I did a search on removing the heater core, but I couldn't find the specifics I was looking for:

I have a coolant line that exits the front of my intake and enters the heater control valve. Two lines exit the valve - one enters the firewall and the other line "T"s into two lines (one enters the firewall and the other appears to go somewhere under the block). Next to the line that goes under the block, there is another line that appears to come from under the block and go into its own port on the radiator.

My question is: If I wanted to eliminate all of the afforementioned hoses and use only the 2 main lines in and out of the radiator (and the overflow line, of course), could I just cap the line that exits the front of the intake, cap the extra port on the radiator, and cap wherever water goes under the block (can someone explain where the 2 lines under the block go)?

If anyone has done this, or is familliar with what I am talking about, please chime in and help me out.

Thanks for all your help,
-Kyle

PS - I have a Long Tube Runner setup

 

I can tell you have a stuffy engine bay. If you removing the heater control valve, then you will be able to simplify the heater lines a lot. Those two lines that go towards the firewall do not enter the block, they go into nipples sticking out of the firewall. One is the inlet for the heater core and the other is the outlet for the heater core.
To get rid of all the excess ones run a line from the intake manifold water outlet to the inlet of the heater core on the firewall. Then you can run a heater hose from the outlet to the water pump or the radiator. IIRC, it does not matter which it goes to.
Now the only bit of information is which is the inlet nipple, the one on the driver's side or the passenger's side. The answer to this I once knew, but I have seem to forgotten. Hopefully somebody can chime in and tell you. Also, hopefully, somebody would come in and confer my information.
Brady

 

Thanks for the response, but I was thinking more along the lines of completely removing all the heater lines along with my heater core. Its odd, really, because I can find instructions on removing my heater core (already removed A/C), and I can find instructions on removing the heater control valve, but I cant find anything that tells me how to remove the heater hoses and what to plug.

Just to recap, the only heater hoses I want in my engine bay are the hose from the thermostat housing to the radiator and the hose from the water pump to the radiator.

To achieve this, after I remove my heater core, should I just cap the radiator where the heater line meets it, and the nipple on the front of my intake that feeds the hose to the heater control valve? Is there anything else to cap? What size caps should I use? I want to get all my materials before I drain my coolant and have no way to get to the parts store. Can anyone who has done this share their experience? I know TRAXION has done this, as an example, but would like advice from someone who did this to their daily driver as well.

 

I pretty much did what you are planning to do, capping off the nipples, etc. However, I would not use those rubber caps on the nipple off the front of the intake (that used to go to the heater control valve). My experience has shown that excess water pressure will eventually blow the end off the cap under full throttle! Those rubber plugs will be fine everywhere else, just not at that fitting.

I'd either remove the nipple and use a pipe plug (don't remember what size) or run the hose to the top nipple on the radiator. If you do this method you'll need an adapter that steps up the hose from 5/8" to 3/4". Or change the intake nipple to 3/4" and run the same size hose straight to the radiator nipple.

On mine I just ran the hose from the intake nipple to the radiator nipple because I couldn't get the intake nipple off.... damn thing was seized in there. Otherwise I would've plugged it.

I ended up making my heater functional again...it sucked in the winter not having heat.

 

Thanks for the help, IROC. But where do the 2 lines go under the block on the passenger side near the radiator? Near the former smog pump location they seem to change from rubber hose to steel line and dissapear under the crank. Any further help on this would be appreciated.

Also:

I think I've found a way to live with heater delete:
I saw a heating pad that runs off power from a cigarette lighter, and I thought to myself "why not just strap that to my rear when it gets real cold?" It has 3 settings - OFF, MED, and HI so at least I have some adjustability with it, and I can always unplug it when I go to the track. What do you guys think about that? Has anyone tried it? I might have to make a seperate post to get more feedback on this.

 

I'm not 100% positive but that might the factory oil cooler you're talking about. From what I've read most people ditch them anyways. I don't have a factory oil cooler so I don't experience with it....but if you look at your oil filter it should have 2 lines coming from that area.

 

I don't know what you're state laws are like, but unless you are making this a race only car, you will prolly need to keep the heater. In VA, you're heater must work for the car to pass inspection.

 

Take the line from the back of the intake, and connect it to the rad. on the passenger side. Thats all I did. Flows great, no problems. the line from the heater valve does turn into a steel hose, and goes to the firewall. I took all that crap out and it looks much better. Not much use for a heater in Florida. I can deal with a month of cold. Now I took the ac out too, but thats another story.

 

Thanks for the extra replies! I only have smog, no inspection so no problems here. It's a daily driver but im not a wimp - i forsake creature comforts in the pursuit of speed