Hi, new guy here! (New 'Bird too!), and I've got a question.


My new Bird


Would a bad CTS sensor cause power loss/hesitation and occasional stalling with a cold/very hot engine? The engine will sometimes start right back up immediately (even roll-starting before I coast to a stop will do it most of the time) or occasionally need about 20 seconds to cool.

I also have a VERY LOUD whine from somewhere under the hood that will last about 5-6 seconds when I start it, then go away entirely. If I turn the ignition to run only, without starting, it doesn't make the sound. A warm engine will have a shorter sound, and a hot engine doesn't always make the sound. I've been thinking fuel pump, but I can't get anyone to confirm that...

And, lastly, boiling in the overflow res. is often caused by a bad ratiator cap letting the mix boil at 212, right?

Thanks!

 

i believe that the whine could be caused by the starter, my dads astro van does this on every startup. and yes, i would recomend changing the rad cap.
good luck.

 

I've heard starter whine before (74 Piper Cherokee 6... airplane) and this isn't it. Thie comes right after it starts, and would appear to be the alternator after all. When it whines, the dash charge meter reads almost 0, then comes up to normal as soon as the whine goes away.

 

Are you shure the belt isn't slipping ?

Has the Check Engine light ever come on while driving ?/ Have you checked to see if there are any codes stored ?

I wouldn't think a bad CTS would cause the car to stall or cause any severe drivability problems (but, don't quote me on that).
I know the CTS becomes unplugged on my 84 camaro all the time (the connector has had a better past life) and the only problem it seems to cause it the torque converter will not lock-up and the 'Check Engine' comes on. (crappy gas milage & no power are just bonus benifits of owning an lg4 engine :sillylol: )

 

I got it replaced, and it made a MAJOR difference in drivability. I still have problems with cold idling (guess: EGR and/or PCV valve) but I have cold power now (no throttle=insta-die) and smooth warm idle (no surging!). I had a code 15, now no more code 15, but a code 24 (VSS toast... )... But it runs great!

Now I just have to trace down a leak near the radiator cap, and a fuel vapor leak...

 

And the belt seems to be grabbing fine... Everyone seems to think it's a belt. I think that the alternator is starting to sieze up, and the belt slipps from that, but I can't see it slipping (sound or no sound...)

 

you got the same problem as i do with my (guess!) '87 Formula. the alternator whine (mine is belt slippage, but the belt is new and tight as hell!) and the dash gauge sometimes goes as far as into the red zone. what does yours charge at when not squealing? mine is ALWAYS below 13 and i said as soon as i get a weak crank ill replace it but i think i will tomorrow just to see if the problem is eliminated, oh and NICE FORMULA, is it stick or auto? also, i have the same occasional stall problem, and im gonna ask a dumb question. WHAT IS THE CTS? i have never heard of anything like that and i know darn near every sensor in that car! i might know of it but am used to hearing it called something else.

 

When not whining, the gauge is at 13 or just slightly below. While whining, red-zone.

It's a 5 speed stick

CTS == Coolant temperature sensor. It sends info to the ECM about the temperature of the engine core. If you remove the forward air ducting, and undo the alternator and move it out, you should be able to see two sensor things under the throttle body, at the front. One is a cold-start sensor/switch, the other (driver side, smaller) one is the CTS. It took a breaker bar for me to get mine out, but it did help...

 

Here's a pic!

 

That whine may be cavitation in your power steering pump. Mine is most often if I start the car 15-20 minutes after running for less than 5 minutes after a cold start. Mine goes away above about 1500 rpm, and goes away completely after 2-3 minutes of driving.

I seem to have cured mine by lowering the level of fluid in the Power Steering resivior. Mine was way over-filled, and by pumping out fluid to the 'full cold' mark, it seems to have gone away. Try monkeying with the fluid level, that seems to have done it for me.

I don't think it hurts anything, it just sounds like krap.

 

I always get it on a cold start. sometimes on warm starts... I'll check the level.