Hi,

I'm planning to install a set of SFC's on my 92 'vert and was wondering is there any specific tips involved with installing them, such as leveling the chassis before welding, etc. I plan on ordering the ones I saw on TDS's website.

Thanks in advance,
TT

 

all 4 wheels on the ground, if you think your chassis sags in middle (door area) jack it up, and of course remove your carpeting or it will melt when welding

 

Mike,

Kinda hard to slide under the car with all 4 on the ground, isn't it?

 

I think he meant to say that you want the car's suspension supporting its weight, not the car's frame.

The best way to get to the underside is to put the car up on a drive-on type lift. Since most of us don't have access to one, the usual method is to either: tack the SFC's in place with the car on the ground then drive it somewhere like a muffler shop to finish the welding, or put the car up on jackstands with the stands under the control arms in the front and under the axle in the rear. That way the suspension is still supporting the car's weight.

 

Best option is a drive on lift at the welders location

Second best would be some ramps under the front wheels, and jack stands under the rear axle....

All welding should be done with the full weight of the vehicle on the suspension. If your doors sag, I doubt SFC's are going to fix that. I do not recommend jacking the car up in the middle, or anywhere for that matter to fix a sagging door issue

Good luck with the install. It was the best thing I did to my 'vert (Twice even!)

-jason

 

Agreed. If the doors are sagging, you need pins/bushing/adjustment.

 

Sorry, I guess I took Mike too literally. Thanks for the help everyone, knew I could count on you guys.

BTW the doors show no signs of sagging, this is just about tightening up the unibody structure.

Thanks Again!

 

An alignment rack is what you want.

 

Well a tip i can add is when i did mine, in order to get them up where they belong i had to drill out the big rivets that stick down under the car where they pinched the floors between the new boxes they added and then replace them with countersunk head style bolts from underneath with nuts on top, i also cut off the excess after tightening them and welded the bolt to the nut to stop it from backing out. I hope this helps

 

You won'rt need to drill out the rivets if you're installing the Alston SFC's I sell. They don't install anywhere near the sheet metal boxed section ASC installed that choekstra17 is referring to.

Lon

 

Thanks!

 

One thing I noticed when I installed mine is I had to grind off all the paint in the cup of the SFC and the area on the frame where the cup goes it was a very tight fit which is good. So just do a little more grinding than the area you are welding and use some weld thru primer and your good to go.

 

Cut & pasted directly from the installation instructions that come with the Alston SFC's I sell:

"Recommendations:
It is recommended that the SFC’s be installed professionally. The car must be supported in a level position with the weight of the car on the suspension. The easiest way to do this is by using a drive-on style lift. If you are welding the SFC’s (which we also recommend) you’ll need to use a MIG welder (aka GMAW gas-metal arc welding). A SMAW (shielded metal arc welder, aka “stick” welder), which has a flux-covered electrode that is struck to start an arc is not recommended. You’ll just wind up burning holes through the thinner gage metal of the car body. MIG welding is the preferred method of attachment. Bolting alone will work for a short time, but as the car flexes it will cause movement of the bolts attaching it to the car, which will wear the holes compromising the attachment of the SFC’s. Mounting bolts are in the kit to allow you the option of installing these SFC’s yourself, then driving the car to a shop to have them welded. You can leave the bolts in place after welding for additional strength.
There are some precautions that need to be taken before welding these in. Welding of the SFC’s to the sub-frames causes intense localized heating to the floorboards. The interior of the car needn’t be removed, but you should remove the plastic doorsill plates and slip in a few 2x4’s to lift the carpeting and insulation away from the floor. It is also a good idea to keep a wet rag handy or a squirt bottle filled with water in the event that something gets a little too warm. Welding can cause an arc to the ECM harness shorting it out. It is also a good idea to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery when welding..."

"8. Grind the paint from the front and rear connector cups where it is to be welded to the car. Remember to follow the precautions mentioned in the “Recommendation” section above."

Lon Salgren