I figured out that my water pump was leaking so i bought a new water pump and im going to attempt to install it myself.

But, I never done this before so i just wanted to know if its an easy install or what, and also it would be great if someone could give me really simple step by step removal and installation instructions.

P.S.--This is for the car in the sig.


Thanks,

EternalCamaro

 

Buy a shop manual.

Tim

 

i assume SBC engine from your signature, unbolt the fan if is mechanical fan, move upper shroud out of way/unbolt it.
unbotl upper alternator bracket and move it out of way, remove all the hoses, unbolt the four bolts holding pump to engine block.

pump comes off, may have to coax it off with some tapping with a blunt object.

not hard at all, youll be done in no time
pretty straightforward,

 

Thanks.

I did the installation myself and it was way easier then i thought everything is working perfectly now.

 

Hey EternalCamaro, I was wondering how easy you found the install to be? I am good with tools but have never really done any work on cars before. My water pump is starting to leak so it needs to be replaced and I am wondering if I can do this myself?
I read the Haynes manual, and know I will need to buy a torque wrench, but do I need anything special to loosen the tensioner and then readjust it to the proper tightness?
Also, I have an unmodified LO3, is there any point in getting an upgraded coolant pump, like the Stewart Stage I or II or even the Summit high flow unit, or just stay with a stock replacement? Can an LO3 be modded to the point the pump needs to be upgraded? I mean, the stock one worked for about 20 years so far...

Thanks for any advice with this...

 

You don't really need a torque wrench just for a water pump. A decent length breaker bar works for the tensioner, the spring in it will take care of the tensioning all by itself. You don't need anything more than a stock pump. The 383 in my 84 still uses a completely stock cooling system.

 

I just spoke to a mechanic to ask how hard the job was and he strongly discouraged me from trying. He said that if you're not careful when scraping away the old gasket material you will gouge the aluminum of the block. He said his shop uses a wire brush instead. I didn't know the block was aluminum. Any thoughts on this???

 

You need to find a mechanic that can tell the difference between aluminum and cast iron.

 

haha, I've never used them before and don't plan to start...a family friend recommended them.

 

Definitely not a hard job at all. The mechanic is right that you don't want to scratch up the gasket surfaces, but a sharp, flat putty knife works just fine. I've even used it on the aluminum T-stat housing. Just a matter of being a little careful.

 

Don't try it on your own, bring it to me and don't forget your checkbook! While it's in you might want me to double check your muffler bearings and alternator fluid.