Convertible removing the Original Subframes
#1
Convertible removing the Original Subframes
Hey everyone.
3 days ago, i bought a 1992 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am 5.0 Convertible. This Car has the Original Ground effects and under this the Original Subframes.
My idea is to build a Knight Rider K.I.T.T. Replica Convertible.
The problem is this Subframe and the Ground Effect, because the Original K.I.T.T. don't has this Subframes.
Now my big question!
Can i remove the Original Subframes without problems or is the car not longer stable?
For the stability i will get a other option for subframes under the Car!
Is it possible or has somebody already done that?
Sorry for my bad English :-) :-) :-)
best wishes everyone
Dominic from Germany
3 days ago, i bought a 1992 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am 5.0 Convertible. This Car has the Original Ground effects and under this the Original Subframes.
My idea is to build a Knight Rider K.I.T.T. Replica Convertible.
The problem is this Subframe and the Ground Effect, because the Original K.I.T.T. don't has this Subframes.
Now my big question!
Can i remove the Original Subframes without problems or is the car not longer stable?
For the stability i will get a other option for subframes under the Car!
Is it possible or has somebody already done that?
Sorry for my bad English :-) :-) :-)
best wishes everyone
Dominic from Germany
#3
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Car: 2002 Firehawk & ws6 1989 Iroc Z
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Re: Convertible removing the Original Subframes
Years ago there was a white '88-'90 Iroc Z parked in a garage. I stopped to ask about the car & the owner came out. We walked into the garage & he told me it was his mom's car, she bought it new. It was a convertible, but was built as a hard top. She had the top cut off so she could have a vert. Learning this, I noticed the gap at the front of the driver's door was touching the fender up top & there was a good 1/4" gap at the bottom. She did not have the shop reinforce the chassis & the car was junk. Don't know if she or the shop was at fault but the car was totaled by the son. Flat bed picked it up for scrap. Shame, really.
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Car: '91 GTA, '92 T/A Convertible
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Re: Convertible removing the Original Subframes
Terrible idea. Just a really bad idea. What's with Germans and their fascination with the Hoff?
#6
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Re: Convertible removing the Original Subframes
Why destroy a 91-92 Trans Am convertible? They are one of the rarest third gens you can find. Less than about 1,300 made total for both years combined. I'd find a more common Bird to do what you're trying to do. But hey, it is your car and if you choose to destroy it then it just makes mine even rarer...
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Car: 2002 Firehawk & ws6 1989 Iroc Z
Engine: All 3 have 350s
Transmission: Birds manual Iroc auto
Axle/Gears: TAs 342 & Iroc who knows?
Re: Convertible removing the Original Subframes
Yes it was. I couldn't help but thinking why did she buy a coupe or t top, I don't remember, if she wanted a vert? She ruined a perfectly good car. I seem to think there were only 15k miles on it.
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Re: Convertible removing the Original Subframes
I'm sorry Dominic1986. Americans can be unpleasant.
Best is to leave the subframe connectors. Even the hardtop cars were built so poorly that subframe connectors are recommended.
Best is to leave the subframe connectors. Even the hardtop cars were built so poorly that subframe connectors are recommended.
#9
Re: Convertible removing the Original Subframes
yes of course. i will install Subframes for this Car, but under the Car. After this i will remove the Original Frames.
Is this possible? A other Option is, i change the GTA Ground Effects with the smaller Ground Effects from the 85 GTA
Is this possible? A other Option is, i change the GTA Ground Effects with the smaller Ground Effects from the 85 GTA
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Re: Convertible removing the Original Subframes
Even though I partially agree with trying to preserve one of the rarest third gens out there, it's your car. You do with it what you want. Yes, you can remove the original subframes BUT if you want to keep from junking the car you MUST do the following:
1. Install inboard subframes that do not interfere with the originals (Alstons for instance).
2. Brace the doors both front to back, top to bottom, and crossed. This will act as a "roll cage" giving the car enough rigidity for the next two steps.
3. Remove the original subframes while the car is supported ON THE WHEELS AND TIRES or adequately leveled suspension (A-arms and differential)
4. This step is optional but highly recommended. Install ANOTHER set of connectors (outboard)
5. The car should now be rigid enough to remove the bracing installed up top.
1. Install inboard subframes that do not interfere with the originals (Alstons for instance).
2. Brace the doors both front to back, top to bottom, and crossed. This will act as a "roll cage" giving the car enough rigidity for the next two steps.
