Let me start this off on the right foot. I have sold my beloved '86 IROC coupe and next year or at the latest the year after will want to buy an IROC or RS 'vert. Clearly I'm going to miss the ZZ4 when going to the standard 305, but performance isn't everything I'm more concerned about reports of audible creaks and groans as the chassis are so weak and doors not shutting etc.

Do sfc's and stb's really tighten the car up? I know it did to my coupe. Am I making the right choice going for a 'vert- I think they look stunning!! I will ideally want a stick shift. Very rare in the UK, but I want to get it right!

Any advice or tips appreciated.

Hope to be part of the clan soon- I miss my IROC already

Cheers,
Felix

 

aftermarket SFC's will deff help. and a STB wont hurt either.

if your really feeling like a corner carver put a 6point roll bar in it.

 

Any mod. that will stiffen the frame (Subframes, STB, etc.) will definitely help. I have the Alston/TDS subframes and it made a world of difference, but I'm still thinking of adding the Spohn SFC's in conjunction with what I already have, since it's still not as stiff as I want it. IMO, convertibles handle like a wet noodle in stock form. ASC did add what is essentially an SFC (although it doesn't really connect to the subframe) to the outer rail of these cars, but from a performance standpoint it falls way short...

You may also need to tighten the top frame itself (joints, etc.) I just had a new rear window installed in my 'vert a couple weeks ago and just by R&R'ing the top, now that it is on a little tighter, it took a lot of the creaks and squeaks out of it.

 

because my convertible wasnt abused by its previous owners (i admit, im hard on her) my vert actually felt TIGHTER then the other 3rdgen coupes ive owned.

yes they still flex... if you put one knee on the center console, and the other knee on the door and go up a incline at a angle, you can feel it flex.


but with SFCs, they tighten up well. it certinly doesnt do it bad enough to take away the enjoyment from the car.

matter of fact, with the top down, because theres nothing to contain and "amplify" the interior noise, its rattle free. the only annoying noise in my car is one of the bows in the top... and thats a car prob specific to my car, not a usual one.


as far as underpowered... well, in my opinion, all 3rdgens are underpowered, however, the verts are no worse off then any other 3rdgen, other then the fact that you cant get a 350.


buy one and enjoy.

 

IMO if you go for a vert you must also go for SFCs and STB and make sure the STB is a three point unit. This will cut down cowl shake. The only noise mine makes is when the top is up (it rattles)

 

Thanks guys, really want one!! May have to Import from the States.... Some good ones on ebay over there.

 

One of the stiffest, best handling cars I have driven was a 'vert. Why??? 6 point cage!!! Not only good for handling, can be effective at preventing headaches in unlikely rollover.LOL. Looks awesome. Did I mention looks awesome?? Car also had SFC's, STB, Poly bushings, and 17" Toyo T-1S. Almost forgot, had drop springs too.

 

6point here...

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...shieldshot.jpg

 

I have the Alston SFC's and a Three Point Edelbrok STB on my car. I upgraded rubber to larger 16x8 4th gen rims and Goodyear Eagles 255/60. My car will carve a corner with just about anybody.

I have a friend who has a hardtop GTA. He claims my vert is stiffer than his car...

One other thing that will help a lot is to replace the door bushings. On a unibody car the rigidity of the door has a lot to do with the rigidity of the car...

Good luck getting your 3rd Gen Vert in the UK. Send us some pics when you get it on the road!

Speedy

 

That, plus the fact that you couldn't get any decent gears on the 'verts, other than G92 being offered in '87-'88 only. My red car has the 3.23 rear, and the black one the 2.73, and the difference is like night and day. But guess which one turns more heads?

 

They are very slow and flexible. I did an 8 point chromo rollbar welded to a set of Southside Machine subframe connectors undrneath. Not sure if I want a STB yet but the Edelbrock TBI unit looks the best IMHO. I went carb also so the TBI setup fits me, not the TPI unit.

The subframe connectors alone really do stiffen the car and let the suspension do what it's supposed to do.

Safesty wise also...I totalled my first IROC-Z(first car owned also) 3 days after having SSM Subframes welded in. If you look at the pics of the wreck, 45mph into the side of a Dodge Dakota, the entire engine bay crumpled and the damage stopped where the subframes start. Luckily that happens to be where the passengers feet were in my case. I parted that car out, cut the subframes out of it and they were perfectly straight and now they're on my convertable.:hail:

 

I'll tell everyone my car is "No Speed All Class"

A friend of mine once told me your car can't be all things....so I don't care about fast. The 305 is respectable, has nice exhaust tone and is a good cruiser....race car it is not.

Im happy to own a rare 3rd Gen Vert. Long after others have encountered big buck repairs or investment trying to have the fastest car on the street (and there is always someone faster, just ask John Force) I'll still be getting the thumbs up from fellow drivers and compliments on my vert.

 

How much do you feel that the roll cage cuts down on your visibility and feeling of openness??? One of the things i love about these cars is how big and open they feel when the top is down. I've been contemplating putting in a cage when i redo my car (aka when i get a full time job and have some money). I'd hate to lose that if it can be avoided.

