, i wasnt refering to the actual latch behind the toneau cover, the fabric on the top is curling up on the sides, exposing the weather stripping, like the material has shrunk or is being pulled too tight,

I'll have to look into the tranny mount, I havent had a chance to get under the car to check it out yet because of the cold weather here in ohio.

the drivers side door sags a little, there are some gouging in the ground effects in the door sill from it not being in line perfect, I'm going to work on it all winter and hopefully have a ready to roll vert in the summer. I have some body work that needs taken care of.

Does anyone know where i can get a new or used trim for the inside of the top, where the 2 handles are for unlatching the top. the thin plastic part that goes all the way across the fron of the top, one end of mine has a crack in it.

I'll have to take some pics to show you guys my car and what it is exactly i'm talking about in this post


thanks everyone

Speedgraphic

That sound like a problem that will be fixed with the new top. As long as the top is secured to the bow and the weatherstripping is solidly contacting the Tonneau then you should be watertite and that's what's important for now.

The tranny mount should not be too hard to replace. Cold weather is why I live in South Georgia. I HATE cold weather! I was topless Three days this past week! Not bad for mid November!

At the top of this page you will see a banner ad for Top Down Solutions. Click on that banner and you will be taken to a good source for hard to find parts for our cars. Among the things he sells is a door kit along with the special tools that make the job easier. The fix is not that hard. You could probably get both doors done on a saturday.

I am not aware of anyone selling the header trim new. The best source I could point you to would be Ebay. If you keep an eye out there you can usually find what you are needing there. I picked up a replacement for this part a while back off Ebay. I will warn you that this part usually goes for $120 and up used on Ebay!

You might also try Hawks (Banner ad on this page) or
ThirdGen Resource They buy cars and part them out...

Good Luck!
Speedy

89rsragtop

Welcome to the world of convertibles. The first things you need are subframe connectors and a 3 point strut tower brace. this will greatly cut down rattles and shakes. As for that plastic trim on the inside front of the top,Good luck! I have been looking for a good one for over a year. No one makes this part and they all break. Last summer when I was at Hawks, I talked to Bruce about this. He was thinking of trying to make them. But it appears he hasn't gotten around to it.

jer4251

iTrader: (6)

I'll take some pics within the next week and put them up for everyone to see. thankd for all the info. but i have one more question, I have a 4th gen exhaust system sitting in my garage from my 97 SS and was wondering if it will fit up under a 3rd gen. It's a flomaster with SS pipes.

Speedgraphic

Yes,

Your 4th Gen Exhaust system (CatBack) will fit. The only thing you will have to change is the position of one or both of the hangers for the muffler. No problem for a muffler or welding shop. If you drive it up to them already installed and temporarily wired they should do the bracket work back ther for Ten or so dollars.

Speedy

Bill Speed

I prefer the original cloth/Stayfast. Trying to decide on another color is a bit tough, but black is the color that seems suited.
Mine came unglued slowly over 4 years around the back side bow and then it cracked under ice from the winter snows and subsequent cleanings. I cut some clear vinyl to insert under the bows as a second layer and used towels/The Absorber to catch leaks. The door sailpanel- weatherstrip is now garbage, but people say to replace it all.. The only piece I really need to get I think is where the rear bow seals to the cover... Water has made it slowly rot over time...that and drying sealed to the paint. It's a massive pain as there were times I slept and then it DID rain and the top was stuck down thanks to the pull cords that get trapped behind the interior trim. There are alot of special worries when you have no garage, let me tell you!
BILL

Cadillac

I'd trade my left nut for a LARGE garage. Fortunately for me, it only rains here about only 20 days a year and it never comes close to freezing.

JWKbride

I found a source for the plastic trim part around the top. There is a Pontiac Dealer here in Atlanta, "Marietta Pontiac" and they have a guy on staff who is a wiz at locating old and discontiuned parts.

He found this fragile plastic part for me. The first was received broken, so I figured game over. He was able to find another and if I recall he said he found 3. This was a year ago....so don't know whats out there now.

Let me know and I'll get his name and number posted for ya.
John

jer4251

iTrader: (6)

mine just has a small crack toards the one end, it's in no need of replacement yet, it hasnt cracked all the way through. Is there a way to fix cracks in that kind of material?

and does anyone know how to repair the front ground effect? is there a special material to use to build up the body of it and make it stronger? something that gets really hard?

lastly i just noticed a problem when i got under my car, it had overheated at one point in time and i think the radiator fluid has destroyed part of my frame underneath, right where the front swaybar is attached, the frome is rusted all the way through, the drivers side looks like its still new with no rust at all, do i have to weld new steel where the old stuff is gone? and would a bent front sway bad cause an allighnment problem? both wheels lean to one side like so this is a straight on pic,
__ ___
\ \__________\ \
\__\ \__\
the top of the wheels lean toards the passenger side of the car.

