Need help locating a part for a 91 vert RS.Actually a few parts but this ones the kicker. Now to let you know I am new here and like what I see.I was a gen 1 and 2 builder and a ASE mastertech in diagnostics for a very long time.I know cars and F-bodies well did tons of frame off restores and always other peoples comebacks.Turning wrenches 35 years+

Here is my problem never did a 3 before other than general repairs and motor drop ins I built.Under the drivers and pasangers door is a frame rail I would guess to be a stabelizer rail to stop twist.It goes from the rear fender well to the front under the piller under the car.It does not however connect to the sub frame.It is riveted in very well.Do you guys know where I can get this part or a tleast the name of it.

I understand I join this board asking right off .I was on F-body.com since it started but have been directed here.If you check there I help many out.I am a perfectionist so I do things correctly. I have had many cars in Hot rod mags.I can clearly admit I do not know the 3rd gen body at all.The drive train is no problem.Could I get some help here please its driving me nuts.I would guess by measurements the doors and fenders interchange o problem just need to know if I need to put a limiter rubber block on the window also.

Also is there a section for trade like I have dart heads blowers etc from stuff from my past.I have cash if I can find the parts I need also.MD area

Please help

 

These cars all started out as T-Top cars. A third-party company called ASC converted them into convertibles. Part of the ASC convertible conversion process included adding massive sub-frame connectors. They run parallel to and just behind the side rocker panels, from the front to rear wheel wells. They are about three inches wide and the backside of the ground effects are cut longitudinally to make room for these rails. You can also buy aftermarket sub-frame connectors that will install as an addition to the stock ones. The stock ones are not very good at limiting frame twist. Basically these cars all have torsional twist problems due to the lack of a hard-top roof.

 

Thanks bigtime so even though they are Titled as a vert they started as a T -top and were conversions . I worked on tons of verts but never a frame tye issue or stabelser like that .Anything that we stroked we tubed the frame when we were kids and that was gen 2s . I am more of a stock person and restore to stock .

Ok how do I proceed ? I have withdrawn from installing all the new parts but running into shop hours until I knew if I could find that part or not . Md law is the worst in the US for inspections and I don't buy available tickets if there were any available . I do it correct.

She is perfectly straight only reason I took it over another . Will be 100% stock . Is this ASC corp still stocking the units or should I remove and have a machine shop make me one ? Is there a secondary market where I can get one in solid mint shape ? A used parts dealer for these cars ?I can blast and paint . Also what am I looking for cost wise on the AREO spoilers for door and below . Also need to locate a door if the effect mount rail on the door is different .

Thanks

 

I have to ask. If the car is perfectly straight, why remove the factory frame connectors? I have never looked for the factory frame connectors but I seriously doubt you will find any sitting on a NOS shelf somewhere. If you have a very complete car your lucky. My vert was basically a basket case missing many vert specific parts. There is someone parting out a 91,I think,vert in the exterior parts for sale section on here.I don't know if someone would go through the trouble of trying to remove them though.
On the Areo style spoilers I'm not sure about the door section but the rocker panel section mounts different on a vert. I have read where people have modified the coupe spoilers to work but if your wanting to go 100% I believe there is a differance. I have a set of aero rocker spoilers off a coupe and they don't even come close to mounting up correctly on my 88 vert.
I hope someone can point you in a good direction for aftermarket parts that I don't know about. Top down solutions and Hawks are sponsors on here and they have a few things but not much.
Most vert specific parts are made from unobtainium.

 

Well here is the issue. I got the car from a guy that went sideways somehow . He dinged the door bad and front fender >Easy replace > ALSO he crushed that frame connector below the rocker but the rocker is perfect the frame connector is hexed. Took a frame guy with me before pick up .His suggestion was remove the part have one duplicated .With door off I pushed the fender back out but she will sublet back if leaned on so I either take it off and heat and shim it or just replace it.Well if I have it off I might as well replace it.Everything is straight and the cars complete.MD LAW REQUIRES ME TO PUT THAT STOCK PART BACK so I MUST fine the frame connector or have one made . I also want it stock as its near mint.I would say my biggest expense will be frame connector and paint - now Black. The rest I have 50% frame offed so far with a few fights but nothing scary.

 

Easy way to describe it is he slid sideways up a guardrail on the connector but did not nix the rest how -I dont know.But its perfect without the frame connector. Got lucky when I rolled the dice on it.Like the car and already dumped a lot into it in smalls.Must find or have a connector made

 

I suspect that the only place to get a stock replacement frame rail would be to cut it off of another convertible. It looks to me to be just a square or rectanglular shaped tube, so I think that you could fab one that looks pretty close to stock.

I also think that I read that the front fenders have to be trimmed at the bottom to fit properly on a convertible.

While you have the car apart, you may want to rebuild the door hinges. All of these cars develop door sag due to the weight of the doors wearing out the hinge pin assemblies. You can buy a rebuild kit from Hawks as I recall.

 

Thanks for the tip.I see weld marks done properly looks like ten years ago the hinges were replaced properly. Yes I am quoted $400 for a machine shop to duplicate the part exact only problem its stainless I need to burr and paint.So I am trying to buy one used.I think that would be worth it to a person if the throw in the effect mount maybe a cover.

do you know what the trim off amount is and axes or is there a templet anywhere or diagram? If not Ill make one while I do it if I cant get the correct part.

Thank you so much that trim off will help a great deal as I wont be fighting with body tools and a strech-shim tool trying to get it to fit.I am anel retentive so all lines must be tight and perfect.