3. Remove the original subframes while the car is supported ON THE WHEELS AND TIRES or adequately leveled suspension (A-arms and differential)
4. This step is optional but highly recommended. Install ANOTHER set of connectors (outboard)
5. The car should now be rigid enough to remove the bracing installed up top.
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Car: 1988 IROC Convertible
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Re: Convertible removing the Original Subframes
Something along this line [img]webkit-fake-url://1da66674-aff2-4852-acbd-fb108734da53/imagejpeg[/img]
Google images of bracing comvertible and you'll get the idea.
Last edited by galletti; 10-24-2017 at 10:21 AM. Reason: Add pic
#14
Re: Convertible removing the Original Subframes
Even though I partially agree with trying to preserve one of the rarest third gens out there, it's your car. You do with it what you want. Yes, you can remove the original subframes BUT if you want to keep from junking the car you MUST do the following:
1. Install inboard subframes that do not interfere with the originals (Alstons for instance).
2. Brace the doors both front to back, top to bottom, and crossed. This will act as a "roll cage" giving the car enough rigidity for the next two steps.
3. Remove the original subframes while the car is supported ON THE WHEELS AND TIRES or adequately leveled suspension (A-arms and differential)
4. This step is optional but highly recommended. Install ANOTHER set of connectors (outboard)
5. The car should now be rigid enough to remove the bracing installed up top.
1. Install inboard subframes that do not interfere with the originals (Alstons for instance).
2. Brace the doors both front to back, top to bottom, and crossed. This will act as a "roll cage" giving the car enough rigidity for the next two steps.
3. Remove the original subframes while the car is supported ON THE WHEELS AND TIRES or adequately leveled suspension (A-arms and differential)
4. This step is optional but highly recommended. Install ANOTHER set of connectors (outboard)
5. The car should now be rigid enough to remove the bracing installed up top.
I will get the Alstone inboard subframes in the next time.
What for options do i have for outboard subframes that will not disturb the Alstone subframes?
Which manufacturers are there
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Re: Convertible removing the Original Subframes
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Re: Convertible removing the Original Subframes
The original K.I.T.T. wasn't a convertible either so I don't know why you're splitting hairs with the rest of it. A third gen is the last car I would start screwing with the structural intergrity of, especially a convertible.
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Re: Convertible removing the Original Subframes
There are a few subframe connectors (assuming that is what we are talking about) that do not show from the outside. The Spohn are one of them and they are very good.
Another (which requires more work) are Detroit Speed. These are some of the best and hide completely but again, require more work.
The ThirdGen convertibles are very flexible to begin with and are much better with added subframe connectors. I really would not recommend removing any support for these cars.
Another (which requires more work) are Detroit Speed. These are some of the best and hide completely but again, require more work.
The ThirdGen convertibles are very flexible to begin with and are much better with added subframe connectors. I really would not recommend removing any support for these cars.
#19
Re: Convertible removing the Original Subframes
There are a few subframe connectors (assuming that is what we are talking about) that do not show from the outside. The Spohn are one of them and they are very good.
Another (which requires more work) are Detroit Speed. These are some of the best and hide completely but again, require more work.
The ThirdGen convertibles are very flexible to begin with and are much better with added subframe connectors. I really would not recommend removing any support for these cars.
Another (which requires more work) are Detroit Speed. These are some of the best and hide completely but again, require more work.
The ThirdGen convertibles are very flexible to begin with and are much better with added subframe connectors. I really would not recommend removing any support for these cars.
OK. but if I install 2 different subframes before removing the original subframes, should the body have enough stability, right?
#20
Re: Convertible removing the Original Subframes
At first First, I have to remove rust and weld the Car.
I think even if I want to build K.I.T.T. , I do not destroy the car.
I care much more about the car than many others.
I think even if I want to build K.I.T.T. , I do not destroy the car.
I care much more about the car than many others.
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#24
Re: Convertible removing the Original Subframes
As the owner of a '92 Firebird convertible, I can attest to the lack of rigidity - my windshield header flexes so much when I go over a speed bump at .5 MPH that I expect to see a radiating crack in the corner at any moment. The creaking & groaning of the body can only be drowned out by the distortion of the stock speakers & cassette deck played at high volume. The only time it's not making making any noise is when it's standing perfectly still - my wife won't get in it, she thinks it's a death trap. Personally, I think it just adds character.