 

But, fact is...You can get a 350, and even mod it up from the stock 235hp! Even aftermarket modded, add a stickshift manual.
I want to keep passenger option open, therefore, nothing visable like a roll cage. My car has served as dailydriver and typically at regular speeds so a roll cage and 5 point harness aren't really needed. If you've seen Ed Hamburger's SLP 3rd gen verts, you know with the right cage and harness...with all the SLP goodies, they look ready to take on all comers!!

Bill

 

A trend Im starting to see more of is replacing the TPI 305 or 350 with a LS1. Hawks 3rd Gens had the cover car in High Performace Pontiac w/ an LS1 and a roots type Supercharger seting on top.

Being just a two hour drive from his South Carolina shop I know of a couple of his cars....one being done now.

Out the door with Mod'd LS1 and 6 speed is in the $7-8K range. 400RWHP and 28MPG is a good thing.

Someday, I would like to do the same but my current 305 (Remanufactrured by Jasper) only has 15K miles on it so I will wait at least a few more years...Hey by then I can get an LS2

 

Mine seems tight , and I think there's plenty of POWER.

 

LBSZ28...wow very nice. What kind of dyno numbers are up pulling with that SC'd 355??

Looks great. Here a pic of the engine bay of my other TA...Mod'd LT4 366RWHP

 

You might have seen the Paxton Camaro TPI supercharger kit on eBay a few weeks back ...around $650 or so, but ended near $1300 final win price
Still reasonable? Sounds like alot of cost in engine mods too! How much HP did that get it up to and is that a 350 overbored? I'm not aware of all engine sizes, novice that I am haha
I see the brace between strut positions, but not really mounted to them, requires welding joints?
Bill

 

Back in the spring on a DYNOJET it put out 418rwhp and 443 rwtq
at a AFR of 12.4 spaying Methanol, thats right at 500hp at the crank, I'm in the process of doubling the boost with a VR4 Supercharger upgrade should have new Dyno and drag strip #'s
next spring.

 

Yes, lots of money in the engine, trans, and car.
The engine is a 350 4 bolt bored .0.30 over built by KIM BARR Racing, it has all forged internals, O-ringed cylinders, copper
head gaskets, and much much more, and there are a number
of chassis and suspension stiffening mods.

 

Do copper gaskets benefit a stock L98? How about manifold gaskets? I likely need a new set, and possibly new heads or re-machining mine. I got a Felpro set off eBay but they were damaged and, I, being a novice, didn't realize they wouldn't work unless completely flat and unmarred.

Bill

 

Copper head gaskets are only needed in a high boosted engine.
I had them installed and the block milled for Stainless Steal O-rings, so I wouldn't need to be changing or blowing head gaskets.

I'm runing the Blow proof copper header gaskets also.
I don't like doing things more than once so I built this car/engine/trans with overkill in mind.

 

I like that ideology. People I work with say there are many sub-standard gaskets for these cars, and recommend nothing but Felpro to go with. I've read this on eBay as well... Was looking at Mr. Gasket, but they say 'no'
I'd like to change to stainless steel pipes and headers at the very least... to up performance and kill replacement there
Bill

 

Louis, I just wanted to say :hail: :hail: to you... Great car man.

 

You are just a freak though. Best 3rd Gen Vert I've ever seen.

Sorry for gushing.

 

Not to sound like a sceptic, but that's a bit hard to believe considering you don't list aftermarket heads in your mod list, not to mention that cam is enormous for stock heads.

 

The Firehawk drop tops get my vote for best ones ever, but it's certainly a super 3rd gen!

Bill

 

There not stock heads, they are the alluminum L98 heads ported & pollished by GTP out of Houston 2.00 int. & 1.6 ex undercut Valves and have been milled to handle .600 lift with out coil bind, The Cam is also a custom one of kind Blower grind made for this engine by CompCams.

I guess I need to work on updating my mod list and web site,
maybe I'll do that during the hollidays.

Here's a pic that shows the heads on the engine while on the stand.

 

While I paid $8600 for my car... I heard someone here quote a crate motor that may have had mods at $7000 ready to go, How much was the work on that motor you had done, if you don't mind the Q? What did you save from the stock setup, how many miles were on that and was it in need of hi-perf makeover?
Bill

 

Ok that makes more sense.

 

I think I have over $10,000 in it, but that includes everything New
callies forged crank, egle forged 6 in rods, custom JE forged pistons, All new ARP hardware/Bolts and nuts, New TPIS big mouth Lower Intake Ported big time to match my big ported heads and Large tube runners, new 6qt oil pan with scraper and windage tray, new high flow oil pump with Heavy duty drive shaft,
and much more.

 

Just looking at the paper today at cars listed in the Thrifties section; Northstar eq. mid-1990s Cads listing at less then $5Gs, it's true enthusiests that go that extra mile. I don't know if I have that fervor, but I know I did appreciate switching to new wheels everynow and then and that makes it hard to decide to live with the car you have. I just got my legal problems taken care of the past week, all springing from my Firebird breaking down and looking for a 'winterbeater' last year. Now I have two cars not working but the Bird is being readied for action again...slowly
;:~)

 

LOOK! It's Ted Nugent!

 

(scrambling to cover double post)

 

Back when I had money...sorry it's so big. Speaking of Ted, I'm looking for his New Years Eve 1988 Whiplash Bash... That concert rocks!
My buddy has a related question about the engine pic, it looks like the cast iron block used in the pics, he's wondering why the expense and then building on that?
Bill