Alright guys - 330hp 350 running all the old 305 TBI cooling equipment (except a new water pump) - where should my temp be hovering? The car used to always run pretty cool but my gague started wavering a LOT over the past couple weeks so i changed the sensor but it still varies quite a bit (I can be running at 160' and stop at a light and it jumps RIGHT up at 220' after i take off - i'm kinda baffled. I'm thinking either my replacement sensor is bad, or my radiator is junk (I did notice the fins are rippled by the lower water tube hole) or my gagues are going wacky. My dad told me about a regulator on the guages that keeps them running on a consistent voltage? (I guess on his mustang it kicked the volts from 12 to 5 to run all the gauges?) Any help would be awesome guys - the car is finally starting to act decent (with the exception of a sticking TPS sensor sometimes...)

ty

 

might try a mechanical water temp gauge.

 

I have a 350 tbi, making about 320HP and my car runs at about 180 in heavy summer traffic and 160 on the freeway.
I'm using a stock replacement radiator, 160 degree thermostat and Stewart stage 1 water pump (http://www.stewartcomponents.com/index.htm)
Stewarts are the best IMO and are priced reasonably.
(My chip requires the lo temp stat) I'm also using two 14" Perma-Cool electric fans that I run constantly. At this temp oil pressure never dips below 40PSI.

Like brodyscamaro said, make sure the temp you're seeing is real. My factory temp gauge (even with a new sender) seldom reads the same as the Autometer Mechanical in the car and sometimes it's off by 30 degrees. At least with a mechanical gauge, you know what the temp is, no matter what voltage drop you may have at the dash. I think a mechanical oil pressure and water temperature gauge are good to have in any performance car.

Your radiator could be part of the problem if it's full of crud, but as far as the stock-size radiator goes, it should be ok at this power level. Big aluminum radiators are great, but at under 350HP, I don't think it's a requirement.

Make sure you still have the airdam in place under the front end.It makes a big difference.

-Rich-

 

well, i've got the air-dam in place as far as i know, i haven't cut anything out. I'm beginning to believe though that my radiator is junk. A friend of mine with a 305 TPI car replaced hers recently at around 70,000mi and my car has nearly 100,000 on it at present. Also, near the bottom inlet where the water pump hose attaches to the radiator, it looks like the fins are bent (not like from someone hitting them or rubbing against them) but like from warping - they're kinda in a wavy formation. I'm beginning to believe my theory that my radiator is clogged up - sometimes the car is ok, sometimes it isn't. I drove home tonight in 50' nighttime weather and the temp still was around 190'. I dunno. Where can a guy get a good non-aluminum 3-row radiator without spending an arm and a leg? If I'mna replace the radiator i want to go with something a bit 'better' - if not for performance then at least for bragging rights. lol - thanks again fellas!

Ty

 

I am running a zz-4 block with all stock cooling components, however I replaced everything. It runs the same as stock engine with the exception that it DOES seem to get hotter a little faster. Of course we have had many 100 degree days here. With a 195 stat in normal driving it stays on the line between the 220 and 100 degree marks. Stop and go she'll hover around the 220 mark, unless the AC is on then it's a little lower. The OE radiator is very efficient when it's clean and free of obstructions.