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Damn plastic tanks keep cracking

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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 01:51 PM
  #1  
Tremo's Avatar
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From: San Jose, CA, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z - original owner!
Engine: LB9 with K&Ns, MSD, Foil, Taylor
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.45 posi
Damn plastic tanks keep cracking

OK, to hell with this stock radiator. This is like the fourth time that one of the plastic end tanks has cracked and started leaking. Who makes a decent aftermarket all-metal radiator that fits properly and I won't have to do a bunch of cutting, drilling, bending and hacking to get it in? Car is an 88 IROC with an LB9, T-5 and A/C. I also need a bit more cooling in the summer.

Thanks.
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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 01:58 PM
  #2  
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
BeCool or Griffen...


but you can save yourself $200 or so off their "direct fit" ones my getting a GM generic one.... the hose in and out is in almost the exact same place.. only the radiator cap location is really diffrent... you just need to make 2 simple cuts to clear that... a steak knife or even sissors would work. you just need to clearance the waterneck to fit.... its plastic and cuts easily. done carefully, it can even look stock.
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 12:48 PM
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From: San Jose, CA, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z - original owner!
Engine: LB9 with K&Ns, MSD, Foil, Taylor
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.45 posi
Thanks for the info on the generics. What is it that needs to be cut to fit the filler neck? Some of the plastic shrouding on the car?

Between BeCool and Griffin, which is better? My stock dual fans will still fit without modification? My stock hoses will still fit?

Thanks.
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 03:06 PM
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Any parts store can get you an all metal tank that is a direct replacment. Azone, Checker, Advanced, Nappa, Car Quest. They run about $140-180 depending on who you get it from.



AZone. GDI #438918, 3 core ALL METAL $131.99, Lifetime warrenty.

Last edited by SSC; Jan 10, 2004 at 03:10 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 11:15 PM
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www.RockAuto.com

Copper with metal side tanks.

When I pulled out my stocker, we (friends and I) held the two at the same time, and there was maybe 1-2 lbs difference.

Cost of alum. radiator... ~$150.00

Cost of copper radiator... ~$120.00

Longevity of copper radiator ...... priceless.
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Old Jan 11, 2004 | 12:22 AM
  #6  
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From: Maryland; USA
the aluminum one from Modine at Advance Auto parts, thats with a 180 stat i am cool in the summer and have decent heat in the winter.
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Old Jan 11, 2004 | 03:23 PM
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From: Glasgow Kentucky
Car: 04 Vette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Originally posted by MrDude_1
BeCool or Griffen...


but you can save yourself $200 or so off their "direct fit" ones my getting a GM generic one.... the hose in and out is in almost the exact same place.. only the radiator cap location is really diffrent... you just need to make 2 simple cuts to clear that... a steak knife or even sissors would work. you just need to clearance the waterneck to fit.... its plastic and cuts easily. done carefully, it can even look stock.
The generic ones will not work with TPI because the heater returns into the tank of the radiator.
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Old Jan 11, 2004 | 08:31 PM
  #8  
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From: San Jose, CA, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z - original owner!
Engine: LB9 with K&Ns, MSD, Foil, Taylor
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.45 posi
Thanks for the info on the generics not working, yep there is an extra hose that goes to the cold side tank from the heater, gotta have it.

thanks for the Rock Auto link, that Transpro copper/brass unit looks like it will work, and the price is right. No more friggin plastic-assed tanks. That radiator has auto trans cooling line hookups. Since I have the T-5, I guess I would just leave them open.
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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 07:58 AM
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by biff85ta
The generic ones will not work with TPI because the heater returns into the tank of the radiator.
take the plug out of the waterpump.

put hose in there...


athough i no longer have the stock waterpump... i donno if the factory ones have the port or not, but i would think they do.

another option would be to have a radiator shop braze/weld a bung on the tank.... but thats a lil farter then most people go... i realize most of you just want to slip it in...
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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 11:17 AM
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From: Glasgow Kentucky
Car: 04 Vette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73
On my TPI there is no way possible to get the line back to the pump or I would have since I had two radiator laying around that would have worked.
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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 12:14 PM
  #11  
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by biff85ta
On my TPI there is no way possible to get the line back to the pump or I would have since I had two radiator laying around that would have worked.

mmk.

i have a aftermarket or reman or somthing pump... i dont really know what it is, it was on the car when i bought it....

i guess if you're doing the pump and the radiator at the same time, it would be a good thing to look for... then you can save $ on the radiator, and still run the heater core.
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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 07:08 PM
  #12  
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From: Glasgow Kentucky
Car: 04 Vette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73
There is a plug in the pump where the fitting would go but just no room for the hose to get there with the way the tpi and accesories fit on my motor. The newer serpentine system it may be possible but not on mine.
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