Holy hell. It's been said so many times in this thread. Just read! There was ONE post saying something else that was quickly bunked. You need the whole assembly!

 

AWSOME !!!


one more thing to put on the "to do" list ..





.....

when i got some money lying around, im gonna get a viper alarm system and get the trunk and the windows hooked up ..


then i can walk up to the car, throw my school stuff in the trunk while rolling down the windows .. then two latches and the top is down ..

YIPPEEE for technology .. lol .. who ever said you need some cadilac ..

hahah ..

 

Just remember you have to close the trunk BEFORE opening the tonneau.

Lon

 

I wonder how difficult it would be to put a mercury switch on the trunk lid and the tonneau lid so that both could not be opened at the same time... Electrically....

John

 

I've had the trunk popper for a few years now and haven't opened both at the same time yet. It just takes some common sense.
And how often do we stow the top at the same time as accessing the trunk area?

Fortunatelly, the trunk lid doesn't fly open when you pop it. It just stays down. So if you realize your mistake, nothing bad has happened yet.

It really is no biggie.

Lou

 

yea .. i dont think ill be multitasking when taking the top down .. or putting stuff in the trunk .. lol

but good point

 

do you have any pics i got a pull down unit from a 92 camero with the tan colored piece

 

now what do i need to do to add power trunk to my 92 trans am convertible

 

 

funny, but i have been told different things

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...01-post51.html

 

Ok, here's my situation. I have a 1992 Camaro Convertible. First thing I did after getting it was installed an alarm/remote start/keyless entry. I wanted to be able to open the trunk with the remote instead of having to flip the plate down and use the key because 1 it was scratching my plate frame, and 2 I like keeping the door key in my wallet so if somehow I lock the keys in the car I can still get in. Anyways, I bought one of the 91.5-92 pull-down latches with the tan casing, bolted it right in, did a little modifying of the electrical stuff (I have it set so that not only can it not be opened when the car isn't in park, but when the tonneau is open it will not open and vise versa. I also have it hooked up so the console switch only works when the key is in but the remote works any time). I also had to modify the mounting of the trunk lid struts a little bit - even though they were brand new the motor would still pull the trunk back closed, so I had to move where they attach inside the trunk down about 1" This has worked perfectly for the last 6 months.

Now I have a couple problems. 1-because it's a 92, my car has the molded carpet for the driver's and pass side. I think the plastic pieces look a lot cleaner and more refined, so I bought a couple of those to put in. Unfortunately with the struts mounting point moved down they will collide with the plastic pieces if I completely close the trunk. 2-I'm trying to install a locking shelf. Please don't try to convince me not to or whatever I have my reasons for wanting this. If you don't think it's a good idea, cool - like I said I have my reasons and I want to. Anyways, I got the shelf and the plastic latch trim that will accept the shelf, but they are both from a non-pull-down car. I have been unable to find one from a car with the pull-down latch. The hole on top that the latch moves up and down through I could easily make bigger, but it looks like it's definitely not deep enough for the pull-down latch. I have a few questions regarding this...I know they made this trim piece stick out more for pull-down equipped cars, but is the 91.5-92 pull-down latch more low profile and would fit? (probably wishful thinking) Will the 91.5-92 slam down latch the car came with originally even fit in there? Is there ANY way to make the 91.5-92 slam-down one power operated?

If I could make the 91.5-92 slam down latch power it would solve all my problems...I'd be able to relocate the trunk lid struts to their original mounting locations to they would clear the plastic trim, and I could use the shelf and trim I already have. It seams like I should be able to get any solenoid to pull the cable to unlatch it, although it'd be really cool to get the solenoid referred to earlier to bolt right in it looks like someone tried that and was unsuccessful. I know the other option would be to attach the older style slam latch, but I guess that requires more than drilling new holes - taking the whole mounting plate from another car and welding it to mine, is that correct?

Any tips, advice, etc would be greatly appreciated!