89rsragtop

JWKbride,
I still need the part. Please post that guy's info.
Thanks
Tom (89rsragtop)

Bill Speed

Ya know... I ran into legal issues while buying a replacement for my Bird to keep on the road. The one I've finalized in keeping is a 1988 Caddy Deville. The last of the downsized 4 doors. The unique thing is highest standard options for these and the only 4.5 V8. While transverse and with unique 85 to 88 trans I believe, a swap to the Northstar would be difficult but the Allante 200hp V8?? hmmm
Notice the odd plenum used on those...essentially the same engine. (just an OT observation I came up with hehe)

With that car and the previous first '88 Deville I bought, I had similar problems.. I was told for the bad trans, after a roadtest, they feel the transaxle has loose mounts, or the engine does.
This will be addressed as the trans gets replaced. With the prior Deville, the water pump began leaking to the extent where everyday fluid needed refilling, it became so costly it ran on water near the end...where it was left at the impound (long story!)
The Firebird I always mention here just had the fuel pump serviced...then while trying to revive...the cooling system proved in sorry state as well. Not a drop of fluid will stay in it...comes out back to the ground from the left tank side (filler side)! I found this out the expensive way, pouring new antifreeze in and watching it all goto the ground, not collected. STUPID!
Anyway... I can relate to quite a few of these problems. Right now, as far as odd plastic ASC parts, I need to replace one of the rear door (location on the doorpillar) sill top-caps. (the screw in moldings) You know the ones that fit near the seatbelt at the top of the door? I checked the prices on these at $130 or so, a pop! UGH!

On the backburner with that, needless to say
I managed to lose the rearview mirror button while the fuel pump was going in and the car was trailored. Can anyone help me source a factory replacement...avoiding factory Mr. Goodwrench costs?

Speedgraphic

Bill,

I get a lot of my camaro parts from Ebay. A quick search and an even quicker glanse found at least three mirror switches for thirdgen camaros on ebay. Try this link:

Mirror Switch Ebay Search

Sounds lke you are probably in need of a radiator. Compared to some other stuff that's not too expensive!

JWKbride

Here ya go......
David Walker, Parts guy who specializes in hard to find GM parts. Works at Marietta Pontiac,
770 953-1800

Super guy, tell him your in a car club and you'll get 10% off.

Bill Speed

No word from the radiator seller yet ...ugh. I saw the switch for side mirrors I think, but I need the glued to windshield/screen button it attaches to. Mine came loose. No telling if buttons come with a mirror on eBay. typically they'd be pulled in good shape..haha
Bill

Bill Speed

I got a NAPA rear view kit but alas, the old one still remains and the reciept, g0d knows where... I used a tape suggestion to hold the button to the newglue and slid the mirror on 48 hours or so later in temps on the verge of freezing. My top has a few issues as mentioned, will be looking at that or my Cad next year. It's time to get on it for sure. The cost is a major holdup as I had diverted plans several years running on other events. Items like the hood shock-supports proved to be well worth a small investment!
I have a pic of the glass defrost window someone had posted...pretty neat but not too cheap. I'm sticking with plastic for now

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Yes. It is much easier and cheaper to repair the trim than to buy a replacement piece. Remove the trim and roughen up the inside with a Dremel. Form thin (.020") aluminum to match the curves of the trim. Drill or punch a few small holes in it. This will allow for better adhesion when you epoxy it to the inside of the plastic trim. If you can't find the thin aluminum at the hardware store you can order it online from McMaster-Carr. I use Plastic welder II epoxy which is also available from them.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

Speedgraphic

Lon,

Thanks for the pointers on repairing the overhead comvertible top trim. I will probably try it this coming weekend.

GREAT INFO!

Speedy

Bill Speed

Mine is in fair shape but where screws attach plastic, that's where things get sticky in more then one area...often over tightened and stressed. The rear seatbelt guide surrounds are a problem for me.
BILL

Speedgraphic

BillSpeed,

Are you referring to the plastic stuff around the rear seat belts or are you referring to the plastic pieces fit over and around the area where the front seatbelts go into the "B" pillar?

Speedy

Bill Speed

There's a big piece that wraps around the whole section on the upper door jam, then where the belt is, a smaller section that's split on one side...looking at the part now, it's extended below with two screw holes, it bends towards the rear of the car up top, when installed. I removed at least one of those and I think the big one as well due to some difficulty. They are costly and hard to replace so I've just put them away for future consideration.

The appearence is not too keen or clean with these but they seem like the official hardware.
I'll have to take some new pics of parts I may need to scrounge up. I'll be replacing rusty bolts and stuff over the next year...all the cheap stuff first most likely. For big expenses, I'm concentrating on a replacement trans for the Cad I just picked up.
Bill

Speedgraphic

BillSpeed,

I know the part you are talking about. They seem to be as rare as hens teeth. I have both of mine but I would like to replace with something better. I've seen a couple sets of these on Ebay but they sold for what I thought were high $$$

I have thought about trying to fabricate something to put in it's place. Finding the time is the hard part...

Speedy

Bill Speed

If one of the custom fab shops is reading, a better integrated design that builds on the good aspects, at a nice price.... You got my vote. It looks a bit shabby in the condition I bought it. I have to get a pic when I can so you know if mine has any differences. One Third gen catalog I got had the large plastic covers. On the Cadillacs for example, you'd just attach the boot to cover unsightly design flaws showing