Ok Guys,

i was overheating and i went and got a 25 dollar cooling check at pepboys, i get back theres a puddle, and they say its my heater core so i grab a new one and i do the duty to save myself the 820 dollas they wanted to charge me,

the radiator cap seems to be working, the thermo was replaced shortly, im not sure if they flipped it upside down during the "inspection"

the thing idles and doesnt over heat after i replaced the core, so then i say lets try ac to see if it overheats, (it did before) it didnt at idle, so no probs,

but then i drove down the street and she overheated and overflowed into overfill and was bubbling,

ug i hate this,

My temp gauge doesnt work,
could that be something? could it be another sensor?

any other ideas bros? and could it really be a needed flush because i know its clean, and the water pump works, i took off cap, started car and then i saw it flowing.


thanx,

 

I tried the more simple stuff first, that might help you. It's possible that you've a big air pocket, and you can try bleeding it yourself by undoing a drain plug (partly) on the rad, and running up to temp whilst topping up the rad. When the stat kicks in also open the heater vent to hot, then top up some more before tightening up the bleed screw. (Please be very careful, I can send you some burned finger photos).

BTW, mine still bubbled back after doing this, so I had to take it to the shop to get a "vacuum" fill. This essentially guarantees a no air pocket water fill up. Seems to be this is sometimes required if anything other than the top radiator hose is removed.

Just MHO.

 

one of the most important things to have is your airdam underneath ur car, so is ur air dam intact?

 

First thing I would do is make sure of the two things mentioned. On a new fill or when the system is opened air trapped inside can replicate a serious cooling problem. Let the system cool down and take off the cap and run the engine while slowly moving the RPM's up and down. It will bubble and some may spill over but doing this for a few minutes is usually enough to get most residual air out. As far as the guage, the sender is on the driver side head about halfway towards the rear. It is a brass fitting with a single green wire. Sometimes the wire comes off or burns if not dressed properly. On these TG's having a guage is a must. Last is to check for cooling fan operation. The fan should come on when the AC is turned on. Most likely you had a lot of air in the system, hopefully it's already fixed.

 

Check out my reply to Chronic Overheating . Hey that picture looks like my car about a month ago

 

Oh yeah,I have a 1990 GTA so our temp sending units are probably in the same place . Mine is on the front of the engine , I dont know if it is in the block or manifold I just went out and looked but it is dark and my flashlight battery is dead , anyway it is right below that U shaped little hose just below the radiator hose . I changed mine thinking that this had some impact on when the fans came on , only to find out later that it just sends info to the gauge . But this might be why your gauge is not working , it only cost like $15 or $20 at Autozone.

 

Try replacing the radiator cap or getting yours' tested.

If the cap is not allowing pressure to build up in the cooling system, the water will boil (I.E. overflow) at abt 212*. Most of the caps I have seen, allow press to reach 12-15 psi.

For each pound of pressure, the boiling point of water raises abt 3 degs F.

This is how a car can run 250 degs (with 15 psi of press) and not boil over.
(15 psi X 3 degs= 45 psi rise in boiling point)

I had a cap go bad once.
I couldn't tell by looking at it that it was broke and really didn't think replacing it would help. I was wrong!

 

replaced it a couple days ago, erghk, wasnt that. the coolant turned brown? someone told me that it can be a cracked block. shisterz.