I spliced into the wires on the firewall that are connected to the fan relays. Of the three relays, theres only two wires you connect to. Look for the green/white stripe wire on the relay all the way to the left(when looking from the front of the car) and use a quick splice on it. ON the relay all the way to the right, look for the lite gray wire(this goes to the fan sensor in the block), hook up another quick splice to it. Then, use an inline connector for both wires and crimp the inline connector on them. ON the other end of the connector I used 14ga wire and made a hole in the firewall to run to a 20amp toggle switch. Be sure not to used a lighted switch as these are for a 12v source and wont light up for this application. I mounted my switch under the dash close to the hood latch in that removable panel. Ground the other end of the switch to a good body panel or clean piece of metal. Thats it....now when I turn the switch on, BOTH fans come on. I also installed a 170* t-stat and drilled four .15" holes in it. No more problems with overheating.....Just thought Id share my experience. I forgot to mention I flushed the entire system and refilled it with Water Wetter and water only......The temp gauge never gets to over 195* now. Questions? comments? concerns?

 

im getting confused, you have it so both fans come one with the auto switch mounted on the block, or you ran a switch to control the fans in your car. I did that using 6 bucks in supplies and wrote a thingy in my webpage on how to do it.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tstrel.../fanrelay.html

Does drilling hole in the stat make a big difference????

~Tim

 

i think i might actually do this in a few days.. i have been looking for directions for a while thanks guys!!!

 

I ran both wires I spliced into at the relays to a toggle switch mounted in my car......hope that helps the confusion. As far as the holes in the t-stat, Ive heard that it keeps a constant restricted flow of coolant to the motor to keep hot pockets from forming.....I guess Im just over cautious.

 

I've read about doing this in a certain book from TPI. I have been curious to hear from people who have tried drilling the four(4) holes in the thermostat to see what results they had (before vs. after). I think I might give it a shot to see how it might help my situation out a little. They mentioned swapping the thermostat out in the winter time with one that had two or three smaller holes. They also mentioned plugging off the coolant bypass coming out of the waterpump and doing the thermostat drilling to compliment that change. Has anyone plugged the coolant bypass and done the thermostat drilling? how did it work or not work for yoU?

 

Yep, I did the plugged bypass in the block-also installed an Edelbrock high flow water pump at the same time and just drilled the holes in the thermostat (160deg.) And it ran hotter!!!! Turned out I had so much press. that it was pushing the thermostat closed as it tried to open. The solution was a "balanced high flow " thermostat; it's about $10.00 from Summit racing. Then it ran cooler!

 

I tried my 170 stat with 4 holes drilled in it. I think they were 1/8" diameter. But I DID NOT do the water pump coolant bypass. Here is what I found:

Car ran too cool!!! It would not heat up very fast, and would only get to 150degF! This was on a drive in to work with air temps around 40-50F. I also run car on a warmer day, and it only got to about 160deg. With the coolant flowing all the time, its' like the thermostat is not there! Maybe I should have drilled smaller holes. The engine shouldn't run that cool. The computer needs to see warmer temps for things to happen. So, it wasn't a good idea for me where I live. Somedays I actually need heat out of the car. It probably would work better for people running their cars in hotter climates.

I ripped that stat out, and put in a new 170 ACDelco unit (no holes). Car runs at normal temps now, and warms up nicely. I do run WatterWetter, with more water than antifreeze.